brake problem

baddabing80

Registered User
when I hit the brakes the brake lights on dash come on real quick and go off. I just put new pads on and the brakes work pretty good.
 
If what is happening is when you hit the break the brake light comes on first and then the antilock then about 2 secs later the brake light goes off and then the antilock? If so that is the same thing i am fighting and i'm not for sure what to look for. I have a 92 auto sc and mine has been doing it for awhile. Things are ok and i am stoping so i'm not for sure what the problem is. If anybody could help us out that would be great.
 
Concur. Bob knows too well. ;) Both of you have a worn out accumulator. Your brakes will work OK, but you should know that the antilock won't work and you have no rear brakes. :( :eek:

Don't wait too long to replace it as it will cause the pump motor to run more than it should and possibly wear it out sooner. Those are pricey. Also if you go too long, eventually you'll lose power assist. I wouldn't advise going more than a month or so.

Do a search on brake accumulator to find parts and suppliers, this topic comes up a LOT.
 
Prior Remanufacturing

Contact Prior Remanufacturing at (800)444-4821 or www.priorreman.com (ask for Rick Fletcher). They will sell you an accumulator for around $100.00 (tell them it is for the Teves Mark II, they don't have a part# for it on the web site).
 
Yeah, you will burn up the ABS Pump for sure. Trust me..and Rick Fletcher is a good guy. He had my accumulator to me in 3 days! I think if you mention the SCCOA.com, you get a discount. Should run you $99.95 + Shipping. You won't beleive how much better my brakes are since the new Accumulator...:)
 
Thank you so much fot this info. It has been over a month. But 100.00 is nothing if this fixes the problem. I had another problem on here and other sc members helped me fix it. Thank you again and do you know how hard it is to change this part out? Just curious.
 
With the Key OFF!!!, Fully pump the brake pedal like 20 or 30 times. CAUTION: It is VERY important to do this as this will depressurize the Accumulator of the 2,600 psi or so that it is holding. DO NOT turn the ignition switch on after you have depressurized the system or you'll have to do it again. I removed the negative battery cable but some often just pull the ABS Fuse instead so no power can go to the pump. To remove the accumulator, you will need an Allen wrench to fit into the top of it. You'll notice the new one does NOT have this allen on top. Use a box end wrench on the end of the allen wrench for some leverage if needed. It unscrews counter-clockwise. Once it is broke free, it should unscrew by hand fairly easilly. Put a little clean brake fluid on O-Ring on the new Accumulator and screw it into the pump clockwise. Get it tight with your hands only, THINK it is only like 25-30ft lbs of torque. Turn key on and you should hear the pump motor fill the accumulator which may take about 30 seconds. Some fluid may leak during removal so don't let it get on your fender paint...
 
BobGPz thank you so much now all i need to do is put in the order and see how things go. I'll let you know but thank you very very much for all your help. And to everbody else that has posted.
 
If you do not have clearance to remove the accumulator, you can loosen the whole assembly from the firewall (4 nut/studs under the dash), or loosen the plastic cowling under the windshield. If you go for the underdash way, its cramped and sort of hard to get to stuff. Also, don't forget to reattach the cruise control cutout which is they yellow plunger way up on the brake pedal arm. It will pop out and leave you scratching your head as to why your cruise control won't work. Note where its at to start with, its held in with a clip and must be in just the right position.
 
Looks like I need to change my acumulator as well. My light is on still after changing the ABS Modual. Guess the new one had a bad acumulator.
 
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