Take quick peak at your brake M/C

B

BobGPz

Registered User
Could someone with a 1990 SC take a quick look under the hood of their SC and on the drivers side and verify if I have my 3 brake lines on correctly? Please...I attach pic below:
I lost labels as brake fluid made them all fall off and need to know if I have these lines on correct as I cannot get any pressure or fluid to the rears.

#1 in pic goes to the right side of the master cylinder.
#2 goes to the TOP left of the master cylinder.
And if the line coming out of the firewall goes to the BOTTOM left.

I am thinking I possibly mixed up #2 line and the BOTTOM line as they are the same size diameter threads. :confused: I can attach pic of top if anyone needs...Thanks all..
 

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Here's one of the top where lines connect to the Master cylinder:
BTW: "F/W" means to the firewall....:D
 
Yes:)

I took this photo of my lines. You can see the copper/Brass color one is on the bottom and the galvanized one is on the top.

I fixed it.
 

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Upside down..LOL:D
That second one helps. Thank you. At least I know I got my lines on correct, as the top two are different sizes and can't mix them up. Still can't figure why they will not pump up in the rear. Has lots of fluid in reservoir. I did take off ABS system and accumulator and dumped all the brake fluid out. Maybe just takes a bunch of bleeding I am guessing. Rock hard pedal with no stopping power at all.

Wezar, If your ever down here in Vancouver (by Portland, Oregon) will have to take the SC's to Portland International Raceway for some Friday night drags or something. Seems as there are a lot of SC's up by seattle area. They have weekly 1/4 mile racing here to keep the kids off the street. I've yet to get an official time on my SC. Thanks again for the pic...
 
I have not gotten into my brakes yet. I would imagine if the pump is running you just have to keep bleeding them until the air is cleared out. Make sure you check the fluid in the reservoir often.

I have family in the Portland area so maybe next summer I can get down your way. I remember going to the 64 funny car show at PIR in the 70's. lots of fun. I have never ran on a drag strip so I would have a lot to learn.
 
Gone through two 32ounce bottles of brake fluid with the key ON and still no pressure in the rears...:(
Guess I keep at it then. At least I know the fluid is clean! There's got to be some trick other than the key on thing. Anybody NOT recommend the "One Man Handpump Bleeder Tool" that you buy at the parts store? Or having someone in the drivers seat hitting the brakes better?

Yeah Wezar, look me up. We got some cool rides down at PIR, and some fun roads nearby, but most of the big budget guys with top fuel and funny cars go to Woodburn known for the Woodburn Nationals, which is about 40 minutes drive south of Portland. My friend used to race his 460 Big Block Celica at PIR (Portland) until he traded it for a motor for his 60's Nova. We also used to go down to a dead end road known for drag racing and practice launches and racing with about ten of us. That Toyota was a sight!... Wish the SCCOW would make a meet down here or Portland sometime.
Well back to those brakes...
 
Just thinking out loud - you may already be doing this, but just to make sure - I would highly recommend putting a tube on the bleeder screw and keeping the other end of the tube submerged in a little bit of clean brake fluid to make sure air isn't backing up through the hose. This is what worked for me.

Just a thought.
Matt
 
That bleeder tool works like this: It is a hand operated vacuum pump, with the vacuum end going to a hose, that goes to a cup, with another hose going from the bottom inside of the cup out to a longer hose, that goes on the bleeder nipple. When you squeeze the pump, the vacuum guage goes to about 30, you let the bleeder screw loose and watch fluid/air bubbles come out the clear hose into the cup. As you do this, the vacuum guage starts to drop. I don't let it fall below 10 before I tighten up the bleeder and repeat process. Am I doing this correctly? It seemed to work good on my GPz and my Toyota. Not always easy to have the Mrs. come down and pump the pedal as she is always the Grinch.:eek: OK, I said it, what she gunna do about it?:D
 
Anybody heard of this thing? "Thexton bleed tool "?
Came from another post and mentioned this electronic bleeding tool for the M/C. BUT it was for a 94/95 car (Teves Mark IV) Mine is the 90' Teves Mark II.

Found this on a site..Thexton tools part# 133, TEVES IV ABS BRAKE BLEEDER. The Ford dealer tool brand is Rotunda and it's part# is T90P-50-ALA.
 
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This might be useful I may not....

In my down near the bottom of the fender area to the right inside the wheel well, there is a pressure switch of some kind that busted seals and was leaking fluid out causing the pedal to become rock hard. I don't know if your leaking fluid, but that caused my rear breaks not to operate. Can't remeber if I bought a new one or I got it at a junk yard.

Joe
 
I think that is the proportioning valve. Sits on the drivers fraim rail. Mine isn't leaking, but good you say that, as I'll look and see if it has a bleeder on it or something. If it does, I'll try to get some air out of it before bleeding the rears again.....thanks Joe..
 
There's no bleeder screw on the proportioning valve. If anyone's is leaking, however, it's usually from that sensor that's screwed into the valve. The sensor can be unscrewed, and it's about $100 from FORD - really steep, but at least you won't have brake fluid squirting out onto the ground like I did.

Matt
 
start at the front

having ABS makes bleeding the brakes alot easier ...if you have two people ...let the pump do the work...but start @ the M/C ..hold peddle towards the floor ..key on... till pump stops and crack those 3 lines open ..also ...do the accumulator.... do it first ...then the 3 lines ...then you can do... the bleeders on the brakes ...just remember ....you have 3 lines RFront ....LFront and Rears ...so you have to bleed both rear calipairs ..to get the air out ...wrap a rag around the lines.... when you crack them open ,,,,help's keep the fluid from spraying everywhere ...be slow there is really alot of pressure ..once you get the system primed ....once the air ....is out ...of the top end of the system ..it will pump it out to the rears pretty quick ........dave
 
Re: start at the front

MercsSC said:
....but start @ the M/C ..hold peddle towards the floor ..key on... till pump stops and crack those 3 lines open
Click to expand...
Let ALL 3 lines (That come out of the M/C and down to the proportioning valve) open at once WHILE the pedal is to the floor? Do I understand you correct Dave?

..also ...do the accumulator.... do it first

How do you bleed the accumulator when it is under high pressure?


...so you have to bleed both rear calipairs ..to get the air out....

Bleed BOTH rears at the SAME TIME? Makes sense as it seems that the air will just pass back and forth through the rear line.

Sorry, my quote thing didn't copy correctly..
 
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loosen accumulator first ..there is a hole on the threads ..that will allow the fluid and air to bypass...without it popping off.....also it is the high point in the system ...and air can be trapped around the bladder inside the accumulator..next crack the 3 lines 1 @ a time .. that will finish bleeding out the M/C ...then you can move on to the calipairs ..don't worrie about the proportioning valve it will clean it's self out ..once you start bleeding the brakes calipairs ...again 2 people ..with key on ..foot on the brake ..don't pumpthe peddle .. let the pump ..prime the system ...open the bleeder screws ..1 @ a time ..open ,close ,open close ...pretty fast to keep the pressure in the system ...when you open them
on the rear ..you will have to go from right to left or left to right several times ..to bleed it out ...but the ABS moves the fluid out pretty good ,,,,,a lot faster than ...pumping it by foot ....dave
 
Good tips Dave, I'll try them. Thank you! I'll haveMrs Grinch help in the cockpit and have her do what she is good at doing...sitting on her but:D
 
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