Other mods req'd when lowering car....

MarineMustanger

Registered User
What other things are you guys doing to the suspension, to correct steering geometry, when you are putting lowering springs in?

I know for the Mustang there are caster/camber plates, spherical tie rod ends for bumpsteer, shorter sway bar end links and even different front ball joints available to correct the steering geometry.

By the way, I noticed Shox.com doesn't sell the Bilstein shocks for the Tbird anymore. Does anybody have the non-adj Tokicos? How are they?

Thanks.
 
What other things are you guys doing to the suspension, to correct steering geometry, when you are putting lowering springs in?

Get an alignment after the springs settle.

That is all you need to do. Anything further upgrades are optional.
 
Depends on how low you go..You can only compensate with the alignment so much. You can get the shorter end links fo rteh front which is a good idea...But the rear youd actually hav eto cut and reweld teh factory ones...Unless someone has come up with something..

NOW SOMEONE SHOULD PUT TOGETEHR END LINKS FOR 1.5 INCH LOWERED CARS,.,THEY WOULD SELL!
 
its the other way around...you can go out and buy new rear endlinks that are shorter, but the fronts require you to cut them a little shorter and weld em back up.
 
I have my car lowered 1.5 inches with Eibach and had shorter end links installed from supercoupeperformance.com. Works GREAT! It handles SO much better!
 
I remember seeing a post...

By a guy who's chucking (or chucked) a 347 in his T-bird.

At any rate, he has a web page that details full instructions on modifying the suspension front and rear to provide for more adjustment range of all pertinent alingment specs. This info is useful for those who have lowered themselves more than 1.5".

I don't have a link but if you do a search, you'll be able to find out what I'm talking about.
 
I bought the Tokico Illumina II's from shox.com. They are "okay". They still provide the same ride feel as stock and probably a little bit better on firm, but it was so hard to tell because my shocks were not too good after 74K. Also, there was this "thocking" sound coming from the rear right shock, but it was not leaking or loose or anything. I was just happy to have the thocking sound gone, but back to the subject. I have read in many places that those with the Illumina II's almost always have them on "firm". I do as well, that is why my recommendation would be to go with Bilstein or Koni. I have heard good things from people who have owned the Illumina's and then switched to either of those two aforementioned shocks. The only thing is you'll have to disable the ride control stuff.
 
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