BobGPz said:
So question is, does that switch send a signal to the ABS pump to kick on the pressure?
No. Nothing to do with the ABS. However, if you have no brakes lites, then you also won't be able to start the car.
I can't seem to get the M/C to put out any pressure. I hear the pump kick on upon key on posistion, but never does kick back on when bleeding the brakes, thus no pressure. I bled the M/C, Accumulator, 3 brake Lines coming out of the M/C, etc...All electricals are plug in correctly (Triple checked) ,, No Dice...
Anyhow, There are two switches under the dash on the brake pedal.
1. Way up top and is mounted to the pedal bracket. (I thought that was the switch for brake lights)
2. Another switch mounted ON the stud that sticks out of the brake pedal about 1/3 the way down..and it is also wrapped around the master cylinder pushrod that connects to that stud.
Any ideas? Merry Xmas to all..
The upper switch looking thing should have a yellow tip. It isn't a switch, it is a vaccuum cut off valve which shuts off the cruise control. BTW, when your cruise control stops working, you'll need to adjust this back-n-forth a couple of clicks at a time to get it working again.
The only other thing which would NORMALLY be on your brake pedal lever is the brake light switch. It fits around the stud which fits throught the rod which drives the M/C. One thing to note is when its hooked up properly, it makes almost a 90 deg angle to the lever and fits with its flat side flush against the flat side of the M/C rod. Then there is a single connector with a couple of wires which hook it up.
Neither of these items will affect your brake hydraulics in any way.
When you go to bleed the rear brakes, start at the RR, and take a piece of clear plastic tubing over the bleeder valve and feed it into a jar of can with an inch or so of fluid in the bottom. Simplest way to do this is to take the wheel off. Pump the brake pedal 10 or more times, then turn the key on, listen for the pump running, and watch the brake & anti lock lights go out. If they stay lit or never come on to begin with, there is some other problem to deal with.
Now, with an assisant, open the bleeder valve slightly and have someone softly push on the pedal; have them inform you when it reaches the floor, but make sure they understand not to let up on it until you tell them to. Turn the bleeder screw in to trap the air. Then have them relase the pedal, and repeat the process until the fluid runs clean with no air bubbles. Its the normal bleeding process, except you need the key turned on. You will hear the pump kick in every few pedal presses while doing this.
The clear tubing allows you to see when all of the air is out. The can of fluid with the tubing immersed is to keep air from getting back in when the pedal is released but the bleeder screw isn't entirely closed.
Hope this helps.