Super charger removal

35th T-bird SC

Registered User
I'm trying to remove the supercharger and throttle body as on unit. How do you get to all the hose and other connections that are tightly fit between the fire wall and the rear of the SC? Do I need to take this thing apart piece by piece?
 
I am not sure if there may be another way to do it, but I took all of the cowl plastic and windsheild wiper pieces out of my car and was able to remove everything as a single unit. Don't forget about the coolant line running through the bottom of the throttle body!

Scott
 
yeah...

yeah that cowl def needs to come off, and once you get that off the rest should be cake, just dont cut any of the lines etc, and dont bend any of the cables, its fairly easy, it didnt take me that long at all, just recheck everything before it comes out! good luck
 
yeah just take off the wipers, just move em up a lil and there will be a little slide you slide out and they just pop off and a few screws and ur on ur way! any more ???'s let me know
 
You guys are doing it the hard way.

Remove the belt, remove the intake tube from the TB, unplug the TPS and IAC, unbolt the throttle/TV cable positioning bracket and remove cables from TB linkage, loosen the clamp on the supercharger side of the bypass hose, remove the cross over vacuum hose, remove the SC top and upper IC tube as one part (do not loosen nut), unbolt the supercharger and pull it up and forward a few inches.

Now the hoses on the back of the plenum are easy to reach and remove. There is no need to remove wipers and cowling. When going back together do the same thing and zip tie the hoses to prevent them from leaking or falling off.

David

PS: I don't have EGR.
 
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I have an EGR (five speed) so there is more back there to worry about. I think it might be easier to remove the cowl like the guys said (with the EGR) I already removed the collar nut and IC tube.
I used a big (I mean real big water pump pliers and it worked fine, with a couple taps on the pliers with a mallet while I sqeezed the pliers)
 
You're right, if you have EGR it is best to take off the cowl because there is no room to work back there. Be sure not to damage the metal EGR pipe and don't lose the the little 7" rubber-like hose from it to the bottom of the transducer, and make sure you put that little hose on first when you're putting things back together. Ford charged me $50.CDN for that little silicone hose because nothing else works to stop detonation if its not connected or if you try some other type of hose. After having to go in there 3 times, I finally got smart and cut a slot in the bracket that holds the transducer, so I could get it off without removing the bolt. Now I can take the bracket off and use some long spark plug pliers to R&R the silicone hose if I ever need to. Good luck
 
The cowl doesn't have to come off if you have EGR. I've done motors with and without. After removing all the intake stuff inlcuding the tb(sorry, but for egr it does have to go), there is plenty of room to root your hand behind the inlet plenum and remove the 2 egr bolts(10mm hex head). As far as the vacuum hoses, I just pushed them off with a screwdriver, just make good sure you remember where they go.
 
It is not that big of a deal to remove the cowl. maybe 10 minutes.

Gives extra room with the EGR and provides easy access to the vacuum lines.

Good time to change that brake accumulator too.
 
Well, got the thing off last night, forgot about the second coolant hose to the TB went to lift the whole assembly off (plenum, TB and SC)and about threw my back out when the hose caught. Not a bad job. I took the cowl off on passenger side only and it worked great.
 
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