removing lower i/c line

tadmichael22

Registered User
Okay new question. I am trying to remove my lower line to the ic.
In order for me to do that you have to remove the nuts on both ends. then you have to remove the stud in the power steering bracket. In my manual they say to take out the p/s bolts and move it out in order to remove the i/c live from underneath. In order to do that you have to have the SPECIAL pulley removal tool to get to the nuts. I dont have one so my question is; IS THERE ANY WAY TO REMOVE THE LOWER I/C TUBE WITHOUT REMOVING THE POWER STEERING PUMP? PLEASE HELP!!!
Tad
 
The guys who write these manuals must be stuck in a rectal-cranial loop if you know what I mean. There is an easier way to do it. Basically instead of removing the PS pump, just move that whole accessory bracket forwards. If I remember correctly, this requires removing two bolts, one nut, and the two smaller nuts on the water pump. (And yes it is possible to reach that nut behind the brace, you will need a universal swivel and a deep socket.)

Leave the stud in place and then you can slide the bracket forward a couple inches, which is enough clearance to pull the IC tube up and out.
 
Exactly what Rob said. I removed the acc bracket, moved it foward sitting in place where the Intercooler was (or maybe is?), and removed the tube. Of course this requires either belt removal or removing the tenstion and sliding it with the bracket. It is simpler than it sounds. I also got to the hard to reach bolts with a knuckle/swivel joint and a couple extensions. Bag the bolts and save them for later. Remove the IC tube nuts, bag them seperately, and it should come right out the top between body and engine. I resealed with Copper RTV, TBird88 also makes reusable teflon gaskets.
 
Okay, I just tried what you guys said, but I'm having a problem. One of the bolts going into the head is awefully tight. I am scared to death to crank on it too hard and break it off in the head. NOW WHAT DO I DO???????
Tad
 
Crank on it hard :D . I just recently changed motor mounts and had this worry with about every bolt; they were all incredibly tight. I believe the bolts going into the head are actually studs, and you are removing a nut.

You could try some penetrating oil if you want, but unless you see rust I wouldnt worry about it. Just make sure you are using the correct size socket with no slack; try a 12 point shallow well. Only use a deep well when you must, in my experience they round bolt heads easier.
 
The top one looks to me like a bolt and the lower one a nut.
Tomorrow I will give her another shot!! And pray nothing breaks!!
Thanks, Tad
 
Thanks guys! I took your advise and just cranked on it harder and it did come loose. Not without me almost having a nervous breakdown trying though! LOL!
Thanks again, Tad
 
Thats what I thought, because of larger surface area contact right?

But I was told that in fact the double gripping of each corner by a 12 point was better than the larger contact area on the sides of a bolt/nut of a 6 point, due to the fact that the corners are what the pressure is actually applied to anyway.

I would definately like to know one way or the other..


tadmichael22, glad you were able to remove it. I had the same concern that you did, but found out it was fine.

Now, if any chance you are replacing something major like motor mounts, and your rad is stock, change it out so it doesnt brake a few days later in the cold & at the same time you open the oil cap to find a white substance at the bottom most likely from steam vapor & think its a combustion leak from bad head gaskets. :D Don't ask. lol
 
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