I want a little more bump from my system, with out putting in a sub box or new amp. would a 8 inch Rockford Fosgate in the stock box be good? and can some one tell me how to do it and what i would need? one more thing, after exhaust and a cool air, what would be the easiest way to a high 14 no gears? the list i put up is what i want, but it looks like my budget is about $2000 and the mods i know i want are a fresh air from SCP, exhaust, and that 8 inch sub, so after that my budget is about $1275.
8 inch sub Q
- Thread starter 92redsc
- Start date
a Fosgate Sub will have higher power requirements than the stock one that is in there now. Not only will it not sound louder, but might actually be worse due to the lack of power it requires. Never tried it though. A new 8" would sound better if you got an aftermarket amp to power it as well. Wiring is another issue 
For more base I would suggest a single 12" w/ amp mounted on the back of the box if you're on a budgett. You'll also need a new deck though as well
For more base I would suggest a single 12" w/ amp mounted on the back of the box if you're on a budgett. You'll also need a new deck though as well i just want something that will be cheap and fit in the stock location, and give me tighter bass. i have never heard a 8 inch sub but i have heard plenty of 10s and 12s. the difference between the stocker and a single 10 is unbeliveable. so i was thinking a 8 had to at least bump a little, right? there are two different subs im looking at, tell me what you think. Sub 1 Sub 2
Night-Ryder
Registered User
The Stocker is a 6.5" isnt it ? so an 8" wouldnt fit not to mention how tight the space is in the factory box an aftermarket sub would be starved of air in there before it could even go boom heheehe.
I also recommend a single 12" with an Amp on the box but u wont need a new deck if u run high level inputs to your amp if it supports it but you will have very minimal control over bass volume if you go this way. I say get a decent deck with Sub control its a very very important feature for over all system clarity.
I also recommend a single 12" with an Amp on the box but u wont need a new deck if u run high level inputs to your amp if it supports it but you will have very minimal control over bass volume if you go this way. I say get a decent deck with Sub control its a very very important feature for over all system clarity.
subwoofer
hey 92redsc, if you are going to go with either of those subs, i would go with sub #1, it has a lower power handling capability so it would be the most efficient, but depending on how powerful the factory amp is, it might not sound as good as you want it to, as to the sub being starved for air, as long as the 8 incher fits in the box after you make the necessary mods to it, you can always stuff the box with polyfill, this will make the sub act like it is in a bigger box. you are going to need a jigsaw, a template and a bag of polyfill(walmart about 3 bucks a bag) and half an hour of free time, it's easy but, if you feel uncomfortable doing this just bring it over and i'll do it, hope this helps,........later's......
hey 92redsc, if you are going to go with either of those subs, i would go with sub #1, it has a lower power handling capability so it would be the most efficient, but depending on how powerful the factory amp is, it might not sound as good as you want it to, as to the sub being starved for air, as long as the 8 incher fits in the box after you make the necessary mods to it, you can always stuff the box with polyfill, this will make the sub act like it is in a bigger box. you are going to need a jigsaw, a template and a bag of polyfill(walmart about 3 bucks a bag) and half an hour of free time, it's easy but, if you feel uncomfortable doing this just bring it over and i'll do it, hope this helps,........later's......
pearl95sc
Registered User
What I did
In my factory sub box, I installed a Kicker Comp 6.5 in. sub. It plays really low and has a nice overall tone. Although, I also have a set of MOMO 12in. subs as well, I just wanted something to give that level sound when I'm not looking for serious bass. As far as amps go, I put a small coustic 160se on the 6.5, which I think is rated at 160rms, not really sure on that though, but it does sound straight.
In my factory sub box, I installed a Kicker Comp 6.5 in. sub. It plays really low and has a nice overall tone. Although, I also have a set of MOMO 12in. subs as well, I just wanted something to give that level sound when I'm not looking for serious bass. As far as amps go, I put a small coustic 160se on the 6.5, which I think is rated at 160rms, not really sure on that though, but it does sound straight.
turbospeed
Registered User
woth 1275 id get
BHJ balancer
underdrive pulleys
5%od pulley
jackshaft aluminium pulley
magnalfow resonator dynomax mufflers
solid motor mountsthe fresh air intake
diff bushings
BHJ balancer
underdrive pulleys
5%od pulley
jackshaft aluminium pulley
magnalfow resonator dynomax mufflers
solid motor mountsthe fresh air intake
diff bushings
92redsc, its far worse for a sub to be under powered than overpowered. if your gonna put in an aftermarket sub, either do it the right way and put a new sub and amp in, or like chorizon said you want one with a low power handling. the stock amp is extremely low powered. the stock amp in your car is 12 years old (the design is probably more like 15 years old) and amps have had huge improvements since the late eighties/early nineties.
i dont know how well a fosgate sub would sound be powered by that thing, and youll probably end up damaging it.
GO BIG OR GO HOME
i dont know how well a fosgate sub would sound be powered by that thing, and youll probably end up damaging it.
GO BIG OR GO HOME
Digitalchaos
Registered User
For the simplicity of just throwing in another 6.5" sub (maybe different mounting holes) try:
This Audax http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...&St3=58879636&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=167793&DID=7
This Dayton
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...37&St3=58879636&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=7769&DID=7
Or this Peerless
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...7&St3=58879636&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=16259&DID=7
Realize that the factory system is probably 6 ohm & there is no good direct application w/o a new amp, but these are probably among the best options. Driver efficiency will be key here, those Rockfords simply won't do with the stock amp.
To add an 8" and a small amp for better sql output (sound quality and volume) than the stock system, try::
This Dayton http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...&St3=58879636&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=121092&DID=7
And This Kicker Amp http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/641
Xmax and surface area here are critical for output. This driver is also known for good sq. This will likely be your most cost effective option out of my 3 suggestions.
This amp is slightly overpowered ensureing that you will not clip. Simply adjust the gains correctly and the speaker will be perfectly fine. I choose Kicker because out of the amps I am familiar with, these are smallest.
To obtain some of the best sound quality and volume output possible with an 8" sub, try:
This Elemental Design A series 8" Driver http://www.edesignaudio.com/ep2/8a.htm
This speaker competes with the JL Audio W7 series for significantly less money. It has high sound quality due to its relatively flat BL curve, and very good output in the 8" class due to very high xmax.. it has more xmax than the Kicker L7, it may also have more total displacement. In addition, it is 5" deep and requires only .2 cubic feet of space, so you could get creative and use it in the factory enclosure. It requires from 200 to 400 watts, depending on application.
Once again, Kicker makes the smallest amps I am familiar with, but there are many amps available and certainly smaller can be found if you look.
Hope that gives you some ideas...
This Audax http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...&St3=58879636&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=167793&DID=7
This Dayton
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...37&St3=58879636&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=7769&DID=7
Or this Peerless
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...7&St3=58879636&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=16259&DID=7
Realize that the factory system is probably 6 ohm & there is no good direct application w/o a new amp, but these are probably among the best options. Driver efficiency will be key here, those Rockfords simply won't do with the stock amp.
To add an 8" and a small amp for better sql output (sound quality and volume) than the stock system, try::
This Dayton http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...&St3=58879636&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=121092&DID=7
And This Kicker Amp http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/641
Xmax and surface area here are critical for output. This driver is also known for good sq. This will likely be your most cost effective option out of my 3 suggestions.
This amp is slightly overpowered ensureing that you will not clip. Simply adjust the gains correctly and the speaker will be perfectly fine. I choose Kicker because out of the amps I am familiar with, these are smallest.
To obtain some of the best sound quality and volume output possible with an 8" sub, try:
This Elemental Design A series 8" Driver http://www.edesignaudio.com/ep2/8a.htm
This speaker competes with the JL Audio W7 series for significantly less money. It has high sound quality due to its relatively flat BL curve, and very good output in the 8" class due to very high xmax.. it has more xmax than the Kicker L7, it may also have more total displacement. In addition, it is 5" deep and requires only .2 cubic feet of space, so you could get creative and use it in the factory enclosure. It requires from 200 to 400 watts, depending on application.
Once again, Kicker makes the smallest amps I am familiar with, but there are many amps available and certainly smaller can be found if you look.
Hope that gives you some ideas...
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subwoofer
92redsc, if i were you i would go with a single alpine type s 10" sub in a small sealed enclosure, this is one of the best subs i have heard in the smaller 10" size for under $150 , i would hook it up to a kicker kx200.2 bridged mono, the good thing about this amp is it's rock solid. and it has a built in crossover, and speaker level inputs, so you won't have to change your stereo, and as to not having much control over the bass, you can get a remote bass control for it, it is like a volume knob for the amp, you can mount it about just about anywhere, under the dash, or if you want to be stealthy you can mount it inside the center console, total cost will be under 400 bucks if you know where to get your stuff, it would sound excellent, hit low and smooth, try it, you might like it.......later's.....
92redsc, if i were you i would go with a single alpine type s 10" sub in a small sealed enclosure, this is one of the best subs i have heard in the smaller 10" size for under $150 , i would hook it up to a kicker kx200.2 bridged mono, the good thing about this amp is it's rock solid. and it has a built in crossover, and speaker level inputs, so you won't have to change your stereo, and as to not having much control over the bass, you can get a remote bass control for it, it is like a volume knob for the amp, you can mount it about just about anywhere, under the dash, or if you want to be stealthy you can mount it inside the center console, total cost will be under 400 bucks if you know where to get your stuff, it would sound excellent, hit low and smooth, try it, you might like it.......later's.....
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subwoofer cont.
another good reason to go with a new sub and amp is because you can take out the original stuff and save it in case you ever decide to sell the car, and put it back in. or you could probably sell it to recoup some of the money you blew on the new sub.....later's.......
another good reason to go with a new sub and amp is because you can take out the original stuff and save it in case you ever decide to sell the car, and put it back in. or you could probably sell it to recoup some of the money you blew on the new sub.....later's.......