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View Full Version : Too many questions,Too few answers HELP



Greg Coleman
12-07-2003, 01:00 PM
My 89 XR7 has most every bolt on, Magnaport 2, 85mm throtlebody,76mm C&L Maf,3 1/2 air intake,9 inch cone with Mag. pow. cold air divid,raised top, 1.73 rollers,front mount intercoller,mag.powers inlet plenum,42LB injectors,255 LPH forced induction fuel pump,kooks coated headers,true duel stainless exhaust with X pipe and 2 Borla 40665 muflers and EEC tunner,10% jackshaft pully and a quick change pully set up with a 3 1/2% and 7% and 10%.(and god knows if I forgot anything else) But it is time to get the Stiegemeier heads and a cam and refresh the bottom end!
Question 1:What type of headgaskets to get? I had felpro last time and they lasted 24,000 kilometers.Should I go with the multi layered 4.2's?
Question 2:The old cam question,what lift and duration?The car isn't an every day driver and I dont mind a lumpy cam but I still want to drive it around the streets and at the track.So i figure around 550 lift or maybe a bit more.Duration?I want to pull hard all the way up to5300 to 5500 rpm before she dies off!
The bottom end:I think I want all new better bearings (Clevete maybe?)obviously and stronger oil pump.How about a stud girdle and a windege tray?I have so many questions unanswered but I want this engine to be strong!Any sugestions would be helpful thank you.:D

silversc90
12-07-2003, 01:59 PM
on the gasket question, why not o-ring the heads or if the motor is out o-ring the block. i believe felpro has a gasket.

mn12sc35th
12-07-2003, 02:14 PM
Check www.moranav6racing.com or www.coymiller.com for bottom end stuff (including windage tray/stud girdles). I would talk to Tom at morana about cams too, he seems pretty knowledgable and offers 5 or 6 grinds up to .542 lift. I would definately see about o-ringing and get some head studs.

Greg Coleman
12-07-2003, 05:36 PM
I forgot to mention that I have the ARP head studs,but O-ring the block I'll definnitly look into.Thanks.Also how about a balance and blue print?:D

Kurt K
12-07-2003, 07:10 PM
Most of the high power guys are running the multi-layer gaskets and some of them actually tried the o-ring route only to switch to the multi-layer gaskets! Go with the multi-layer gaskets, you won't be disappointed. Just make sure you have the block deck machined.

{edit to fix typos}

David Neibert
12-07-2003, 07:34 PM
Greg,

Like Kurt said..the 4.2 multi-layered gaskets are in many of the fastest cars, they work great if you have a smooth deck on the heads and block. I would also suggest the Stegimeier head and cam package. He sells some nice Scorpion 1.73 roller rockers too.

His big lift/duration cam is almost identicial to mine and the car will have a pretty good lope and only about 10 inches of vacuum at idle. A custom chip from Apten is also going to be required.

I'm certianly not an expert on engines but I don't think the girdle is necessary. The main bearing caps on this engine are huge. Make sure to get some APR studs for the mains.

You can get the pistons and rods from several places, BTM had a group buy going on a little while back.

David

Greg Coleman
12-08-2003, 07:38 PM
Are my roller rockers that I got from the SCPI ok to use 1.73's ? I think I'll forget about the girdle and I think the multi-layered gaskets may be the way to go. I'd really like Dr. Fred to do the cam and a new file but i think his job has got the better of him right now.I sure hope he gets back into it again or my tunner for almost $600.00 canadian will be no god unless somone knows of anyone else that can make a file???

David Neibert
12-08-2003, 09:57 PM
Greg,

Yes those rockers will work with the Stegimeier heads. Not trying to take any business from Fred, but Apten (AKA Brian Herron) can also write files for your tuner.

David

Greg Coleman
12-09-2003, 06:32 AM
Thats good to know,thanks.At this point all I care about is getting it all together by the end of Febuary and building it, and of course it wont run properly without a good file!:D

Bill McNeil
12-09-2003, 10:26 PM
Greg,

There are two different routes you can take here, both resulting in relatively the same power production, but the durability will certainly be different.

Option 1: Keep your stock pistons, rods and rockers, have the block decked, and replace all the bearings in the entire engine. Buy the Stegimeier heads (with better springs, retainers, pushrods, etc), buy a cam to match (I would hope they have some options available in that area), and bolt everything down with your ARP fastners, with 4.2L MLS gaskets, and a quick coat of copper spray, for added measure. This will allow you to make the power you want, spend less money now, and experience less of a ~~~~ getting this done for spring. XR7 Dave is a testiment to the success this route can bring you, without spending major dollars.

Option 2: Go hog wild! Get the entire motor built up with H beam rods, Ross pistons, balanced and blue printed, with no expense spared, and a flexible timeline (this kinda stuff always gets delayed, not matter who you deal with). Keeping in mind, this is without stroking and a billet crank, which would certainly create another category. Do everything in option 1, but do the bottom end and prepare to spend quite a bit more money, with no gains in HP, but definite gains in reliability and longevity.

If you leave too many options open, you will never chose one. Decide what direction you are headed, pick and choose the things you KNOW you want, and get the ball rolling. This stuff takes time to orchestrate, and you don't have a lot of time if you want to be driving it this spring.

Call me if you wanna chat about it. ;)