help guys car will not run after head swap

ricardoa1

Registered User
Well guys I finally succeed to changing the heads on the car, to the stig heads and cam. This is the second attempt, the first time the head gaskets did not seal. Well this time it works, but now I am having some problems. Here it goes.

I turn the car on and it does not find idle by it self, it proceeds to stalling, the car is super lopey but that’s not the problem. I can get idle, if I force it with the throttle and make it stay at 1000rpms for a few seconds, then it will idle. Here are the reading from the boost gauge when I play with the throttle.

When I get idle (me helping the car) the VAC is at 8, when I rev the car to 2000rpms the gauge jumps to 0 but as it comes down on the rev’s the vac hits 15 then the cars stalls.
Again the car will only idle with my help. When idling at 1000rpms the fuel pressure is at 38.
Now for the drivability problems, when I take off (put a load)the car bogs and stalls, only when I maintain high rev’s do I manage to go. At times when taking off the car coughs sputters and will not rev, as if the fuel is cutting off.

Last the car has some codes
511 which is Electronic Control Assembly problem- Read only Memory ROM test failure.
And 332 which is Insufficient EGR flow detected. This code I can explain, I blocked off the EGR tube to delete the EGR. I have not updated the chip to delete the EGR so that explains that code


The car has an Apten chip and its tuned to the mods before my heads and cam.

Help me figure out what’s wrong with this thing.
 
Did you mess with the cam sensor at all? Did you maybe miss a wire connector somewhere, or possibly mix up the injector firing order? Off the top of my head, the 3 try starting issue usually is the cam sensor if i'm thinking right. Almost sounds like you're not gettin enough fuel. When I did all my work, surprisingly enough, i got no check engine codes. It's a luck of the draw with these cars.
 
Ricardoa 1

I have a 89 sc. I had a problem with my fuel injectors and o2 sensors not being grounded. In my case I forgot to hook up the orange ground wire to the back of the driverside head. MY car would hold high rpm and sputter but not idle. You have a 94 I don't know if it has a ground wire from the eec that attaches to the back of the dirver side head just a thought.

CODE 32 . I have a egr. My old motor would start right up when I turned it on and idle. The egr would open and so heated oxygen could get in and keep it running I also had cats on .

I gutted the cats and now when I start the car and it is cold it won't idle untill it warms up. I always have code 32 insuffeent EGR flow I think it is because I have gutted cats and since there is no backpressure there is not enough heated oxygen cirulating back through the motor to help it stay running at low RPM and warm up.
 
the car goes like a bat out of hell at high rpms, but has the problem stated. I dont think its a fuel problem, its got to be electronic problem.
The only ground wire that i have is the one that is on the right hand side and connects to right motormount.
Any other suggestions. I am waiting for an email from Brian to see if he can send me a new chip with te EGR delete.
 
I am looking at the Wireing diagram for a 94-95 with supercharger

It says there are 4 ground wires from the powertrain control module # 20 BLK # 6 pink/ orange #9 blk/yellow and #7 blk/ yellow. GOOD LUCK.
 
Ricardo at what RPM are you trying to get the car to idle???..I know on most 5.0's when you cam them they wont hold a steady idle under 1000rpm's..Your not trying to get the car idleing at 500 or so are ya?
 
It won't idle with the previous chip program in it. Tony had a similar problem with his. Get a new chip.
 
Ricardo,

Dave is right...the chip needs to be reburned. It will get better from the adaptive stuff the EEC does, but may still take a couple reburns or a dyno tune to get it working right.

BTW, I've got the same vacuum and Brian had to raise my idle a couple hundred RPMs to keep it from stalling.

David
 
Ok ill keep ya posted, ANy one know where is Brian he has not Emailed me Yet he usually is pretty quick
 
Yea the David's are right. When I did the Steig heads and cam my car would not idle at all with the previous tune. Even after a dyno tune from Brian and seeing him raise the idle on the chip program it still was just as bad.
The car had like 2" of vacuum when it would idle. I fought with it for a while and the final fix was playing with the idle set screw on the throttle body and cracking it open a little more. I also had to adjust the idle control bleed screw.
The car now idles fine at about 1000 rpm in neutral and has 10" of vacuum or so.
 
Ricardo,

Brian is out of town until Wednesday evening, the soonest he can tune my car is Saturday. For some reason ever since I repaired the rocker studs and heads the car is running pig rich. I swapped to a chrome fuel rail off a 93 while I had it apart but that shouldn't matter.

Meanwhile just do like the rest of us with automatics and big cams...learn to drive with two feet.

David
 
your getting to much valve overlap with the new cam .... you need a new chip reburn to compensate for the diffrent air flow pattern your cam is making ... your old chip program wont handle the new flow your cam is giving it ..... your eec is going wackoo... and doesnt know how to responde....... burn yourself a new chip
 
creeperxr7 said:
your getting to much valve overlap with the new cam .... you need a new chip reburn to compensate for the diffrent air flow pattern your cam is making ... your old chip program wont handle the new flow your cam is giving it ..... your eec is going wackoo... and doesnt know how to responde....... burn yourself a new chip

Well something happened since then :( , so Ill hold off on that chip. Thanks for the advice
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37115
 
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