How to retreive ABS Codes

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BobGPz

Registered User
Couldn't find anything about retreiving ABS Codes in the search feature, and lot of people posting about trouble getting it to work, so I post this to help anyone who needs it as I finally got it to work:

Firstly, my car is a 1990 SC. I used an Actron Code Scanner. Same scanner I use to pull my EEC Codes. In the trunk area, you want to pull the carpeted panel back from the passenger sidewall. There is a red test connector/cover attached to the frame of the trunk. It should be labeled ABS Test or something. Unplug the test connector and plug it into your scanner. Put the scanner in test mode. Then return to the drivers seat and turn ignition swith to the ON position, but do not start the car. It takes a few seconds, but the ABS light will show codes in form of flashes of the ABS light. If it does not start flashing, I noticed it did after I hit the brake pedal once.

I do not know where to look up codes, but hopefully someone has them and will post with this as I need them now. I will edit if I find them. Hope this helps anybody that needs this...
 
Bob - check with Duffy Floyd he has the code charts. If you look back at past posts on ABS questions, you'll likely find it. I got my codes read at the Ford dealer (my son works there) and was able to diagnose a bad front sensor (code 35). By the way what was the code reader model & was it for a regular OBD-1 (our EEC -1V computer) or the new type 11 ?? My Equus reader won't work on the ABS.
 
Here is the link Duffy Floyd posted on the ABS codes, as I forgot about them listed there until someone here had reminded me.
http://www.35ththunderbirdregistry.org/Tips/ABS.htm

I have the Actron #CP9015 (www.actron.com) Code Scanner for Ford, Mercury, & Lincoln EEC-IV systems. Seems to work on 1994 Ford Tempo and 1993 Ford Bronco. Not sure if those vehicles are OBD-II or not, but it did read the codes on those as well as the ABS and EEC-IV on mine. Paid like $40 or so at local parts store and has paid for itself 5 times already. I hear Wal-Mart sells them as well.
 
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FYI, you don't need a code reader for our cars. Just jumper the ground and trigger pin on the test connector. The codes flash on the dash. This is true for ABS and EEC system.

Regards,
Lee
 
Yes, a bit tough to read the codes on the scanner in the trunk, while your sitting at the pilot seat.. :rolleyes:
 
lgarner said:
FYI, you don't need a code reader for our cars. Just jumper the ground and trigger pin on the test connector. The codes flash on the dash. This is true for ABS and EEC system.

Regards,
Lee
Click to expand...
And the ARC computer too... I would think. 3 computers, 3 lights, 1 paperclip, 1 pad-n-pencil :D [Actually, I'm a bit more sophisticated, I took a piece of wire and crimped fork tabs on the ends] :cool:
 
my stupid Equus reader doesnt work and I dont want to drive to my friends shop, how do i short out or whatever the connector to blinkey light thingy on the dash...for ABS
 
Find the ABS test cover. If its not behind the trunk cover, I don't know where it is. :p The ARC/EVO and EEC are the 2 under the hood. If you find it (so I'm told), then if its like the EEC (as I've understood it to be), plug the single wire connector into the top right pin on the bigger connector housing. Top right is with the shorter side of the trapezoid shape facing up. Looks sort of like this:

.. /-------\
./...-- --....\ <-- This one
|-- -- -- --|
------------

Turn key on and count the blinks. Then you just have to find out what the codes mean. But, I would think 1 1 would be a pass code. :cool: :cool:
 
I found that connector, but no single wire i can see :eek: . Should i randomly smash every component of the vehicles elecrical system and see if the glitch goes away? :confused:
 
AsScLoWn said:
I found that connector, but no single wire i can see :eek: . Should i randomly smash every component of the vehicles elecrical system and see if the glitch goes away? :confused:
Click to expand...
Your probablilty of success is just about the same I suppose. Oh well, I was assuming that the test harness would have the single wire pigtail connector bundled on the side just like the EEC. If its not there, all I can do is guess that the STO and STI pins might jumper together, but that a big guess and I've no idea what it would do if it were a wrong guess.
I think someone with a better electrical diagram, or shop manual, is going to need to step in here. :)

Oh, and when I say plug the single wire into the STI pin, what I mean is take a paper clip or jumper wire and connect them together. They won't fit on their own. ;)

.. /-------\
./...-- --....\ <-- This one is the STI pin
|-- -- -- --|
------------
____
|......|------- <-- Single wire connector


Jumper via paper clip STI to the separate wire. I apologize for incorrect terms; they actually have names for these things. Its also hard to make ascii diagrams with this thing.

I can check this later, but its hard for me to imagine that the single wire isn't just a plain old battery level voltage, in other words.. just a constant +12V. So, if the wire's missing, maybe just run a long wire from the EEC single wire to act as the test trigger for the ABS harness, or just run it to the battery. ;) :D
 
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