Timing Cover leakage

[SCme]

I about 95% sure that my coolant leak is from my timing cover on my 94. I understand that the pan does not have to be dropped, nor any thing from the passenger side removed, but most of the driver side accessories. I am planing to replace the water pump and gasket at the same time. Anything else I should replace/think of replacing around this area when doing this? Has right at 95K on it. This is a budget job, so things that need to be replace will be looked at, while its a good ideal, but might not need to be replaced will be only thought about depending on the price.

Any one here done one, and want to lend some advice. Hate to just replace the timing cover gasket and water pump then later should have done...

[Jason Parham]

Hmm, lets see. Enerything on the driver's side will need to come off, and remember there's a hidden bolt for that accessory bracket which if I remember correctly is just below the alternator. Speaking of hidden bolts, dont forget the Allen-head bolt on the timing chain cover. most people forget this one and wind up breaking the cover trying to pry it off. Since you have to pull off the harmonic balancer, might as well get yourself a new one (comes w/ a new pulley as well) and as always get a new bolt while your at it. You COULD put your old balancer back on again but you will run a risk of it breaking sooner or later (I've been there). Strangely enough, I wasnt able to maneuver the balancer and pulley down into position togethor. I had to unbolt the pulley from the balancer, bolt the balancer on the crank, and then put the pulley back on the balancer making sure you rotate it so that the marks on the balancer and the pulley line up again. That balancer will run you up to $200 at the dealer alone, so make sure that timing cover is your problem before you waste what might be an otherwise good balancer.

[Jason Parham]

Oh almost forgot: I'm not sure in your case that you'll need to do this, but if you need to remove the crank sensor from the timing cover, that its something like a pair of 5.5 mm bolts holding it on and you'll need a metric ignition wrench set to get it off. It would be best to have a boxed end wrench to avoid rounding it off, but if you cant find one you may be able to get a 7/32 socket to fit on it too. You'll need a feeler gage to position it properly with the crank sensor when you put it back on. I cant remember what size but Mike P. should know (he was the one who told me way back when)

[Mike Puckett]

You'll need ~.030 on each side if the balancer vane while inside the sensor. You've got your work cut out for you on this project. I've got Rick doing mine on the red car. Too much work for me.

[SCme]

Man, you'll got me beginning to wonder about it being a DIY job. I was going to job it out, but figured if I go BHJ on the HB and new water pump plus new cam & crank sensor, it will run me around $800-1000 for my parts and their labor.


Does any one have one of the "official" shop manuals that they can give me some better directions. All I have is a hayes and its for the 91, back when I had it.

Mike, if you don't mind, how much is Rick doing it for? If its a "good buddy deal" you can email me with an about price. I might just let someone else do it, now that my parents purchased a 2003 Explorer, I can borrow one of their cars to drive while the SC is down.

[hunter]

I have the big blue shope manual but its for the 89, if anyone ever needs to borrow mine , just shout.