Idle drop problem

D

derekhay316

Registered User
K i've read a couple other posts on this and haven't really figgered out my problem. Here's what I have: sometimes when I pull up to a stop light and press the clutch the car will drop rpms down to about 400-500 and then jump back up to 700 rpms and stay like that. At 700 it'll hop a bit +-30 rpms. Also at idle (700) the car seems really rough, the motor shakes from side to side more than usual, but when i rev up to about 1000 its perfectly smooth. I've changed all plugs and wires, motor mounts, cam + crank sensors. Thanks for your help.
 
When it idles really rough or stubly like that can u smell gas in your exhaust like more then normal.
If u do it could be a sign that your O2 sensors are on their way out.
 
No i don't believe so. I've replaced the drivers side one in the last year and its giving out no codes. I've also replaced the harmonic balancer in the last year, could it be that that isn't put in right?
 
Sounds like it is breifly going into "limp home mode",
I had a bad DIS module do something similar with a strong smell of fuel. Replaced it and it quit doing that. Never did get any codes from it. Kinda of a spendy part to try if your not sure though. Find someone close with an extra that you can try out for a day or two and rule that out....
 
if the battery was unhooked lately mine took 3 days doing that till it learned to idle right again
 
Just replaced fuel + air filter. Haven't unhooked battery in about 3 months. I guess i'll try cleanin the maf. Would carb cleaner work?
 
That is what I used. Make sure it dries good before you put it back on. DON'T use a toothbrush or something to scrub it as you will break the TINY wires inside there.
 
may this as well

Something you can check...Check the Belt tensioner assembly

sometimes when they are going bad they'll slow down the drive

belts and the idle goes low.
 
Yah I'm thinkin somethings up with my belts. I forgot to mention that when cold the car will squeel for about 1 second when I start it up. What should I check for?
 
When i shut it off it just sounds like a bunch of air is being released. Has done that for a while. Also how would I check for vacuum leaks? WOuld i just pour soap on all the joints and see if it bubbles? Thanks.
 
can of either will rule out vaccum leaks. just spray it around where u see hoses and if ur engine jumps up rpms then thats where the leak is. im dealin with the same problem basically cept mines an automatic. i heard the IAC could cause the problem so thats what im buyin next....lemme know how it goes
 
i had kind of the same problem and come to find out my upper IC tube nut was a bit lose tightened it up and problem solved.
 
I think your on the right track about vacume or pressure leaks.

My 95 did what you are saying due to a cracked vacume line in rear of engine. Sometimes dieing. Also it controlled my boost as it did not accelerate proper and I lost a few psi at high rpm.

I would just get a set of tbird88 seals, which are reusable. Click on Texas Thunderbirds add above. Wynn makes good seals and on every SC we put them the boost went up and you could tell the added power and drivability. We did this after both teflon stock seals, and the high temp goupe were used. Those seals are great.

I lean toward vacume hosses old and cracked, though I would seal IC tubes as well. Also top on SC can leak.
 
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