Quick engine mount question

35th T-bird SC

Registered User
Do you have to unbolt the tranny mount to jack the engine up far enough. Several instructions on the engine mount job I've seen on here have not mentioned it. I just wasn't sure if thjat would put a large strain on the flywheel housing.
 
Actually, you could probably use the tranny to an advantage somewhat. If you are raising the motor, use a hoist, and jack the tranny a little. There is about 2-4 inches from the top of the bellhousing to the firewall. Either way you go, the job is a P.I.T.A.
 
I'm stuck, how do you get the big nut off the top of the mount. I can't get a socket on it because the block is in the way so I'm using a 13/16" wrench but I have no leverage. I tried hitting the wrench with a mallet but it won't come loose. Any ideas. Oh and I did spray the nut and stud with wd-40.
 
It does not need to come off until you have the mount out of the car. Then you can remove the top nut and two bottom bolts that hold the mount to its frame.
 
I figured that part out finally, I'm done for the night. I got the throgh bolt out and the two bolts from the engine, I also have it jacked up from the pan but nothing will come out. There was an engine ground kind of low and I could not see if that was part of the mount so I took it off anyway, How high above the crossmember have you guys taken this thing because I took it about an inch above and I still can't get anything out. Also is there anymore hidden bolts. I thought there was a stud on the passenger side but I can't see anything.
 
Take the cowls off the top or you will break them when jacking the engine up. You do not need to remove the tranny mount to jack the engine up. Make sure you use a small block of wood between the jack and the oil pan. The engine will only jack up a few inches. Enough to slide the mounts out.

On the drivers' side there are 4 bolts holding the mount in. the front lower bolt has a jam nut on it holding the ground wire to the battery. Take the top nut off first, remove the wire and then the bolt. Three bolts hold the mount to the engine and the fourth to the body. You've already removed the through bolts.

On the passenger side there are three bolts - two front, one rear holding the mount to the engine. The lower bolt has a double nut - take the top nut off first, remove the wires and then remove the bolt.

When you have the mount free, turn it so you can remove the two smaller bolts on the bottom of the mount, the mount can now come apart and be removed in two pieces. Reinstall in two pieces with the new mount bolted to the top bracket.

Good luck

Mark
'93 SC
 
Just completed this job. If you think the top nut is hard taking off while in place, try forgetting to tighten in until after you have reinstalled. :D

I removed the passenger side by removing the knock sensor, the bolt behind the knock sensor (incredibly tight on mine much more than mount bolts), and its shield. Then I had to remove the starter to let the mount slip in one piece. Even then, it did not clear the exhaust manifold and needed force applied to remove. It could probably be removed from the front by removing the A/C accessory bracket.

The drivers side came out from the front, as I removed the accessory bracket from this side. It was fairly straight forward requiring little if any force.

I jacked the engine at first without loosening the transmission mount bolt. This allowed a couple inches, but an inspection of the bolt made me worry about braking something. I simply loosened it, as I was changing the hydralic trans mount anyway. Once that was loose, and both mounts' bolts were loose, I jacked the engine up to the point where the back aluminum tubing was half an inch from the cowl.

I found the job overall simpler than it seemed, requiring mostly extended effort rather than having high complexity.

I grinded rust from my brackets, painted them, installed the mounts in them, and reinserted them in once peice. I did one side at a time to try and prevent bolt hole misalignment. Even then, however, I found it necessary to keep bolts loose for jack raising. This caused slight misalignment which I cured after installing both by tightening one side, lowering, and aligning remaining holes.

I will soon be posting a follow up to my motor mounts post from a little while back.. after my last tasks on the car are complete.
 
O.K. I think what I did was not realize the nut holding the grounds was a bolt I thought is was just a stud I could slide the bracket over. Probably because of 13 years of road grime its hard to see. Also the "extra" bolt on the drivers side that goes to the frame won't come out. It's loose but just free spins. There seems to be some on the threads that feels round (not a hex nut) that keeps it from spinning out. This is my biggest problem I almost feel like I want to break it to get it out. There is not enough room under the frame to get a vice grips to hold whatever is attached to this bolt. Anyone had this? Oh, and thanks for the help so far. And I already had my cowl off because my heads are currently removed and at the machine shop so I have a lot of room compared to others
 
Yep, happened to me. I had to go to town with a grinder to get it off. Didn't bother to put it back on either. Seemed pointless. I figured if it wasn't on the pass side, why should the drivers side need one? Car rides fine without it. Just break it off.
 
Turns out it was some kind of round disc with threads in the middle attached to the drivers side frame bolt. I got it by sticking an allen wrench in the little hole right beside the bolt head and it will catch the disc and hold it to unsrew the bolt. I guess Ford drilled the two little holes there for a special tool to stick in there and hold it. Anyway I got the mounts off and just got done switching over the brackets. Will install tomorrow.
 
Well I just got them in. Not to bad of a job, just time consuming. The only thing left is the plastic clip that snaps on the passenger side ground bolt. What does it clip on to? I can't see where it went. It was already unhooked when I took it off.
 
Plastic Clip

If is the clip that goes over the stud on top of the wire lugs then I would not worry about it. It is just to hold the wire lugs over the studs while the car is rolling down the assy line. One drone puts the harness in place and some other drone puts the nut on later, the clip makes sure they don't come off before the second drone puts the nut on cause he would not notice other wise.

Just my opinion, If you find it will hold the wire for you while you look for the not. Might also keep thom from trying to twist around as you tighten them. I would not spend alot of effort tring to find it though.

Sean
 
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