car will not start

C

cstemm

Registered User
I can not get the car to start for the life of me. I get codes for act, tps, egr transducer, and the coolant/temp sensor. I have found that all of these are on the same wiring/ground. i have tried testing for continuity, I get no continuity in the act or the coolant/temp sensor. The fan also runs all the time. The tps, and coolant temp sensor are new. Could it be a bad gound, if so, where is it so i can ground it, or could i have a faulty coolant sensor. the fan runs all the time. Thanks curt
 
The only grounds that I know of are one each mount and on the back of the drivers side head. (Which I think comes out of that same harness) The fan is on because the computer may detect a problem with one of the sensors causing it to go into "open loop" so it will run rich and try to cool all the time. You should get access to a good scanner that will give you all the voltage readings etc to all the sendors to pinpoint the problem.
 
something else to ck

On the passenger side fender back near the diagnostic port you can find a wire harness coupler. This is where the engine harness disconnect is at to the engine. Maybe its loose or dirty.....just something else to trace and check....
 
The car doesnt start? Does it crank? Does it sound the same or is there a lull in the cranking? Do you have fire? Does your fuel pump turn on? As far as the ground...you are gonna have to have to find the wire that goes to the bulkhead that 3tbird was talking about. Let us know what else is wrong.
 
I would start with the basics. As was asked, check for spark and check for fuel. Fuel check can be done with a fuel pressure gauge that attaches to the fuel rail.

Spark can be done with a spark plug checker.

If you don't have one of those, it won't start.

My guess is you are missing spark. You didn't describe the circumstances to led to this no start condition. I.E. has it ever started?

The fan running all the time may be due to a mod to have it run all the time. (Cut #14 wire at the IRCM and it will run with key on)

If you have an auto transmission, watch the upshift light when cranking. It should come on with key on, but be off when cranking. If it's on, then the Crank Position Sensor is not giving the ECM any signal. Either due to a bad sensor or a bad wire or a damaged harmonic balancer.
 
car runs now. has good spark, but after it runs for 15 min or more, and gets turned off, it will not start back up again. it cranks fine, but not start. it fires one time and then its all done for about 30-45 min before it will start again.
 
after it runs for 15 min or more, and gets turned off, it will not start back up again. it cranks fine, but not start. it fires one time and then its all done for about 30-45 min before it will start again.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a crank sensor to me
 
Basics. During a no start condition check for fuel and check for spark.

Crank sensor is possible, and that would mean no spark. But if the crank sensor fails while the engine is running it will die. Since it isn't dying and is instead not re-starting, that allows for quite a few other posibilities.

Check for spark and fuel.
 
questions on first 15 min

When it runs for the first 15 mins...what do you observe?

Coolant temp gauge?

Oil pressure gauge?

Tac?

Also, when did you last change the air filter and fuel filter?

Have you driven it for that 15 min? .... drive normal? (be safe if you attempt to drive)

Your observations will lead us to pin pointing what to check next.
 
when i first go to start it, it is a little tough to start, but i attribute that to it being so cold and the car is older. after it starts and runs, idle is good, does not lope at all, just seems to run good. i will have to check this afternoon and run it, then check spark and fuel. air filter needs a change, but fuel filter is only 2 months old.
 
just checked it out, ran the car for about 25 min, took for a little test drive around the block. came back, shut it off, and tried to start it agian. it started and ran up to 2k rpms and slowly dropped, like it was starting cold. shut it off and tried it again, no start. there is a strong spark. oil gauge jumps around, and coolant reads 12oclock. rpm gauge reads normal, and upshift light does not come on during cranking.
 
Something to check

Cheap test......

Get to the point again where it cranks but won't start......stop and remove the air filter and crank the engine again to see if it starts (make sure you only remove the filter not the MAF and tube)......If it starts your air filter is so bad you're choking the air supply.

I've had a filter choke the engine in a month....I now only use the K&N filters.

As for the oil gauge moving can you explain oil level, last changed, filter type, etc.....

Hard exam is to pull the plugs and see how they are.....ck for gap and firing richness.
 
Again.

during no start condition you need to check for spark using a spark tester, and fuel pressure using a fuel pressure tester.

Or you could just start replacing parts and hope you find the problem.

One thing to try. During no-start condition, look for up-shift light on dash during cranking. Also, try to restart at least 5 cycles. With key on, crank, key off. Key on, crank, key off. do that 5 times and see if it will start.
 
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