To any with the MP FMIC

Wings Dirty

Registered User
Ok, so I installed the MP FMIC and Aluminum radiator from Mike 38sc a couple of days ago.

I do not see a boost increase or decrease as compared to the OEM IC.

I have noticed, however that vacuum is sitting at approx 11-12 Inches or Mercury. I have done a vacuum leak test with a can of TB Cleaner, and ofcourse, included all new IC tube connections.

What are you guys with the FMIC's seeing for boost and Vacuum?

OEM top
Deleted Cats, magnaflow resonator and mufflers.
 
The pressure drop of the stock intercooler is 3.5psi max and the MP is a .5 psi pressure drop according to MP's website. These are Max values, so without an aftermarket boost gauge, I think it would be a hard comparison. With the MP setup, you gain more in the lower air intake temperatures over the stock inlet temps.
 
I do have an aftermarket Autometer gauge. Granted, Autometer is not what it used to be for accuracy, but it's not that much off from the OEM boost gauge.

And yes, I did notice lower temps on the IC tubing. But I would have thought Lower air temp, the denser the air, hence more boost???
 
If you have a stock cam you should see around 20 In Hg of vacuum at hot idle. Get a good external vacuum guage and hook it up where the factory guage goes. I would think you would have cold start and idle issues if you really are at 12 In Hg on a stock cam.

Did you remove the SC top? Use RTV copper or Permatex Anarobic Gasket maker for the sealing surfaces.


Jerry
 
Shockwave,

I will have to get a qaulity vac. gauge as you suggested.

As far as the SC top...

All I could find was that Blue RTV sealant. The sensor safe kind, mind you :rolleyes: . haha.

But seriously, the car seems to idle at around 900rpm when hot, and pulling 11-12 inches on both gauges.

Time to spend more $$ on the vacuum gauge. :(
 
900 rpms sounds high to me. A vacuum leak will cause a high idle. Tell us more about your car. 5 speed or Auto? What have you done to the engine as far as mods?
 
Nothing fancy as of yet.

Its a 90 Auto, Magnecor wires, autolite 2X platinums, the FMIC, a mike 38sc radiator, and poly bushings. Ofcourse, deleting the cats and going to a custom free flow exhaust was the very first mod.

The car idled at around 600-650 before the swap, so I'm starting to suspect a vacuum leak somewhere.

I tried pulling codes, but nothing showed up besides something about TB voltage??? being out of range. Something that it's been saying since I got her last year.
 
Yes idling at 900 RPM you have a vac leak somewhere. I suspect that plenum adapter that came with the FMIC kit. Check it out real good as thats the only joint left in the system now with the funky Ford flange. The only other joint in the new system I would suspect is that 120 deg or so elbow on the inlet side of the IC itself. Make sure the clamps are posistioned good and tightened properly. I'll be Emailing you soon. :)
 
TPS voltage should be below 1 volt at idle. Ford book calls for around .8 volts. The fact that you have had a tps voltage code for some time makes me think you should check that voltage with a VOM. A bad IAC can also throw a tps code because the engine is idling at a higher rpm than the TPS voltage would suggest to the EEC. Still think you have a vacuum leak though, just some food for thought.

Jerry
 
Wings if your increased idle speed and low vac reading started after your FMIC install then thats where the problem is. The IAC will not cause the vac reading to be that low unless the engine is idling at 2,000 RPM or so. I've never had a bad IAC cause a TPS code either, thats just not possable. My IAC was so bad you could have taken it off the throttle body and thrown it out in the yard just leaving an empty hole in the throttlebody and the engine would not have idled any higher, and I had no code for TPS.
 
I apreciate the suggestions.

I was bored today, and pulled KOEO codes. Good as Mike's radiator may be, I don't think it would work too well with almost no coolant in it, and a leaking Water pump. :D

I got

21: Cooling Temperature Sensor Out of Specified Range or ECT out of Range
24: Intake Air Charge Temperature (ACT, IAT) sensor or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) Sensor out of Rage.
10: Separation Code

Ok, 21 and 24 I can understand, since the engine was not running, and it was cold.

10 I have no problem wit

66: VAF/mass airflow sensor fault, below minimum voltage.

This is the code I was talking about earlier


I will most likely take the Rad. and IC off this weekend, to replace a teeny little part, that went out two days after I installed everything....THE WATER PUMP...

I will triple check all the IC connections, and make sure they are nice and tight. :D
 
MIKE 38sc said:
Wings if your increased idle speed and low vac reading started after your FMIC install then thats where the problem is. The IAC will not cause the vac reading to be that low unless the engine is idling at 2,000 RPM or so. I've never had a bad IAC cause a TPS code either, thats just not possable. My IAC was so bad you could have taken it off the throttle body and thrown it out in the yard just leaving an empty hole in the throttlebody and the engine would not have idled any higher, and I had no code for TPS.


Well on our 91 SC we bought a couple of months ago it had a 2000 rpm idle. The car had three codes one was tps either 124 or 125 can't remember which and the other two were 176 and 543. The O2 sensor was causing both 176 and 543 codes due to the way the O2 sensor heater circuit is tied into the fuel pump circuit. I changed the IAC and the O2 at the same time then cleared codes Upon clearing the codes everything was gone and the car has been code free ever since. In my experience one code can sometimes cause other codes. A long time agon a 85 Grand Marquis had about three or four codes and one was TPS code 23. The actual problem was the EGR not fully seating due to carbon buildup. This caused EGR codes and a few others. A new EGR cleared up all the codes.


Jerry
 
replaced my water pump a few weeks ago and had a leak at the innercooler and the car wouldnt even idle. once i figuered out where the leak was i tightened the i.c. joint with the engine idling at about 200 rpm and with each turn off the clamp bolt the rpms came up to normal until it was running like a top. i couldn't believe an i.c. leak would do this. it was sucking pretty good though,sounded like the altenator bearing was .dry as a bone. i work on diesel trucks with intercoolers and a ton of electronics and a leaking i.c. line dosn't do anything to them, im learning a little along. all the info you guys are teaching me is great.
 
Shockwave said:
Well on our 91 SC we bought a couple of months ago it had a 2000 rpm idle. The car had three codes one was tps either 124 or 125 can't remember which and the other two were 176 and 543. The O2 sensor was causing both 176 and 543 codes due to the way the O2 sensor heater circuit is tied into the fuel pump circuit. I changed the IAC and the O2 at the same time then cleared codes Upon clearing the codes everything was gone and the car has been code free ever since. In my experience one code can sometimes cause other codes. A long time agon a 85 Grand Marquis had about three or four codes and one was TPS code 23. The actual problem was the EGR not fully seating due to carbon buildup. This caused EGR codes and a few others. A new EGR cleared up all the codes.


Jerry

Jerry there are times when strange codes appear to come out of nowhere on the EEC IV systems and there reffered to as Phantom codes. The fella at www.fordfuelinjection.com can explain it much better than I can. Theres contact info there where you can contact him.
 
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