Steam or Smoke from dipstick tube upon throttle?

Digitalchaos

Registered User
Tightening a radiator hose earlier I noticed when I applied throttle to the engine from the TB steam shot from the dipstick tube. I removed the dipstick and tried again, same thing.

Is this due to a cold temperature and the SC engines natural pressure in the crank case from being SC'd, or something else?
 
There is no coolant or oil into the exhaust stream however; this was checked thoroughly.

It is to my understanding that these engines naturally have a certain amount of pressure from combustion in the crankcase. Is this true, and might this be what I am seeing?

Edit: After seeing This thread and knowing the problems I am having with my oil pressure gauge.. I wonder if these things are a possibility... Need more input.
 
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Hello

Hello,
I am having many of the same problems. I am getting oil and steam from the dipstick tube. I also have what seems like abnormal pressure when the oil cap is on. I have one or many places that may be leaking oil. I cannot seem to find where I am leaking oil from. I have what sounds like lifter noise. I also have been getting blue/gray smoke out of the exhaust.
I will be swapping an engine as soon as I can find one.
When I pull this engine and take it apart I will not be shocked to see that things are broken inside.
Laterz,
D Rainer
 
Ok, upon further diagnosis I noticed the following.

The car was warmed up, and slight vapor occured at higher revs (no engine load) from the dipstick tube and the oil cap, with both open.

After investigating this for about 5 minutes, we recapped the oil/tube & let it sit running. Fan came on engine cooled. Engine warmed again, we reopened oil/tube. This time, vapor only came out when the fan was engauged!! This was confirmed at various engine temps, letting the fan turn on by itself and enguaging it manually! I have absolutely no explanation for this phenomenon.

After reclosing both oil & dipstick, we shut the car off. Turned it back on a bit later ( 5minutes?) and let it warm back up to half way. Rechecked under the same conditions, and there was NO vapor. Let it run 10 minutes, still no vapor.

Something else; upon heavy throttle/boost quick revving(low gear) under load with the dipstick tube partially removed, there is slight oil emission.

I am installing a Motorcraft PCV later today to eliminate the newer aftermarket unit from Autozone as a possible cause.

I could really use some help here.. lol.

This and the oil pressure sensor thread; I believe they could be related.
 
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The only thing I can think of is when the fan kicks on, the alternator is put under a greater load also putting more of a load on the engine. The load causing blow by. What kind of shape is your PCV in. Been replaced in a while? Also the MAP sensor? The alternator can definently be hard to turn when you demand the amperage a fan demands though.
 
You NEED to do a couple of things. First put a real gauge on the oil pressure. This will tell you if you are having a problem with that. An oil pump either works or it doesn't.

You should do a compression test on ALL of the cylinders. Start with pass side middle and rear, since they are the ones that usually go.

It could be blow-by this is caused by the condition of the rings. Change your PCV valve in the pass side valve cover. it may be plugged.

Jeff
 
Thanks for the responses.

The PCV is an aftermarket unit I bought from Autozone some months ago. I ordered a new Motorcraft from Ford Friday, will install Monday. A part number for this if anyone has one on hand would let me confirm its the right unit.

As for the alternator, there is definately a noticeable electrical drop with the fan, and at higher RPMs there is an abvious increase. However I have never heard of the pulley resistance increasing with electrical load. If that happens, it seems to be a logical possibility from the symptoms.

As for oil pressure, I can see oil moving along the side (in that channel next to the valves) under the oil cap when the gauge is dropped & the light is on. Therefore there must be at least some pressure. Unfortunately I just completed motor mounts so with the engine back together a compression and oil check is delayed until warmer weather.

The engine runs as normal, except for what seems to be a slightly lower idle (600?) after it warms, which has occured since the motor mounts.
 
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