Is the Camshaft Sensor Easy to Change?

SC-71 TBIRD

Registered User
Hello All,

Well, in the postings on the topic of the camshaft sensor some people claimed that the sensor was easy to replace. But my research tell me otherwise, it's not all that easy which was proclaimed. The reference I used was the Chilton Manual and it states that the coil pack has to be removed and a special tool is needed to mount the new sensor correctly. If done wrong I can damage the engine. I am not a big fan of Chilton manuals and alot of the time I fine the information in the manual sometimes misleading. Can someone tell me the step by step in removing the sensor? If someone has pics that would be even better.
Thanks;)
 
It's an easy part to swap out is the point. It's a little buried, but much easier than the Crank sensor.

The main issue is proper positioning of the sensor. You can do this visually if you don't have the tool. The tool can be rented from parts stores like AutoZone.

Here is a thread where they have pictures of setting the sensor without the tool.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34530&highlight=align+cam+sensor
 
Last edited:
do not remove the syncronizer assembly , just remove the sensor from the assembly, it's a 5 minute job. it only goes on one way. I removed the main serpentine belt because it was kinda in the way of getting my hand in there. If you remove the whole cam syncronizer assembly then you have to make sure it's reinstalled in exactly the right position but you don't have to remove it just to change the sensor.
 
Hmmmm.....thats what I thought. I have neber had mine quit.....after 290k. I have a spare motor and I thought I would check out what this so-called cam sensor was all about. I took the one off my parts motor.....there is nothing to it unless you start messing with the timing setting (similar to how you would time a distributor). Undo the two small retaining bolts on top and pull the sensor off, thats it.
 
I have just taken a look today to find the cam sensor on the engine. I have noted that it's located in a fairly easy to reach place even though I have to remove the serpentine belt, some connectors, and maybe the DIS module or the connector to it. What I don't understand is why the Manual stated that the engine must be at 26 degrees TDC and a special tool is needed, bah, bah, bah, if all I have to do is just simply remove the 2 retaining screws and connector from the sensor, then replace the old with the new. Is it possible kevenj90sc to accidently move the synccronizer out of place while removing the sensor? I am a little leary about the issue.
:confused:
 
I have the original Ford Manual and the haynes manual. My haynes manual states the same thing that your Chilton's does: Set the engine to 26 degrees before TDC number one cylinder. My Ford Manual states: If you are just replacing the cam sensor skip to step ? (which means that they tell you to skip over the steps that have you do the engine alignment) and install cam sensor with two scres. I had the check engine light go off and ran codes for a 214 (Cylinder Identification Fault). Went on this board and found out about bad cam sensor. Bought new cam sensor. Installed said sensor WITHOUT removing ANYTHING and reset my codes. No more check engine light. Fixed.
 
Ok, I will check it out. You must have small hands Mike because its a little tight where the sensor is located.:) My hands are quite big so I might have to remove some stuff to get at the sensor. So I'm off to replace it.:D
 
I don't think I have THAT small of hands, but I might be wrong. If I do recall correctly, my ratchet set would reach in there for the two screw with a little help from a universal joint. And when they were almost out, a little magnet extension helped (just in case they decided to drop to who-knows-where in the engine). Pulling the sensor off, I used a couple of fingers (because you are right, you can't get your whole hand in there) to pull the old sensor off. Then (make sure you read this part) MAKE SURE THAT ONLY ONE SEAL IS IN THE NEW SENSOR/CONNECTOR when you go to install the connector! I made the mistake of not checking and it took me 30 minutes to figure out that I was trying to push the connector (with the old seal still in it) onto the new sensor (with a new seal in it) why it wouldn't go on. I guess it was a simple mistake, but take it from me, the connector won't go on with two seals!:D By the way, if you stick a little masking tape inside the socket, it will hold the screws in place until you get them started so you won't drop them (if you don't have a magnet). Good luck.
 
SC-71, the 26 degrees and all that is only important if you remove the entire cam synchronizer assembly, which is the part that goes where a distributor would normally go. The cam sensor attatches to the syncronizer and there is no need or reason to remove the whole thing from the engine. Simply remove the 2 screws that attatch the sensor to this assembly, and do not loosen the hold down bracket which would allow the synchronizer to move .....it's exactly like a distributor hold down. I removed the serpentine belt to change my cam sensor, i dont know if you have to but it makes it much easier. I did the whole job in 5 minutes.
 
Normally don't need a synchro tool

Gents... the cam sensor comes off with 2 tiny 5.5 - 6 mm bolts. Then you just bolt on the new one. Not special tool required.
Just be sure to take the SC pulley belt off, and stuff paper towels under the sensor to catch the bolts when you drop one of them so that they don't get lost. 15 minutes.

The synchro tool is only needed if you mave moved the base housing which you can't easily do anyway. It has a tamper-resistant TorX bolt holding it down.
 
Well I had changed the sensor this afternoon with little problems and the car worked fine after the install. I have to say that the Clinton manual is still garbage in my book because it is so misleading and or inaccurate information. Listening to you guys really helped simplify things. My next project is the EGR. I am not really looking forward to that.:( Thanks Again...:)
 
chilton books are crap for every car, not just ours , so don't feel bad ! I've ordered the factory manual from Helm for every car i've owned since i found out about Helm. Sometimes the information is over my head but at least it's accurate!
 
I had the same confusion

when I changed my cam sensor. I have both Haynes and Ford Factory manuals and they both said similar things to the Chilton book. Guess no one thought that the "electronic" part of this assembly would need to be changed without doing the whole thing.

Definitely some information to post in the "Before you tear the whole thing apart" section of the board.:D
 
Back
Top