Arghh! Busted crank bolt, how do I get it out?

89Silverbird

Registered User
My car died the other day and threw a CPS code. I checked into my problem more today and I found that my balancer has walked out about 1-1/2cm which was enough to cause the vanes on the back of the HB to no longer pass inside the CPS. Noticing this, I checked for the big bolt in the center of the balancer, and what really sucks, it it's still there, but it's sheared off. There's no head on the bolt. I pulled off the crank pulley, but the balancer is still on there with the sheared off bolt in it. How the hell am I supposed to get the HB off now? I read on into some posts from a search I did, but I don't have a clue how to get a drill up in there and what exactly I'm supposed to do because all I could find was the fact that if I had a piece of the bolt there, I'd have to drill it. Any help please!
 
this Might Work

Have you Thought of a Easy Out it Might work if you known how to use it if not then good luck look for that damn part Later :D
 
Crank bolt

Extremely carefully, a freind rushed the job and damaged the crank, so he had to pull the engine to replace it. Remove the fan and rad to get enough space so you can drill it straight. Better to use a very small drill bit first and then go up in size. Good luck
 
I've managaed to break two bolts so far ..and both times they came out easy..reversible drill with a stanley [straight bit] and a dremel to make a slot..in the bolt... Zoom Zoom ..... you may need to buy a puller to get the balancer off with...they are really cheap mine was 7 bucks CND ....here's the kick in the nutz ...you may need a new balancer ....if there seems to be no play in the balancer ..on the key in the crankshaft ...try a new bolt and washer {Mustang bolt} SC bolt is now NA ....if you get it back together ..and the pulley that the belts run on wobbles at all ....balancer is on it's way out...
......the real fun part... is trying to tighten the crank bolt up...so will need to lock tranny torque converter... or find #1 cyclinder on a combustion stroke ..so the valves are closed and stick some rope in the spark plug hole to lock up the motor....dave
 
try the slot and screwdriver thing first. if mercsc got two out like that it will obviously work. if it dosnt and i was a ninteen year old college student ,or a 12 year mechanic , i would try to find a more experienced person to help with the easy outs. if it breaks off its a mess, still fixable ,but very stressful and time comsuming.
 
I have also broken 2 bolts and balancers. I drilled and used a screw extractor the 1st time. P.I.T.A. The second time I used a reverse drill bit, it came right out. Most hardware stores have the reverse bits. If they didn't use Locktite on the bolt it should be fairly loose as it's not bottomed out on install. Check your balancer very carefully, if there is any doubt about it's integrity replace it or you may be doing the same job a couple of months from now.
I've gone with a BHJ steel balancer because I just don't trust the stock unit anymore. It cost about the same but be aware you may have to hone it to fit your crank and should balance it to your pulley or get a zero balance pulley. What ever you do, don't use a junkyard balancer or bolt. If you need to replace it make sure it's new. I paid $5 for a used balancer and bolt and thought it was a great deal. It lasted about 300 miles.
 
Thanks for the ideas guys! I just got back from Checker with a balancer puller. I already drained the radiator and pulled it, so I'm pretty much set to get this thing out of there. I'm gonna go ahead and try the dremel and screw-out method and then go from there. I'll keep you guys updated! :cool:
 
minbe said:
Check your balancer very carefully, if there is any doubt about it's integrity replace it or you may be doing the same job a couple of months from now.....I paid $5 for a used balancer and bolt and thought it was a great deal. It lasted about 300 miles.
Good advice as this is very common. If the HB walked forward on the crankshaft, you can be 90% sure it won't seat anymore and will snap the new bolt again. A new one is needed. The OEM one is a use once type of part due to the aluminum inner sleeve.
 
vancouverBC said:
Extremely carefully, a freind rushed the job and damaged the crank, so he had to pull the engine to replace it. Remove the fan and rad to get enough space so you can drill it straight. Better to use a very small drill bit first and then go up in size. Good luck






I know that guy real well.... Like my friend in Vancouver says. Be careful. do a search as their are a number of good threads on this topic.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14051&page=2&pp=15&highlight=bolt

Old but fairly complete
 
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