Whats It Doing????????

Bassman Check for any codes.

That is the first thing you should do. Could be a number of things. Bad connection, fuel delivery, dis problems. You have to start somewhere any checking for codes would be the place to start.
 
If they are the original plugs and wires (they have the year on the wires), don't waste your time checking codes, change the plugs and wires first.

Jeff
 
THAT WAS FAST !! THANK YOU

I WILL TRY THE PLUGs AND WIRES.
It feels like you are turning on and off the ignition so if the wires were worn it might do that??
the car belongs to a good friend and he is working 5000 miles away and instead of letting it sit he is letting me drive it.
he also said that he put in a high pressure fuel pump to try and fix the problem but that did nothing.
thank you for the help

shayne

ps i own a 98 explorer possible engine swap???
 
when my car was shutting off first it was crank sensor
then a few years later it was fuel pump then later plugs and wires were making it miss then dis module went 4 years later then harmonic balancer at 212 k miles, and one time battery terminal was touching the hood making it shut off,,now it runs awesome and abs pump went but it has been great many trouble free miles and fast ones too
 
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It will probably run and drive fine but as you inccrease the load on the engine (and boost) there will be a boost level that it starts to stutter. What happens is that the resistance increases with age and the plugs wear away. Wires crack and and leak and as cylinder pressure increases so does the amount of voltage that it takes to jump the gap.

This is what brought me to this board. I had never owned a superharged car. I drove it on a 5 hour trip and when I left the car was fine. about the time I came into the town I was going I was getting into some mountians, I had the ruise control on and as the boost gauge would reach about 5psi it started bucking. I have a 5speed car so I was in 5th and had to down shift to maintain speed. It really scared me since I was so far from home with limited tools. It only happened when I would reach 5psi. I drove all the way home after a few days (it was like Thanksgiving) and just babied it.

Over the next few weeks I asked everyone I knew and this included my Dad an aircraft mechanic from b4 I was born. A mechanic everybody at my work uses. Only my Dad said it was an ignition problem, but didn't know why exactly it was at 5psi. Then it got worse, it was about 3psi then 0 then -10 in/hg. Finally after about a 2 months of checking this and that (Checked EVERYTHING) I saw it on this board. Plugs and wires. Couldn't believe it, and really didn't want to do them (take a look you can't see nan one of them plugs from the top). Changed them after nearly choking on a $75.00 bill for for 6 double platnium plugs and 6 stinking wires, then I had to get the thing up on ramps and contort myself around to get them. Car ran like a top after that.

BTW you will need to use Double Platnium plugs only and don't use Bosch plugs. Also make sure that you baby your friends car as I know you don't want to have to change headgaskets on it as well. If your friend is letting you use it I suggest you just use it as basic transportation and don't get on it. These cars will pop a headgasket in a heartbeat. Done that too. Costs about 800-1200 for a shop to do it. 300-500 if you do it.

Jeff
 
head gasket?????

ya i see what you are saying about the baby thing.
with 200 k i dont see no 1/4 mile in the future.
you say it will pop a head gasket real easy ??
what should i not do with the car that would blow it up??
i should also say that the miles on the car are mostly highway and not in town.
the car also see's new oil every 1500 miles and the hardest it gets driven is just to show someone what a sc can do .
i really like the car and it looks like new .


shayne
 
I can't think of anyone that has been around here for any length of time that hasen't blown a headgasket. Make sure you don't overheat it. The rad hose is higher than the rest of the motor so when you fill the rad the it will not be full there will be quite a bit of air in the system. Make sure the overflow tank is not cracked and holds fluid. If you look at the thermostat housing you will see a tube that rises up and above everything else. If you have to fill the rad back up you remove this plug (use a back up wrench there is a "nut" on the underside that you have to hold or it will twist off the tube) and fill the rad until water shoots out of the tube. Then fill the overflow and start the engine. Allow the temp to come up to temp and then shut the car off and allow it to cool All the way down. You might have to do this a few times to get all the air out. but I wouldn't worry about it unless you start overheating.

Jeff
 
Bucking under boost ended up being plugs and wires for me too. Cured the problem, but was not the easiest job to do.
 
well when my car did that ( bucking under boost and not driving well ) I drove it home then it stalled in my driveway... hmmmm gas gauge hhmmm empty ;)

Clogged fuel filter maybe, but Im sure its the plugs and wires in your case, but in my case... I had no gas hahahaha.
 
Mine did the same thing when I first got it.

I didn't think it was the wires, but I followed someone else's suggestion, and ran the car at night in the garage.
At about 3500RPM, I could see the arching from the wires to the block!
:eek:

Replaced the wires with a set of magnecors, and Autolite Double Plats. No problems (with that anyways) since.
 
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