A.b.s. P.o.s.

tek2

Registered User
im sooo sick of fords first generation abs system i had a close encounter with an f-350 in my 35th because my break pedal became hard as a rock i took it to vernon whos shop is right down the street from me in magnolia and we came to the conclusion that the pump is goin out it works now but i dont want to have to trust it i want to swith over to non abs booster and master to save the hastle "well a little hastle now is worth more than alot down the road i was wonderin if any of you SC geniuses out there ever thought the same thing "hey non abs worked for years on the mustangs" i was thinkin of gettin a master and booster for a non abs t-bird and run new lines to the rear " abs has one lx has 2 and gettin some braided hoses for the back bhr racing has every length and configuration i could need for cheap if anyone has any input i would love it sorry about the novle please help though
 
I'm for keeping the Teves II ABS, but then again I understand it, so its not been a big problem for me. Probably its 2 biggest drawbacks are the accumulator wears out after about 10 years, and it has electrical parts (motor, relay, switches) which can wear out, just like starters and alternators and leave you w/o power assist.

But as far as replacing it with a vaccuum type booster+MC, its worth a try I suppose. Might have to get the steel lines custom made to hook it up. That is unless you have the right tools for working with steel lines. Whatever you do, don't use brass ;)
 
Yes I'm changing mine over as well. I decided to do it over a year ago but I have so many other things on the car to work on I havent gotten to it yet.
You will have to run new rear hard metal lines to the back brakes, I'm not sure about the fronts yet. You need to know how to bend tubing as well as how to flare the tubing but the job is cake really.
I'm not replacing mine because I dont understand the system. I'm replacing it because I DO understand it and its an antique worthless piece of **** that is constantly breaking in one way or another. The price for a rebuilt Tieves unit is rediculous and I know of 2 of those that have gone out as well.
I really dont understand how anybody can defend the worthless hunk of junk myself. I want to know that 99% of the time the brakes are going to be there, not 50% of the time.
The brakes on a car are one of the most if not the most important system on a car. Why would anyone in there right mind want to take a chance with a system that has such a horrible track record for dependability?:rolleyes:
 
For those of you deciding to part with your Teves IIs, feel free to PM me when you want to get rid of the old unit and have your normal M/Cs installed.
 
isnt the reason the pump is electric and it doesnt have a normal vaccuum assist because the car has little vacuum when driving?? I understand that there is vacuum when you are off the gas or idling but wouldnt it take some time to use it for the assist?
 
WHAT TO DO ???????????????

Ripper said:
isnt the reason the pump is electric and it doesnt have a normal vaccuum assist because the car has little vacuum when driving?? I understand that there is vacuum when you are off the gas or idling but wouldnt it take some time to use it for the assist?
IWAS UNDER THE SAME THOUGHT ALSO....WHO HAS CHAGED AND COULD THEY TELL US ALL THAT IS INVOLVED.....FAST FREDDIE:confused: :confused: :cool: :cool: :cool: :) :) :)
 
yeah man... dont go with the POWER BRAKE crap... it doesnt work... u need atleast 16 inches - 24 inches of vacuum for the brake booster to accurately work... since the supercharger makes BOOST also... u will never get the pedal to work as it would on any other car equipped with a booster. You can get it to work but you will have to buy a VACUUM PUMP for the BOOSTER. I have the power booster in my car and the pedal is spongy and the brake light turns on about 3/4 of the way down. I dont recommend it man.. just my experience with it. I say u just deal with it man and get a new parts for it.
 
I can see how the boost side of the intake could cause a problem, but if you hook the vaccuum line onto the throttle side of the intake before the SC, shouldn't that give you a solid vaccuum?

You might have to do something to cut a hole in the plenum and make a fitting, but that side always works with a vaccuum.. Oh, and the other thing I've heard that you usually need is a check valve in the booster line.
 
trust me man... i have the whole thing set exactly like u just explained right now about the vac line being before the supercharger.... it doesnt work... the pedal is spongy... i have like 3 check valves on the brake booster...
 
You're right TbirdSCfan If there hooked up in the right place they work just fine.
My other 2 forced induction cars work just perfectly with normal power brakes and they even came from the factory that way. I have never had brake problems on any of my other cars........only this one.

Darkstar_one did'nt your dad put a booster and master cylinder from a Mustang on your car? I remember talking with you about on the board back in the summer when the job got done and you were pretty upset with him for that. Maybe I have you confused with someone else, if so please accept my opology.
You dont need 3 check valves in the line. Spongy brakes = air in the lines.
 
Hmmm? What to do????
I'd trade the Teves System for a new Booster System, then again I am worried by doing this, what will be affected, like the ARC System, and will the EEC be affected???

Besides, I really like spending the whole weekend trying to get around the M/C when doing a spark plug change, or lower IC tube removal, or motor mount, jeez! Why haven't I ripped it out yet???..:rolleyes:

Three check valves don't sound right to me either. And if there was BOOST on the TB side of the SC, you wouldn't be able to suck air into the SC. The SC sucks air (Vacuum) and blows the compressed air (Boost) out the other end.
 
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to tell u the truth mike i dont even know what the hell he put in it.. im still pissed... the only thing though is that the wheels dont lock up under emergency braking... it comes to a stop with out the wheels locking up... dont know man.. i still dont like the fact that the brake lights turn on 3/4 of the way down... it sucks for traffic... ima find out what the hell he put in... i think ima clean my old ABS system and replace the accumulator and pop it back into its place...

im tired of the spongy pedal..
 
My brake lights used to come on in my 35th. I drove it for over a year that way and just last wensday I finally replaced the accumilator. WOW! What a difference a new accumilator makes from the previous worn out one.

Stick with the Teves II system.

Shane
 
Hey 35th,
So what difference did it make? Better pedal feel? Or just making that annoying lights go away?
 
Bob if the pump and pump motor are good and working at 100% the lights going out will be the only thing noticeable. But if either of those 2 items are worn and not performing 100% you may notice increased performance.
The accumulator is like an air tank on a air compressor it only stores up uneeded energy until its needed.
Problem is if you drive around very much at all with a bad accumulator you will wear out the pump and pump motor because it has to run everytime you touch the brakes.
I drove mine for 1 1/2 months with a bad accumulator and when I pulled the unit off the firewall the paint on the pump motor was all burnt off from the heat of the pump motor running everytime I touched the brakes. That tells me the time window to replace the accumulator is pretty narrow once it goes bad before the other parts can no longer take the added work duty.
 
BobGPz said:
Hey 35th,
So what difference did it make? Better pedal feel? Or just making that annoying lights go away?

Better pedal feel, inproved stopping distances, and no more lock-up. Now it is time to put on some new rotors and carbon fiber brake pads.

Shane
 
Mike

I pulled the complete ABS System out today, (Dang I'm getting good at this:D)
The paint is GONE, I think mainly from the Pressure Switch leaking fluid all over it, in either case I think your right about my pump. It is dead. I was thinking of taking it apart and rebuilding it, but the black casing is indented over a lip on the aluminum end plate. If I try to pry out the indented case, I'm SURE I will warp the aluminum plate.
I still have that junkyard unit and it has a pump and accumulator on it. Do I dare put it all back together and try it? Can I test it somehow before putting it on with my ohm meter?
 

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Is it the pump or the motor which is bad? Anyways, assuming its the motor, I'd see if I could salvage the one from the junk unit, and keep the best parts you can. If your accumulator is shot, you have nothing really to loose by using the one from the junk unit. Measure the fitting size to be sure it will work. You can get away with a shorter fitting, but not a longer one.. :)
You can test the motor by hooking it up to the battery and seeing if it spins. If it does, it probably works fine.

I know you're having a time of it, but in the longer run I think it'll turn out to be easier just to fix the HCU, than to refit to a vaccuum unit. Not saying its better, but easier. You might consider a new accumulator some time in your future. When you see the lights start to come on and then go out while driving... that will be your cue.
 
Yeah that Accumulator is history. I guess I'm going to have to get another from Prior Reman..instead of being the guinea pig on the LX Unit. My dad and I tried hooking up the pump to a battery charger on my pump before the replacement of the pressure switch (We were seeing if the pump was shot) and it would NOT turn over, yet after putting the pump in WITH a new switch it worked fine.?.?.? I will try to hook mine and the junkyard unit to the battery today and see which one works....ain't going to put back on till I get a new accumulator, that will keep me from frying that one...:rolleyes:
 
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