a/c delete, shorter belt

supercatxr7

Registered User
Anyone have a part number for the belt to use when the A/C is totally removed from the car? Also the correct way to run the belt. I have underdrive pulleys also.
 
This is what I used an 8-rib Goodyear Gatorback 4080525 from summitracing.com , There is also one size bigger 4080535 . The pulleys I am using are: Asp crank, stock wp, stock alt , 3-inch tensioner.

Or you can use a six ribs 4060525 or Kelly 525k6 from autozone.
 

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AC delete

This is how I did mine. I reversed the ideler pulley direction.

acdelete.jpg


I used a 53" belt.
 
Mark,

Are you planning to go faster this year? What else have you done since your 12.50 run? We need to get together this year for a match race.
*fastest SC in Michigan shootout*
There are some mustang guys renting out Norwalk raceway on April 14th (Wednesday). It's like $65 for all day as many runs as you want.
 
It's probably better if you can cut it on the car cause the belt would keep it from swinging out. I did mine on the bench and I had to hold it in a vice and when I cut the tab off the pulley just kicked out till the spring was neutral.
 
upgrades..

Thanks for the reply all. Not too much in the way of upgrades this year. I have some chassis bracing coming as well as an aluminum drive shaft. I also have a wideband 02 on the car now, so I might be able to have it tweaked a little more. You should sign up for the v6 shootout at milan, here's the link:

www.v6fordchallenge.com
 
I signed up for the Ford v6 challenge.
Hopefully it will work out. My wife is pregnant and May 30th is her due date.
I told her she's can deliver early or late or alone. (no not really).
 
got the belts...

But what are you guys doing for tension on the belt? Seeing as the tensioner is going towards the alternator. Does removing the tab on the spring push it out the other way to provide tension on the belt?
 
Removing the tab allows the tensioner to go to the neutral position on the spring. Then you just wind it up the other way and make tension in the oposite direction.
 
you gotta wind it up after you cut the tabs ?? i didnt read this before ? is this correct ? i'm about to do this in a cpl days .. Alex L
 
The tensioner spring is wound up and held into place by the tab. When you cut the tab, it allows the tensioner spring to completely unwind and go to a neutral position. You will have to wind it in the opposite direction for it to create tension opposite of it's factory intended direction.
 
SuperCoupeSC91 said:
dam and i gotta remove the water neck now ? or else the tensioner bracket will hit it ?? i dont think ppl should of recomemded to do this on the car.. all this extra work now ? instead of taking the pulley houseing and doing it on a vice ???? thanks ??? Alex L
1. cut the tab with the belt still around the pulley.
2. remove the belt
3. unbolt the tensioner assembly, carefully, it will want to swing towards the alternator but not too bad.
4. after the tensioner is off, grind the 2 posts off the back of it.
5. reinstall the tensioner and hold it tight as you can against the upper rad. hose tube while you reef on the bolt.
6. finally route the new belt like the above pics around the top of the tensioner.
i don't know how long of a belt you will need. i have the stock pullies with a 56" 8 rib belt and it slips a little. i'll be getting a 55" soon. let me know if you have anymore questions. it's really simple once you understand how it works. good luck.
 
just got done.. i removed it all its not as bad as ppl claim it to be.. yeah there was barelly any tension on it a lil after it came up by the alternator..now i gotta figure out how to wind it up the other way ??alex L
 
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SuperCoupeSC91 said:
just got done.. i removed it all its not as bad as ppl claim it to be.. yeah there was barelly any tension on it a lil after it came up by the alternator..now i gotta figure out how to wind it up the other way ??alex L
leave all the tension off the pulley then hold it up to the pipe with one hand and tighten the tensioner bolt with the other hand. the pulley should be at about the 8 or9 o' clock position. now if you push it toward the bottom of the engine it should have tension on it. that's it.
 
i ended up doin another way, i chopped the skinner piece (1 of 2 tabs) in the back of the tensioner piece that bolts up to the bracket, and sticking the 1 tab left outside of the tensioner bracket piece and pushed down on it and screwed it in and then i had nice tension on it for the upwards position, with a 5 rib 56" goodyear gatorback belt.idle's good now i gotta see if when i get on it if it will slip.i'll find out tomorrow.. Alex L
 
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SuperCoupeSC91 said:
i ended up doin another way, i chopped the skinner piece (1 of 2 tabs) in the back of the tensioner piece that bolts up to the bracket, and sticking the 1 tab left outside of the tensioner bracket piece and pushed down on it and screwed it in and then i had nice tension on it for the upwards position, with a 5 rib 56" goodyear gatorback belt.idle's good now i gotta see if when i get on it if it will slip.i'll find out tomorrow.. Alex L
mine would only squeal if i nailed it from a roll and let off the gas real fast. a shorter belt should work for me.
 
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