View Full Version : Fuel, timing, or balancer?

01-20-2004, 09:07 PM
my sc has been running great since i rebuilt the transmission. A few nights ago i picked up a friend and went somewhere with my sc and stoped for 10 min or so and when i tried to start it, the engine turns over but doesnt start. It feels like its fuel deprived. After a couple cranks i got it started but it died out with a weird lurch. I started it again and hit the accelerator to 2g's to give it some fuel, droped it in r and took my freind home real quick. My freind mentioned it felt sometihng like a timing chain. When i got home i ran it at idle for 5 min or so without any problems. the next day i run a bunch of errands and it runs fine for the first 3 places or so but as i put it in r to back into a parking spot, it died out on my with some clinkin going on? I started back up and got into the spot as it died out again. When i come back 5 min later it wouldnt start up and then i can get it to start up but it will just die. I give it some fuel and it runs but soon as i let off to **** it would die off. A guy nearby "a former towtruck drive" said its like fuel, my pump. We made sure the releve wasnt pushed and after a few more starts for him he told me it has to be a timing chain. I took it to a local shop to run some diagnostics and check it out. For a couple weeks ive been noticing the crankshaft pully vibrating more than i would expect it to. After playing with it for 4 days they tell me a crankshaft sensor became miss aligned and they fixed it. So i go out and start my car and it idles for **** like its going to die and its not staying on time or have fuel. they told me that it was all cool and they dont know whats causing that but "it wont die on you and you can get it going". How lame. I dont know which area to look at. My fuel system should be cool, timing i know little about. But if this sensor came undone then whats keepin it from happeing again and could it be b/c the balancer is going bad? I got a new pully to put on it but havent yet b/c i havent had the time. What could it be? I would probably think its fuel but except for the fact that it was idleing fine and suddenly one night it wasnt. And am leading towards the balancer since the crankshaft pully is run off that and the sensor must be involved there somewhere. Help Please. All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in adavanced. Zach

01-21-2004, 12:09 AM
If the balancer is broke it can knock the timing sensor out of adjustment. I don't think it could get out of adjustment any other way. Also the balancer can rotate on the crank and cause the timing to get out of adjustement. These are steel and aluminum balancers on these cars and they fail at a VERY high rate. Order a BHJ balancer or get a new one from Ford or a ford parts dealer online like www.fordpartsnetwork.com . Also buy a new 98 Mustang V6 crank bolt and washer for your new balancer. If the car has 100,000 miles this is a good time to change water pump and timing chain. If you go that far make sure you buy a new tensioner for the chain from Ford only $15.

I would buy a new crank sensor as well because this one is damaged from being hit.

I just had all this happen to my 89 SC. The car was out of time by about 15 degrees physically but a timing light would say it was right at 10 degrees BTDC. Car started a little slow and was very down on power at high rpms and in boost. Car ran 17 sec 1/4 Mile and everybody was thinking DIS module or PIP circuit failure. When all that was wrong was the balancer was broke and had turned on the crank.


01-21-2004, 12:29 AM
Can you tell me about some more problems you had or trigger signs to conect the 2. Sounds familar and thats what i was thinking. My friends as always think im full of @@@@. I plan to build up the engine later but dont have the funds to go all out now. I have whatever needed to fix it but also want to remember that i want to overhaul it and bore it out and all. Also, whats this i hear about a balanced pulley to be attached? I got a ud one from a kit i havent put on yet but what special do i have to do to conect them. Also, is this a do it my self job? what tools are necessary? Thanks for your help. Zach

01-21-2004, 01:21 AM
Zack, removing the balancer and replacing it is a do-it-yourself job. I did mine last summer after noticing the crank pulley wobling around after some autocrossing. All you have to do to put the BHJ balancer to gather with the UD crank pulley is bolt the togather as long as they are both 0 balanced to each other. Make sure you have an impack wrench to get the bolt out of the crank. You will need an balancer puller, and a balancer installer both of wich can be rented at Autozone. One note: Make sure that you line up the new balancer with the key on the crank. Make a mark on the balancer with some finger nail polish or a marker to show where the key slot is on the balancer. Dont hammer the balancer on, work it until you can get 3-5 threads of the new bolt on the crank and then you can use the impack wrench to get it on the rest of the way. Some people on here may not aprove of doing it that way but some do and it work out for me. Just make sure that the installer tool doesn't mess up any of the the treads at the end of the crank, this happened to me and I had to tap the end of the crank. Also, if your front main seal is leaking replace it wile you are at it. I cant think of much else but if I did I'm sure someone will help out too.

Good luck!

01-22-2004, 03:14 AM
Car started to lose performance over a period of time.

I added a 75mm throttle body and the car made more boost but didn't feel faster. I also wanted to add two rear mufflers to the car The night before I had the mufflers installed I made a g-tech run on the same road I always do. The car ran 15.0, I had ran a 14.7 in 32 degree weather 100% stock. So After all the mods I was suprised. Next day I got rear mufflers added. The car was quieter and sounded almost stock but the car felt slower. These are Borla staight through mufflers so no back preasure increase really to speak of so I thought it was in my mind. Anyway over the next month gas mileage went down to around 12 MPG and I was only getting about 17 in of vacuum. I could not find anything wrong with the car. When I installed the 75mm TB I had the car idling hot at 600 rpm with IAC unplugged. Now if I unplugged the IAC the car would die.

Finally the performance just got real bad. I had no codes either. Went to the SC shootout and ran on the dyno and the car made like 200 hp and 280 ft. lbs. The last time I had made like 217 and 327 before the 75mm TB. The car showed 12 to 1 fuel but there was a lot of smoke black and blue. Brian Herron (Apten) said it had no timing( spark advance). Basically everytime I went full trottle the car ran worse. In reality I was slipping the balancer on the crank everytime.

So I took the car home and swapped DIS module and even removed EEC and did a circuit check to the DIS wiring. Feeling that the car was ok I went to the Shootout and ran at MAR. I ran a 17+ something at 79MPH. Car just fell on it's face. I had a lot of advise, but no one said balancer.

That next week I replaced plugs and happen to watching the balancer and it seemed to be moving around while the car was running. I check the crank bolt but it was still there. Anyway I decided that I had better pull the balancer and inspet it. I had replaced the timing chain and used a 98 Mustang crank bolt a year ago. When I pulled the balancer the snout stayed on the crank. The snout of the balancer that has the key slot for the crank keyway was still on the crank. I used a 2 jaw puller to pull the crank timing gear and the snout piece off. I just bought a new Ford balancer.

Car runs with 20 in of vaccum after I replaced the balancer. In hindsight the low vacuum was due to the IAC having to open so far to maintain idle speed.

Only in a SC would a dampner fail.


01-22-2004, 11:47 AM
Sounds very similar. Ive been noticing i havent been getting as well gas milage(maybe 15mpg) and even with my few mods, my overall speed i believe has decreased. The crank pully does wabble a bit when the motor is running so it makes sense. Thanks for your help. Now lets just hope i can buy this semi-used one for 100 cheaper. Zach