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johnwartjr
11-30-2003, 02:34 PM
I'm looking at the auto parts store style, not one of the fancy griffin style radiators. Can't afford to put a ton into the car this close to christmas.

My SC has a leak somewhere, and I'm pulling it and plan to take it to be tested tomorrow. Can't determine whether it's the lower plastic tank, or a core, or what. It's leaking in the lower passenger area, but it's not the petc*ck. If it's the core or somewhere they can repair, I'll repair it and maybe hold off for one of the higher dollar solutions later.

The local auto parts stores show 2 possible radiators, and the only differentiation is with or without bracket, and the stores don't know what the bracket is or does. I don't know if maybe it's because the earlier years mounted straight to the core support, and the 94 and up have the rubber "floaters" the whole radiator rides in, or something else..

The one without bracket is in the $175 range, with bracket is $275 at AutoZone, $215 at Advance Auto parts.

Any idea what the bracket does, and if I need it? I own a 95 SC Auto.

Thanks!

--john

MIKE 38sc
11-30-2003, 02:41 PM
The bracket they are reffering to is for the rubber IC boot and is the SC radiator. The one they are showing without the bracket is for the reg NA 3.8 TBirds and will not work on the SC.
Hope this helps you.:)

johnwartjr
11-30-2003, 02:48 PM
Thanks Mike. It appears to be rather straightforward to pull the radiator out of this thing with just hand tools, anything to watch out for when I remove it?

johnwartjr
11-30-2003, 02:59 PM
Also, both places are selling the same radiators, and I was mistaken, it's a radiator for the lower price, and then listed as "without bracket" for about 50 bucks more

With the bracket is P/N 432400, which is the same P/N as a regular v6 T-bird, the one listed as "without bracket" is P/N 432613, and that # doesn't appear when you search for a regular V6 bird radiator, which leads me to believe the 432613 is the correct SC radiator.. autozone and advance swear that both radiators will fit the car and work correctly....

MIKE 38sc
11-30-2003, 03:05 PM
No not really, its one of the easier jobs to do on this car.
Just remove the 2 bolts on top of the IC that holds it to the rubber boot, then push the boot straight down to disengage the bottom clips from the IC. Drain your coolant remove the 2 tranny lines from the bottom tank if your car is an automatic and the 2 rad hoses. Now remove the 2 bolts that hold the rad to the rad support and lift it out. Be carefull as you lift it out and make sure the rubber IC boot does'nt hang up on things while coming out.
Make sure they get you a rad for an auto tranny if thats what yours is because theres a tranny cooler built into the lower tank that is not on the 5 speed model.

johnwartjr
11-30-2003, 03:07 PM
Appreciate all the advice. I'm finding all kinds of conflicting stuff on the WWW re: this. Some are saying $400 is the correct price for the radiator for the SC, while the local auto parts stores are quoting in the $200 range. Does $215 sound too low?

MIKE 38sc
11-30-2003, 03:11 PM
Originally posted by johnwartjr
Also, both places are selling the same radiators, and I was mistaken, it's a radiator for the lower price, and then listed as "without bracket" for about 50 bucks more

With the bracket is P/N 432400, which is the same P/N as a regular v6 T-bird, the one listed as "without bracket" is P/N 432613, and that # doesn't appear when you search for a regular V6 bird radiator, which leads me to believe the 432613 is the correct SC radiator.. autozone and advance swear that both radiators will fit the car and work correctly....

Yeah theres something screwy with there book. All of the thin stock replacement rads I've seen for the SC cost right around $300. Theres really only 2 different rads for the SC. One for auto tranny and one for 5 speed. I dont know of any that are offered without the bracket for the SC and I've done a mountain of research on the subject. I build custom rads for the SC.

MIKE 38sc
11-30-2003, 03:15 PM
Originally posted by johnwartjr
Appreciate all the advice. I'm finding all kinds of conflicting stuff on the WWW re: this. Some are saying $400 is the correct price for the radiator for the SC, while the local auto parts stores are quoting in the $200 range. Does $215 sound too low?
Yes that's too low, I bet thats a NA TBird rad. Since you dont want to pop for an Aluminum rad try www.radiatorexpress.com
some of the guy's have bought there rads from them and have been very happy with them.

MIKE 38sc
11-30-2003, 03:22 PM
Well John I just went to there site and even they are listing it without the brackets now for $169.00. Maybe you can remove the bracket from the 95 model and install them on the new rad core, I dont know thats a new one on me.
I know just a month ago they were listing it for $279.00 with the brackets and there was no option to get it without them.
Now you have my curiosity up.

johnwartjr
11-30-2003, 03:40 PM
well, my biggest hope is this is something the rad shop can patch to get me through the holidays, as I'd like to have one of the aluminum radiators, but don't have the $$ to buy one so close to the holidays.

If I have to buy one, the $169 where you move the bracket doesn't sound too bad, but I'm prepared to spend a bit more if I have to.

I'll post back with more information as soon as I have some :)

MIKE 38sc
11-30-2003, 04:05 PM
Good luck John. I hope you get things worked out.:)

cougarsc
11-30-2003, 06:13 PM
Here are a couple new ones on Ebay $139

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33602&item=2445016531

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33602&item=2445433068

Digitalchaos
11-30-2003, 06:46 PM
A couple years ago I was searching for a new radiator and came across what was to me at the time a fairly suprising solution. I simply went to the local radiator shop and had them look up the car. The peticular one I went to found a radiator by CSF, cooling systems & flexibles. It had metal tanks & a lifetime warranty, for about 150 dollars. It did not include the bracket to support your intercooler boot, but you have that already.

They have a website, but it is not consumer oriented. Check out your local radiator shop & see what they can come up with! Much better than buying another plastic one from Ford for $400.00.

Good luck :)

johnwartjr
11-30-2003, 07:07 PM
Originally posted by cougarsc
Here are a couple new ones on Ebay $139

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33602&item=2445016531

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33602&item=2445433068


Thanks, will 89-93 fit my 95?

MIKE 38sc
11-30-2003, 09:05 PM
Maybe the best thing to do would be call Radiator Express and ask them about the rad because at that price it has to be the one without the frame.
The only difference I've run into between the 89-93 and the 94-95 is the drivers side mounting hole is 3/4" closer to the drivers side fender than on the 89-93.
The other difference is the overflow nipple on the fillerneck is pointed towards the driver side fender on the 94-95 and its pointed to the pass fender on the 89-93 model.
If you can reuse your bracket it should work.
I make the brackets to fit all years on my rads so you can put them in any model SC.

johnwartjr
12-01-2003, 10:40 PM
Local radiator shop put my rad in the dunk tank today, and it shoots out a ton of air out of the top plastic tank where it crimps on, and they said it's not repairable.

So, I ordered a new one through them, guaranteed for 12 months, about 220 bucks, it'll be in tomorrow before noon and I plan on installing tomorrow afternoon.

They called their supplier and made sure it'll work in a SC, and is the SC specific radiator, and the supplier is sure. I haven't paid yet, so they better get it right :)

My brother in law works there, and I think that may have helped me get a little better deal, but I'm not sure.

There are half a dozen screws on the drivers side of the rad that hold it into the bracketry, do I need to coat those screws with anything when I run them into the new rad? I know when I did a water pump on my S-10, I had to coat any threads that went through the water jacket, not sure if I need to coat these or not...

Also, can anyone recommend a good shop manual? Is the ford original the best way to go here?

NJTBIRD89
12-01-2003, 11:29 PM
RadiatorExpress.com

would have given you the original SC radiator for a little less and

back it with a lifetime warranty...

their shipping is great one day turn around if ordered in the morning...

Visteron is the original radiator of the Ford Tbird SC

MIKE 38sc
12-02-2003, 12:03 PM
Well John it sounds like the brackets are removeable on the late model rads. The aftermarket fella's must think you can do that with the early models as well since most places are now only offering a rad without the brackets...Hmmmm......:confused:

gldiii
12-02-2003, 01:41 PM
If your new replacement rad is a brass one, I don't believe it will have provisions for the screws no matter how you coat them! LOL I believe the early rads have the frame soldered on while the later ones have it screwed on the plastic tanks. It might be possible to solder your late model screw on bracket onto the early style brass tank, but I have not explored that possibility.

007_SuperCoupe
12-02-2003, 02:04 PM
I may chime in a little late on this one, but I've done this. The rad on my SC was the FIRST thing that I replaced. It was cracked and leaking when I bought it. I too could not afford the griffin so I looked elsewhere. I was actually looking for a good used one for the time being and found a brand new one through a local salvage yard. It cost a whole $165. It did not come with the bracket for the IC. But it did have the ability to mount the bracket to it. The mounting bolts were in different locations, so I had to drill holes in the bracket once I got it off the old radiator. Bolted right down and haven't had any issues at all. I can find out who manufacturers that rad if you want.

I didn't need to weld or solder anything as the mounts for the bracket were already there. My rad is for an auto, but they are also available for the 5-speed if you want. Let me know and I'll get the manufacturer data for you.

johnwartjr
12-03-2003, 06:06 PM
actually, my new rad is 100% brass - even the tanks

and the screws went right into the tank, when I picked it up the rad shop had moved the rad to the old bracket and everything

dropped right in, doesn't leak, works well. Made by some company in India

johnwartjr
07-04-2010, 03:21 PM
And, 6.5 years later, and 1 repair later, the radiator has failed again.

The first failure of the new radiator was on the upper tank, near the upper hose. The shop that I purchased it from actually took the radiator completely apart, cleaned everything, and rewelded the upper tank. Paid ~$100 for the repair.

And now, a few years later, it has come apart in the same spot. I noticed it while removing the radiator fan to replace the motor. The motor was getting kinda noisy and didn't spin freely, so I ordered a new one.

So, I'm going to go over to AutoZone and order one with their limited lifetime warranty I think. I've got some other maintenance goodies here that I'd planned to put on this fall. Along with the motor, I ordered all new hoses, a new water pump, new heater core, new belts etc. I'd do it all now, but I was dripping wet after changing just the motor. I think it can wait til fall at this point - unless the heater core starts gushing. It's got a small leak now.

Any chance that multiple radiator failures in ~6 years might indicate something else is wrong? The car runs strong, doesn't have any other real issues, other than occasional things wearing out because it's 15 years old...

gr8ghost
07-04-2010, 04:55 PM
Small leaks in the head gasket caused first the petcock to blow out of my radiator then some time later the top tank to separate from the core. I bought my 95 in 2002 OR 3. The head gasket leaked from day 1. I put 15,000 mi on it before pulling the motor last April. It ran fairly strong when it was tuned.

KMT
07-04-2010, 09:47 PM
And, 6.5 years later, and 1 repair later, the radiator has failed again.

Any chance that multiple radiator failures in ~6 years might indicate something else is wrong? The car runs strong, doesn't have any other real issues, other than occasional things wearing out because it's 15 years old...

Do you know to pressure test the system after it's back together and run up to temp?