It's running better

35th T-bird SC

Registered User
I guess the computer had to re-learn. My car runs pretty good. Idles fine even when cold. Around 750 rpm. My main issue is still the shifting. It's undriveable until I get that fixed. Won't go into gear unless I'm sitting at the driveway. How much boost should I have with opened up exhaust? I have ported manfolds, no cats, and a flowmaster resonator with 2.5" back to two flowmaster mufflers. I was getting around 7-8 psi at full throttle the other day when I was seating the rings. I have a 5% pulley I want to put on to raise that. Is it just from the exaust or do I have a SC problem? Or air leak? I also have a humming sound under the hump at the shifter, sounds like an electric motor from underneath. Worn input shaft bearing on the tranny. I was gonna take it to a tranny shop to have the flywheel shimmed and to check out my tranny.
 
Hey 35th T-bird SC

I am running stock manifolds with gutted cats , stock resonator, and stock mufflers....

My boost comes on strong from the get GO and runs up to a average of 11psi on the guage..... Sometimes I can get up to 14 if I downshift and and hit WOT...

I would say for average eveyday crusing around town I have lost around 2-3 psi cause boost should be 13-14psi all the time and I am getting around 11psi norm....

I am alright with this and can accept it because do to the fact I have gutted my cats there is a much better chance of not blowing the HGs and that is cool I want it to last awhile.. The motor also runs much cooler with out all the heat building up in the cats this is also a good thing... You do however want a good operating temp for the motor to be as efficient as possible..... My last motor got so hot with cats the studs for the rocker arms actually are sized into the heads and I cannot get them out I am told this is a common problem when aluminium gets too hot....

If you hit WOT and your boost guage shoots right up to 5 + psi and then starts to build boost you have boost leaks somewhere... Good LUCK
 
running better

Hey 35th, glad to hear it's running better. Did you finally get it going? As for the boost, after I got mine back together after doing the HG's, I was getting about 10+. Now with the 5% od pulley from BT, I got 13+, close to 14. Good luck with your transmission. Hope you get everything going good again.

David
 
I know it's not enough boost. Can anyone give me the steps of things to check associated with boost. I thought about pulling the blower top and inspecting the inside of the rotors because I really knew nothing about this car when I bought it. No check engine lights as of yet. That suprised me. 20 in of vacuum at idle. No problems with the tevves II brakes (no abs lights) knock on wood.
 
Opening up the intake, larger MAF, TB and CAI should help increase your boost since you will be getting rid of some of the restrictions.
 
There is a good right up by vernon in the FAQ about boost leaks...

Make sure all tubes are sealed from SC to intercooler and from intercooler to lower intake( check that gasket) I use T-bird 88s gasket they work real well.. Any leaks after MAF and throttle body will rob boost so check all connections....like CAP and PCV and MainVac...There is a line that goes back to a tree that is right in the middle under the cowl trim... Check the engine vent tub that runs from the drivers side valve cover to the MAF tube to throttle body and check the bypass valve....some go back to the connection behind throttle body others run to a solinoid behind driverside shock tower... If I think of any thing else Ill let you know.....
 
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