How to:
After a reply for how complicated this is, and the number of peoples mounts failing lately, I am posting how I did my drivers side motor mounts from the TOP. Hope this will help anyone who needs it.
I did mine from above and some from below as it was on car ramps and had my hood removed just for lighting purposes, (and the previous brake repairs to M/C). Once you do them, it will be MUCH MUCH easier to do again. If anybody is local and needs help, give a hollar. Read entire instructions before you begin as you may NOT want to pull some of what I did. I have only done the drivers side so far. Passenger side seems like it will have to be done from below due to the A/C lines, and I don't want to disconmnect them. You'll use mainly 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 13mm deep, 15mm deep, 6 sided sockets & box end wrenches, with some swivels where you HAVE to use them. Don't use swivels unless necessary (Electrical tape wrapped around swivel helps aim the bolts on reinstall). Mine is a 1990 Thunderbird SC, and older years may be different, but what I did for the drivers side was.....
1. Pull the battery out first!
2. Pull the washer fluid overflow and cap the end so you don't loose any fluid.
3. Drained radiator and pull the main serpentine belt.
4. Take off IC top tube.
5. Take off IC lower tube nuts and pull the two hard to get nut/bolts (one 15mm bolt under the car, and one 14mm or 15mm nut under power steering pump. Pull the lower tube out later.
6. Pull the Intercooler out.
7. I pulled the lower radiator hose, Radiator Fan and radiator (Probably not necessary to remove the radiator or lower hose, but the extra room is nice for the first timer to be able to see what you are doing).
8. Pulled the coil pack (Label the wires) and two connectors.
9. Pulled the alternator (1 electrical connector, 2 large bolts, 1 small bolt 10mm in back under the coil pack, 1 small nut holding electrical wire 10mm?)
10. Pulled the two bolts on P/S Pump bracket and then the two nuts on other side of bracket holding it to the water pump.
11. Pull last bolt to P/S Pump and unplug electrical connector
12. There are two 15mm bolts and one 13mm Deep nut holding main accessory bracket on. It slides forward 4 inches and off from the stud from the removed 13mm deep nut. Looks worse than it really is. Be careful that the P/S Pump doesn't get kinked hoses at this point.
13. Wire the P/S pump forward and towards the passenger side. I used the top radiator hose inlet tube.
14. Pull the lower IC tube out.
15. Pull the bolt and stud holding that aluminum smaller bracket (Used for the lower IC tube) out.
16. pull the rubber weather stripping between the fenders that slides on the cowl.
17. Pull the screws and tork bit screws to loosen cowling. You shouldn't need to remove it or wipers. Just need it to be able to rise a little to avoid cracking it.
18. I've heard these motor mount bolts are extremely tight, but mine weren't ridiculously tight as some have had. Loosen the Through Bolt of mount using a 13mm socket with two 8" extensions.
19. Loosen bottom bracket bolt with 13mm socket, swivel if you have to, and a long extension so ratchet is out of engine compartment (Makes easier to torque loose).
20. Jack the engine up a little using a block of wood to evenly support engine and to take weight off mount.
21. Under car, pull the 13mm? right side (top bracket to engine) bolt.
22. Above the car, pull same 13mm? bolt on left side.
23. Pull 14mm? nut off battery ground cable, and there is a 13mm bolt/stud under that. Bingo! Mount should be free. Jack engine up JUST enough to wiggle mount UP and out the front of the car.
24. With mount out of car, there are two 10mm bolts holding bottom bracket to mount, and one 13/16"? nut holding top bracket to mount. Note how the mount points downward on the top piece as reinstall needs to be same way. A Bench Vise helps at this point. DON'T THROW AWAY THE TWO BRACKETS! The new mount is assembled same as disassembly. There is a trick for the rubber stopper if it is all worn out. Take a small piece of 5/8"? heater hose and slide over top of the torque piece. That helps avoid a false knock sensor if engine toques and hits the bracket. I used a little gasket sealer to help hold it in place.
Specialty tools/parts I used:
1: Supercharger Spanner Nut Wrench.
2: Power Steering Pulley Puller and Installer (3/8"-16 X 2" long bolt with washers).
3. Tork bits for cowling.
4. IC Tube resealing tape. I have the reuseable gaskets that TBird88 sells.
5. Backyard Mechanics Guide to new cuss words.
Your car seems so uncomplicated once you have done this. It LOOKS more severe than it really is. Good luck!
Thanks to
Digitalchaos's Post and
MatianBob's Post these posts were extremely helpful...