No Brakes Abs And Brake Light On

S

Scott Long

Registered User
I was heading home from my vacation in virginia and I go to hit the brakes and both lights came on and the pedal was stiff.

I was able to get it back to where I was staying but its scary driving and having to stand on the brake pedal to get the car to slow down in rush hour traffic.

I called around and can get a new ABS accumulator on monday morning. I am pretty sure thats what the problem is. I just wanted to make sure.

Every so often the lights would go off and I'd get my pedal feel back for about one pump but after that the lights stay on and the pedal is stiff.

I'm not leaking fluid or anything but I have noticed if I had to stop quickly the brake lights would come on and go off but the pedal always had a normal feel. I was planning on replacing the accumulator soon but now I have to get it changed so I can get back to michigan.

I assume I can just remove and replace it? I have been told I don't need to bleed the brakes after changing the accumulator.

I was quoted $175.00 plus tax for a used accumulator from this junk yard. I have searched the forum and I have found that from Prior they only cost about $100.00 so hopefully I'll be able to talk them down in price substantially. If not, then I guess I'm gonna get ripped off since I need this part ASAP before my pump burns out. I haven't really checked the pump yet but I will in the morning before I buy the accumulator.
 
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Before Accumulator...

Scott -

Change the relays on the passenger side firewall. They're the brown relays and cost about $15 each.

If you can hold out, get the accumulator from Prior. $175 is way too high and there's no gaurantee it'll be good.

The relays are prone to burning out. Another check is to turn the key on and listen for the pump to charge. If you don't hear it then the relays. With the engine running, pump the pedal until you hear the pump kick on. If it's 2-3 pumps then the sccumulator is not holding. 8-9 is normal.

The Accumulator is an easy change - remember to depressurize the brake system first or you'll have a pressurized rocket when you try to take it off. Loosen or remove the driver's cowl piece to make removal easier. Spin the old one off and spin the new one on.

Good luck.

Mark
'93 SC
 
I'll check the pump for operation in the morning and if it runs when I turn the key on then I can assume the relays are also functioning properly right? If no pump, then change relays, and then check again right? If no pump, then its the pump. If pump runs its the accumulator?

I'm about 99.9% sure its the accumulator.

I'm gonna try and talk the price down but I'm stuck in Virginia and I have a job and a home I need to get back to in Michigan so I'm kinda screwed either way. I can't wait to ship it from Prior, and if I can't talk them down I need this part. Damn.

By the way, I have no wipers or motor on this car, so I can take the cowl off in about 5 seconds flat.
 
I found a relay for $9.49 at Advance Auto right down the street so I'm going to go pick that up first just in case its not the accumulator. I know for a fact that my accumulator is going bad and I am going to definately purchase the one from Prior asap when I get home from my trip.
 
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I found two relays, and removed them and switched them in hopes of maybe figuring out that one was bad, the pump still isn't running when I turn the key on. I'm going to go get some new relays this morning but I wonder why the pump doesn't run after switching the relays. I wouldn't think two would go bad at the same time.

I know the accumulator isn't holding pressure well since if I have to step on the pedal quickly the pump runs and the lights come on. I figured the accumulator finally went bad completely but its possible I finally burned out the pump motor I suppose.

Anyone else have any ideas?
 
I've got both relays in the house and I cleaned them up to see part numbers.

I get this number off the brown one: E7LB-2CO13-BA
and the grey relay doesn't have any numbers engraved into it. I think the other one might be the A/C WOT cut out relay. I've read the article on the 35th registry about the Teves Mark II brake system and I am going to try to replace the relay and see if I can get the pump to run before I spend money on an accumulator. If I can get it working and make it back to Michigan I'll priority overnight an accumulator from Prior. If not, then I will have to book a flight and leave this damn car in VA at her parents house till I can get a truck and trailer and come get it. Or pay a local ford dealer to try and sell me a $1500.00 pump unit. If its not the relay, this looks like it will get expensive quickly.

When I turn the key to ON all the dummy lights come on and go off except for the Volt, ABS, and BRAKE. Obviously the volt light is on due to voltage below 14v. But the ABS and brake light I think should go off after the motor pressurizes the accumulator. I don't even hear the motor run even after switching the relays.
So I'm off to Advance Auto to get a new relay and hope to hell thats all it was although I'll be mad I back tracked 110 miles w/ no brakes to get a fricking relay I could have picked up in Richmond when I was walking around the part of town where I stayed at.

The guy at advance told me over the phone that the part number for the GP Sorenson relay is MR-12. I have been searching this forum and have found MR-120 as the number everyone else is buying. Anyone know for sure if this will work? I'm taking the old relay w/ me to be sure its the same one.

On the 35thregistry.com site the ABS article says there will be three relays on the firewall. My car only has 2. I think the grey one might be the A/C WOT cut out but I'm not sure so I'll put it back even though my A/C comp never cylces on due to a hole in my condensor.
 
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Scott,wish that I could have caught up to you...I just sold a complete ABS unit to a guy.....maybe I could have helped out.Was out in Chesapeake over the wk/end,went through the area where you stayed but didn't see a SC anywhere...good luck w/ getting home,let me know if I can help.
z
 
If the relay doesn't fix the problem, there is a pressure sensor on the side of the ABS unit. I had one of those go bad before. It controls when the pump turns on and off. Also check the fuse under the hood for the ABS if you haven't already.
 
I had the same problem...

Hi, Scott;
The relays are cheap; I'd say fix them first.
I had the very same problem with my brake indicator lights and stiff pedal, and freaked out at the thought of paying to have the ABS system replaced. I took the car to the local dealer, and after some searching, it turned out to be a relay. Whew!

Good luck.
 
Ok, I made it home from VA Beach w/ no power assist. Washington DC sucks during rush hour w/ no brakes.

I changed the relay and no help. I'm going to try the pressure switch and the ignition switch next. If no luck, I guess I gotta get the pump and accumulator from Prior. I'm not going to install the pump myself, I have a friend who's an ASE Ford Tech that will do it cheap for me. He drives a Cobra R (real one) and has done work for me before so I trust him to do this for me. (he did the trans in my 92 5-speed).

I hope to god its just something electrical and not the pump itself. The accumulator isn't hard to change since I have no wiper motor/assembly on the car the cowl comes off and I can have the accumulator out in like 5 minutes, but the pump I'm not gonna attempt.

Wish me luck I'll let you know how this turns out once the ign. switch is changed tonight.
 
Scott, found a easy way to test the ABS Pressure Switch from Duffy's 35th Article as my pump would not turn on...Getting the connector unplugged was not fun, but easier than removing whole ABS system..Unplug the ABS Pressure Switch at connector. then you want to ground the #4 pin to a good ground like the negative batter terminal. Turn key to the on posistion. Pump should run if switch is bad.
To help identify #4 see below, or Duffy's article...
___ ___ ___
___ ___

It is the BOTTOM LEFT pin as you are looking at the 5-pin connector on the Harness itself.
Anybody know if the GM Pressure Switch is the SAME exact switch for the Ford? Saw a post on that but not sure if it is excact. I know it is $70 cheaper than Ford.
 
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Ok, I just got done putting the dash back together after changing the ign. switch. I knew that set of tamper proof torx bits I bought would come in handy some day :D

I guess I'll try to jump the harness and hope its just a bad pressure switch.

Anyone know the part number for the switch? And about how much I can expect to spend on it?

So far I have done this:

fuse box 10a antilock fuse: checked good
underhood fuse: checked good
firewall brown relay: replaced hopefully good
ignition switch: replaced good
pressure switch: checking now.....

I'll post back in a bit w/ results.
 
Ok I got the wiper cowl off on the drivers side and the motor assembly is removed. Now... I can see the pressure switch but I'm gonna have a hell of a time getting at it with the pump still on the car. I did however get the pumps 4 prong harness disconnected so I'm going to run and get a multi-meter (can't find mine probably let someone borrow it) and test for voltage at the motor. If Its getting power I can assume the motor is bad right?

If its not getting power then its wiring/electrical problem right? I suppose a bad pressure switch wouldn't let power go to run the pump.

Got any tips on how to get the switch out while this is still attached to the car or how to remove it without draining and removing the master cylinder and all the lines?
 
Link for you..

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37332&highlight=ABS+Pressure+Switch That one should give a part number for FORD switch & IF you are brave enough you can try the GM switch. Let me know if the GM works as it is $50 cheaper..:D

As quoted from Duffy Floyd on the socket for it..Tool Number for Ford Tool is T85P-20215-B. Also need a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter and a 3/8" ratchet. Somer people said they have gotten it out w/ vise grips, but..:rolleyes: I'll find out when I pull mine out AGAIN..
 
Well I couldn't get the pressure switch harness off so I pulled the four pin power harness to the pump and turned the key on, and sure enought it wasn't getting any voltage through it. So I'm guessing its the pressure switch itself.

I think I'll take it in to my friend at the ford dealer and let him play with it.
 
Yeah those dam clips sure are a PITA! Bout' the only way I could get them off is to bust off the hardest to get to side clip, and use a "All" to bend back the other clip while using a large screwdriver to pry the connector off. Takes eight hands on this car..:rolleyes: Let us know the results when you get it fixed..
 
I'll let you know. I'll probably run it by the shop tomorrow and drop it off. I'm about 99% sure its the pressure switch. Its the only thing left that I haven't changed now that would cause power to not flow to the motor.
 
That GM ABS pressure switch is $75 at some online GM parts places. They used the same Teves 2 ABS system. :

http://www.buy-gm-parts.com/

Just type in : 25530882
and it comes up $75.00


But you maybe the guinea pig to see if the parts work.

So maybe try some Pick/pull salvages and look for 1986-88 Buicks Park Aves, centurys and similar models. You might grab their Accumulators too.
 
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