replaced abs motor motor runs but no pressure

R

rlong

Registered User
i replaced the abs motor and it seems like the pump part is turning but it wont build pressure motor sounds fine i took it back off and primed it but no luck i worked 12 hours trying to get it primed but no luck any ideas would be great. pump worked fine till i put new motor on it i didnt try bleeding rear brakes yet . i was trying to get it to pump out of the car by hotwiring the pump and squeezing a bottle of brake fluid down the hose this could be very dangerous if it started pumping . i wouldnt try it if i were you . i gave up ill probably have to get a new pump
 
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You might try replacing the Warning pressure switch to see if that may be the problem. It is a lite green sensor that has a electrical plug on the end of it, heard of these going bad ocassionally.

Just a thought.

Good Luck!

Jeff B.
 
My dad and I tried to "Hotwire" one also and no luck. You can put pump back in to the car and ground the #4 pin (On the pressure warning switch) to neg battery terminal. It is a 5 pin connector that sits right above the pump. If switch is bad then the pump can either continuesly run OR nor turn on at all. There's a link to Duffy Floyd's ABS Article that was extremely helpful in troubleshooting the system including the pump, switch, and everything else. I'll post link below..

http://www.35ththunderbirdregistry.org/Tips/ABS.htm
 
Did you do anything with the accumulator

Did you securely screw in the accumulator?

If the accumulator goes bad the pump runs and you get little to no brake pedel power (no power brakes)

Also, if you've changed the pads and pushed the cylinders in without letting the pressure out via the wheel bleeder you could have the line dirty pushed back into the resevoir and then through the pump/accumulator.

something to check, hope this helps
 
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i think the motors armature is out or in to far and the pump it not riding in the center of its race
 
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Hey rlong

I got that same problem. The pump sounds like it is pumping but it is not. I can't get any pressure to the accumulator or any fluid to flow to the back breaks. I can tell this because the pump makes a deeper stronger sound when it is pumping break fluid. Right now it sounds like it is turning faster and makes a higher louder spinning whining sound.
 
Had the same problem til last Saturday(pump would run but wouldn't stop running). Found a junkyard ABS, pulled the pressure switch, used a wrench(robogrip, Sears) to break it loose and hand loosened. Pulled mine out the same way. Pulled the IC tubes thoughto get to it. Plugged everything back in and KOEO for the pump to run, 30 seconds to pressuized bliss. Nice to have my brakes again. GL.

Thanks again th D. Floyd
 
ok i fixed it i had to let it sit all nite to get fluid from the master cylinder to fill the pump and accumulator now it works great .
i wasnt patient enough before i was only waiting 10 to 20 min . and that wasnt long enough it took all nite. i didnt have to bleed anything just tighten everything up and wait i parked the car for about a month wondering about this with the pump off the car , the other nite i put it on and nothing the next morning yippy it was better than christmas
 
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Thanks for the tip. Bleeding/priming the Teves II is an issue which comes up regularly. As a pioneer, you have made a valuable discovery which will be passed onto the disgruntled community of Teves II owners thus hopefullly gruntling them somewhat. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Alright, thanks for tip...Just got M/C back in today and a new Accumulator. Bled the 3 M/C lines, Pump is running, but no pressure building as it is not winding down. I will let it sit overnight also, before trying to bleed brakes. Thanks for the tip. Nice when people post followups, so the rest of us know...:)
 
I just did this to my SC about 3 months ago. Installed a new pump and it just ran all the time, no pressure. Installed new pressure sw, still ran. Tested the relay it was good. Got tired messing with it. As I was pushing out of garage, noticed a round washer looking piece on the floor. Turns out it is some sort of coupling between the pump shaft and pump. Installed it and it works fine now. Just my 2 cents worth!
 
BobGPz said:
Pump is running, but no pressure building as it is not winding down.
Click to expand...
Definitely sounds as if the pump isn't primed. Now, you didn't hear this from me if it doesn't work.. but if it still doesn't go, what I would do is loosen the accumulator a few turns and try running the pump for a few seconds to see if anything comes out.. it will be messy, but a lot of paper towels, or plastic bags should contain the fluid. The idea is that the air trapped inside the pump should freely bleed out of the port, and then the fluid should start to flow. I would think this shouldn't take more than a second or 2 for something to happen.
Then reseat the accumulator and you should be in good shape. You might try just loosening it enough to unseat the oring.

Once it starts, it will run for a while the first time, but eventually, the air will be forced out and work its way back into the reservoir. Give it at least a minute the first time.
 
How long should I let it go before I shut it off to avoid burning up 2nd pump? I hear 30 seconds should be plenty o time to build full pressure. Problem is I do NOT hear it "Winding Down" as if pressure is building up.. I will try today and see as it has sat all night, and if it doesn't work I will try to loosen accumulator and have someone hit the key for a second or two...
 
To me, I'd expect to hear something start to happen within 30 seconds also. The manuals I've read state that its within specs for the pump to run and the lights to stay on for up to a minute upon first start. Seems like a long time, but Ford must have thought the equipment was up to it. I think you can run into problems when the pump is overworked on a continual basis, like for example when day in and day out for months at a time, each pedal press causes it to run.

From a fluid standpoint, if the air is allowed to move up to a lower pressure area (the atmosphere) from a higher pressure area (the inside of the pump), then it will flow and hence it will eventually pull the fluid out from the reservoir, sort of like a straw. The key thing is to let the air move. The accumulator may be preventing this from happening.

Good luck.
 
Same issue different problems

I recently acquired a one owner 90 sc and the problem I have
Is my pump only runs all the time if I have my button in the
Auto position. If it is in firm position it runs for 20 sec and shuts
Off. When in auto on my ride control the abs and break lights are
frequent, more on then off. 65% of the time you loose little if any pedal
the other it's like my old 68 ford you can stand on it but not going to accomplish
Much. But in firm on my ride control drove 400 miles with no lights
Or break issues. Any thoughts and I didn't replace anything just a bug I found
 
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