BRAKE problems ATTN Duffy Floyd and brake men.

stocker 89

Registered User
Well I finally got to drive my car today for the first in a long time.

Back before the motor swap I was rolling down the interstate and the hose from the master cylinder resivore to accumulator motor came and I lost all of my fluid.

So I got a new hose and clamps and put it on and filled the resivore. There seems to still be a little leak where the hose attaches to the accum motor. Gonna try and clamp that down better. anyway.

MY brake pedal is ROCK HARD and I can barely stop I can stop but it is not easy. What could the problem be?

Duffy, I am getting ready to run my ABS codes for the first time ever with ye old OTC and I am wondering what to expect am I going to get a code from a rock hard brake pedal or what .Could use some of your insight . What do you think the problem is? Are there any tricks to pulling the codes could there be any false codes. What should I look for . THANKS

They were working good before my old motor blew up . Now they hardly work at all What up with that.
 
Last edited:
Had the same feeling happen to my brake pedal. I could not pull any codes at all from my car. I was using a Snap-On Scanner. I replaced to entire brake unit and now they work. Then it happened again one day suddenly. That same day, my ignition switch broke into like 3 pieces and I replaced that and it worked fine. Dunno, but that's my experience w/ these damn brakes.
 
I doubt your code reader is going to do anything for you since it is an electrical problem you have with the Pump Motor circuit.

There are a multitude of threads on ABS problems and several have links for the article I wrote on the Teves Mark II ABS system in your car. There are several commonly occuring problems which could be causing your difficulties. Look over the threads and get back to me if you don't readily solve this one.
 
Hey Joe Debattissta nice looking stang. My dad had a 69 428 SCJ back in the day.

These new cars don't even come close.

This is the first time my Antilock light has ever been on . My brake light came on when all the fluid ran out but went off when I refilled.

Now they are both on and there is fluid in it. IT is always something right when things start to look up bam it always something . I hope I don't need a whole new unit. Thanks for the info.
 
Duffy

I will do a search . I can hear my accumulator motor running . In fact I have not heard it shut off yet and the pedal might be getting softer. I will run my codes for the heck of it if I can get the cover off the connector. It has never been off before. Maybe I just need to give it more time to charge since I have not driven it for so long.
 
If the pump motor keeps running...is this even with the ignition key in the off position? If so your ABS Pump Motor relay is sticking and should be replaced. It is the brown based relay on the passenger side of the firewall in the engine compartment.
 
Duffy's article can be found at the 35th Anniversary Thunderbird registry website:

http://www.35ththunderbirdregistry.org/Tips/ABS.htm

The pump you hear is a hydraulic pump. It pressurizes the hydraulic system. For it to run more than 20 seconds there is a problem in your system.

Either the relay that energizes the pump is stuck, or for some reason the ABS system is telling it to run. I'd check the relay first.

The Accumulator's role is to store hydraulic pressure generated by the pump. This allows for faster response to sudden braking needs and decreases the number of times the hydraulic pump must cycle.

Read the article and you'll understand the system much better.
 
It runs when the key is in the on position.

If the key is off the accumulator motor is off.

Thanks again Mike8675309. Iwill read it.
 
Mike,

Thanks for posting the link. I might know a few things about the SC but inserting links on the BBS is not one of the skills I have aquired.
 
Great info Duffy.

I read in basic trouble shooting with a amber Antilock light on and a red break light on . If the motor is not working you need a new motor. however my motor is working so I need a new accumulator or I am not getting enough fluid in to the accumulator. which is possible because I do have a small leak in the the resivore to accum motor line. I am gonna go run my codes right now I will let you know if any come up...

Accumulator motor should shut off in 20 seconds. I have always wondererd about that. lights out in 4 seconds after start up. cool.
 
OK I used 2 different cartridges.

A 89 cart and a 91 cart. I found it odd that with the 89 cart you did not have to turn the ignition on but with the 91 cart you do.

89 cart registerd NO CODES across display.

91 cart registerd 000 000 across display.

So I have no codes but the the antilock and brake lights are both on. gonna work with it tomorrow fix the leak and see what happens I'll let you know . Thanks for the input everyone.
 
You're pulling these codes off the ABS connector correct? Not the EEC connector. Two seperate connectors.

The codes are listed in the article near the bottom.
 
Yeah , the connector is in the trunk. Duffy pointed that out to me in a previous post

Yeah I saw the codes . I didn't get any do you think I should have? When I pull codes from the EEC it either gives me a code or a pass 11. I have not hooked up to the ARC yet I don't seem to have any problems with the ARC the firm ride lite comes on for 4 seconds after start up then goes off when I flip the switch the firm ride lite comes on and I kind feel or hear the shocks stiffen.
 
From what I read (it only references the Ford tester) if everything is fine you should not get anything.

Just make sure you had the engine key to run and the tester connected for a good 45 seconds.

From the looks of the codes it can generate, it appears that unless there is a bad sensor, or an obvious voltage related issue to the control module, a code may not get set. IT doesn't appear that the system is monitoring pressures, so it won't know if the pump motor isn't running, or if the accumulator isn't working.
 
Ok Iseem to always have brakes but it feels like there is no power assist.

I pulled the hose from the master cylinder resivore to the accumulator and when I pulled it off no fluid came out of the metal nipple where the hose connects to the accum and motor. The master cylinder resivore is full but there don't seem to be any fluid getting up to the accum should brake fluid have came out of the accumulator when I pulled the hose???

I am guessing I have a bad accumulator because I have brakes but they don't have power. CAN I JUST TWIST THE ACCUMULATOR OFF WITHOUT CAUSING PROBLEMS??? There is a junkyard in town that says they have some accumulators and I thought I would give them a try before I buy a reman. What is the procedure for changing the accumulator ???? IT looks like you just twist it off and on with a big allen wrench.
 
If there is no hydraulic pressure, I'm not sure that fluid should be running out of there.

The accumulator just twists off, and a new one just twists on.

There are two different parts. One has a long tip on the end fitting, another has a short tip on the fitting.

A short can be used anywhere , but a long one can only be used in where a long one was.
 
DON'T JUST TWIST IT OFF!!!!!!!!!

The accumulator is under 1500 lbs of hydrolic pressure!!!! This can actually kill you if it gets into your skin!!!! You have to pump the pedal about 20 times until it is really hard. Then, twist the accumulator off. You can try the junk yard, and the Prior Reman ones are about $100.

Ford part is $185 = tax.


Good luck....

Don
 
I agree with Duffy because this happened to me. Brakes worked once, then didn't. Rock hard pedal with no power assist. My car was towed to a Ford dealer where they diagnosed a bad assist relay that burned out. Replaced the relay, everything was fine.
 
Lube 70 ( DON )

I am gonna pull the accumulator off tomorrow I am glad you gave me warning. Could you or somebody who knows tell me what to expect or be looking for ? I guess what I am wondering is should it be full of brake fluid or not ? Will I be able to see any physical damage inside of it to know for sure if it is the problem or not?

Ever since I got the engine to run. MY brake pedal has been rock hard and both the antilock and brake light are on . There are no codes. I can hear the accumulator motor running and the resivore is filled up with brake fluid and fluid level is not going down yet my red brake light is still on.

Randeeofdawoods are you talking about the brown relay on the fire wall on the passenger side.

A buddy of mine told me I was cheap for using junkyard parts . I figure hey might as well use em up if they work . I can always buy a reman should I need it.

Mike 8675309 there was no fluid coming out where the hose meets the pump motor and accumulator. There also doesn't seem to be any going into the accumulator cause the master cylinder is full and the fluid never goes down.
 
Last edited:
Well guys I went to the junkyard today.

I found a couple linclon continentals with the same part # on the accumulator as mine 90002.2 so I am guessing they would work . I also found a merker with the teves II set up except the number on top of it was 90172.2 . Gonna use the contintals.

The problem is I could not get them off but I didn't try to hard. Plus lube 70 (DON ) has got me all scared it is going to fly off a bop me in the head or rip a big hole in my hood. So got to go back monday and try to get one off a continental. Lube 70 I already got a hard pedal so I don't think it will be to big a problem reliveing pressure cause there doesn't seem to bee much.

Anybody who has done brake work on the TEVES MARK II system I could use as much advice as possible. IS there anything else I should check before I attempt to take the accumulator off? I am gonna do a search again hope to discover more info.
 
Back
Top