still cant get it to run

tadmichael22

Registered User
Okay I have tried just about eveything I possibly could and still no go. Okay I have a 93 with 42# injectors, 76mm maf, adj. fuel reg. With the mafs unplugged the car will run. When the maf is connected it wont. It fires real quick goes up to approx. 3000 rpm and instantly stalls. I try to give it gas and that doesnt phase it at all. The last time I tried to start it it kinda sounded like it backfired. I changed my maf sensor with 2 different ones thinking it was the prob but it wasnt. I have also checked for any vac. leaks but I have none. I have had this prob now for about a month and am ready to jump off a bridge!! I checked for codes and the scanner I have said all clear.. I just checked for grounds thinking that could be the prob. but didnt find any bad ones. I saw in another post there is a ground on the back of the left head. Is that the bolt to the fuel reg? Please if anyone can help me please let me know!! P.S. sorry about the long post.
 
won't run

I'm not sure, but from some of the posts I've read, if it will run without the maf hooked up and not run with it hooked up, the problem could be the maf. Itmay be in the maf wiring. Sometimes it gets pulled on and can cause a bad connection in a circuit. Doug Franklin had one that was doing that, you may want to check with him about it.

Hope someone else will give you some ideas. Good luck!

David
 
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The problem definitely lies within the MAFS itself or the plug-in connector. My car had the same problem and I switched the MAFS and it ran like a dream. If you tried a few different ones, I'd look at the wiring and the connector.
 
well when I called C&L about it to see if they had any ideas the told me to do a continuety check with the black wire and I believe it was the red wire I had to check for 12 volts and both of them were fine. So thats why I just assume its okay.
 
the really wierd thing is that when I had the maf connected it did run 1 time. I let it idle for about 30 minutes or so and then shut it off to check over everything. When I tried to fire it back up it went back to the same stuff. Thats whats really wierd is that it did indeed run with it connected 1 time.
 
Mine ran too for a couple of days with the bad MAFS. Then it went back to its old tricks. I have no explanation for it. Maybe try wiggling the MAFS connection when someone else is trying to fire the car. I don't really know what else to try.
 
grounds

There is a ground on the bolt that holds the fuel regulator to the engine. It has an orange wire on it. The other two are on the motor mount brackets. One on each side, on the back bolt.
But I would have to agree, check the wiring on the MAF.
 
tadmichael22 said:
well when I called C&L about it to see if they had any ideas the told me to do a continuety check with the black wire and I believe it was the red wire I had to check for 12 volts and both of them were fine. So thats why I just assume its okay.

How EXACTLY did you do this test?

Jeff
 
Re: grounds

forcefed95sc said:
There is a ground on the bolt that holds the fuel regulator to the engine. It has an orange wire on it. The other two are on the motor mount brackets. One on each side, on the back bolt.
But I would have to agree, check the wiring on the MAF.

The '93s don't have the ground wire that connects to the fuel pressure regulator. Don't even bother looking for it. The later cars (maybe '91 and up) were grounded through the 02 sensors....hence 4 wire 02 sensors, rather than the earlier 3 wire 02 sensors.
 
Okay you guys really had me wondering if I missed a ground or not. Okay Jeff what I did was made sure that the black wire grounded out and it did. Whith the key on I checked the red wire and it came up 11.92 volts w/key on.
 
>Okay I have a 93 with 42# injectors, 76mm maf, adj. fuel reg.<

Have you disconnected the battery to reset the computer?
The car came/designed with 30# injectors, could it be flooding out?
Pulled any codes off a reader, Murphy's law?

ahh the a SC affair continues. All the best, with some luck thrown in.
Chris
 
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Oh sorry I forgot the rest. I did try to pull codes and all I got was a 111 which is all clear. Also yes I did disconnect the battery.
Tad
 
Okay, what C&L told you was correct but I think you are supposed to have batt. voltage at the connector (I will check and get back with you). I think there is a short inside your MAF sensor circuit. The reason the car runs without it plugged in is because it goes into FMEM (Failure Mode Effects Management). When it is not plugged in the computer replaces what it is supposed to see from the sensor with a generic number that it gets from the MAP sensor TB snensor and others. I think you should pin out the sensor to the processor and clean it. If you have one there replace the electronics and see how it runs. Also sounds like your getting oil into your crank sensor or sometihing. I have not had any MAFs cause this problem.
 
What exactly do your plugs look like? After putting new plugs in and trying to fire it maybe 1/2 dozen times my plugs were black.....very, very rich. Are you sure the MAFS that you tried worked? Try another one from a running car.
 
The MAf should have battery voltage on it. If you had the engine running at the time then that (11.91) is way too low. You should have about a couple of tenths of a volt drop between the battery and the MAF sensor. You should also check the voltage output of the sensor and make sure it's not putting out excess. The voltage varies between 0-4.??V.

Since you can't check it running (since the engine dies) you could hook up your DMM and blow across the filiment and see if there is a change. (maybe a leaf blower) The connections for the MAF output signal are C&D (A&B are the supply)

Are you sure you have the correct sample tube? It should be Orange.

Jeff
 
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I also think that the problem is a bad maf sensor. Find one that you know works, and use that one on your car.
 
Someone else had the same problem you are having and the fuel pressure was like 19 psi. He had an adjustable regulator though.

Jeff
 
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