Is Coil Pack OK??

Hi Gang -

Having some rough running issues. Started up the other day and about a 1/4 mile from takeoff car started bucking as though running on 3 cylinders. Thought my HG's blew. No smoke or antifreeze smell. Coolant is green. Pulled dipstick with engine running and oil was about 2" above full mark. Dropped oil to see if anything floating or bad color - oil is dark(old) and nothing floating. After ran codes, came up with "216" - leads to coil pack failure. After I limped home, I didn't start car for two days. Check everything I could think of, then started up. To my surprise, the car ran
as if nothing was ever wrong.

I tested the coil pack today and got the following readings: 12.78, 12.76,12.76. When I tested the 4 prong connections got "0" all the was across. This is with Ohm meter set at 20K.

Are the reading consistant with a good pack or should it be replaced?

When I ran the tests with a code scanner, failed the spout test. Started with spout out and ran ok. When put spout back in, no increase in idle.
This is leading me to think the DIS module might be going.

Sorry for the novel, but as usual, trying to provide as much info as I can.

Any input?

Thanks,
Mark
'93 SC - Currently rewiring for sound!!

Your coil pack sounds fine. If you pull codes, and it states something about "coil circuit failure", understand that the coil is only part of the coil circuit. The DIS/ICM is what fires the coils and has the brains to report a problem. Then again, if you know how to use the spout test, you already know that. The DIS/ICMs tend to fail regularly, so check the codes and consider replacing it with a test unit or a new one.

Yeah!!!

Changed the DIS for one I had in my closet. That seems to have done it!!
Rolled into the garage spot huffing and puffing - rolled out a happy camper.

You were right about the failed spout test - that should have led me to the DIS first!!! I was looking at the coil pack cause I got the "216" code with the koeo test before the spout test.

Thanks for the help.

Mark
'93 SC - Running better - stereo 3/4 done - what can I say - old and slow!!

Had a code 217, about to throw a Motorcraft DIS in mine to see if I can fix it. A 217 is the same thing, just a different coil. Hopefully it works.

Brian

Nope.....

Changed the DIS - ran ok all the way to work. On the way home, started crapping out and chugging again.

Tomorrow I'm going to see if I can get a Cam Sensor. Also have to check for arching wire.

Mark
'93 SC

Pull codes again just to be sure. When you replaced the DIS, did you install a new or used one and did you apply a razor thin layer of heat sink compound to the base?

OK - Here's an update:

Started car and ran ok - for a block or so then chugged all the way to work.
When I got there, raised the hood and pulled the plug wires one at a time while the engine was running.

The outer two coils had spark. The middle coil had nothing on either plug. Essentially I had a very heavy economy car - a 6cyl running on 4 cyl's.

Hopefully, I will get my hands on a coil pack this weekend and be up and running.

Thanks for the support.

Mark
'93 SC

Saw one on eBay recently. Check it out. [Never mind.. not there now.]

I'm surprised yours is a problem especially after you did resistance checks and came up with everything consistent, but I guess it can happen. be sure your connectors are good; try wiggling wires around while the engine is running poorly.

I was suprised too about the readings I got when I tested the coil pack. Mainly because I got a code "216". Then I remembered I tested it cold. It seems that when I first start in the morning, the car is cold from sitting overnight - hence it will run good until it starts to warm up. Then it craps out. By the time I get my new 4 cyl car to work - long trip of 7 miles - the car is now hot. I didn't get a chance to test the coil pack when it is hot and running rough but my bets are on it being shot.

I saw the new one on ebay - it's back again.

I'll post more when I change coil packs. I still have to throughly check the wires too. Couldn't get to the passenger side.

Mark
'93 SC

MSG419 said:

I was suprised too about the readings I got when I tested the coil pack. Mainly because I got a code "216". Then I remembered I tested it cold. It seems that when I first start in the morning, the car is cold from sitting overnight - hence it will run good until it starts to warm up. Then it craps out. By the time I get my new 4 cyl car to work - long trip of 7 miles - the car is now hot. I didn't get a chance to test the coil pack when it is hot and running rough but my bets are on it being shot.

I saw the new one on ebay - it's back again.

I'll post more when I change coil packs. I still have to throughly check the wires too. Couldn't get to the passenger side.

Mark
'93 SC

Click to expand...

I had the same problem with my car.I had the codes ran and came up with the same code and a couple other ones.I went to autozone and bought a new DIS module and it fixed the problem.Now though i'm not having that same problem with the staggering and studdering anymore my check engine light will come on for a few seconds every now and then and sometimes it don't fire right up i might have to try it once or twice,and that was what my car was doing right before my DIS went out.I checked into this the last time and everyone was saying to replace the COIL PACK when you replace the Dis.I didn't replace mine so i don't know if that is why my car is doing what it's doing or that stinking cheap DIS i bought from autozone is going bad again.Look up a company called spinningwheels either on here or ebay they sell a used combo set of the DIS and the COIL PACK together for $75.00 (i'm pretty sure that was the price).Good luck and let us know what you come up with.
David

Its probably safe practice to replace the coil pack at the same time as the DIS, but I just shake my head as I cannot see how it could be partially defective. It is a bunch of coiled wires inside another set of coiled wires.. thats it.. there are no electronic internal parts, no resistors, no eletrolytic capacitors, no transistors, no circuit boards, no solder joints, no internal switches, and nothing that slides, spins, moves or thinks.. So how one could fail besides from melting due to outside heat, is just beyond me.

Mark,

My '89 started an intermittent bucking too. It ran just fine probably 2/3 of the time, then did the bucking bronco routine the other third. But it never left me stranded; I could slowly get home every time. Over a week or so, it became more frequent. I'm not sure if those are your exact symptoms, but it sounds similar.

The solution amazed me, and to this day I don't know how it was possible. My mechanic replaced the starter solenoid. That fixed it. It's a cheap effort, at least, if you haven't tried that. Now will someone please 'splain to me how the starter solenoid, which shouldn't be doing anything once the engine is running, could have caused such misery for my poor buggy...?

Sounds like a loose connection in the harness to me. When you check the primary circuit of the coil (the 4 wires in the plug) you will need to set the resistance to the lowest scale you have. Remember that there is 1 hot (+12V) and 3 Grounds. so you leave the lead on the power connection and test the other three terminals.

Jeff

OK - after much cursing and head scratching - the winner is: DIS module.

I also believe the coil pack was weak. I Installed a different coil pack with the readings on all three banks over 13's vs 12's on my old pack. Started up and pulled each plug wire to check spark. Couldn't believe how much stronger the spark is now.

I was lucky - the yard around the corner from me had a Taurus SHO and I was able to swipe the DIS module from it for $50.

Car runs great now. I think I will also change the wires as I noticed they are about 4 years old.

Thanks for all the help. On to the next dilema!!

Mark
'93 SC