Rear brake pads/rotors

Paul93SC

Registered User
I'm about to tackle replacing the rear brake pads & rotors. I have the service manual and it pretty much explains the whole process, but I still have a few questions (for the guys who've already done it).

First, It says I need to remove the slider pins (unlike the fronts where you just unbolt the caliper & anchor bracket together). Should I replace the slider pins and boots while I'm doing this? If so, is there a kit with all the parts included?

Second, Do I need to worry about re-adjusting the parking brake cable assembly? The manual seems to indicate this is necessary. Also, can I replace the pads & rotors without disconnecting these cables from the calipers?

Third, what did you use to screw the pistons back in? I don't want to buy that tool if I don't have to.

Nothing beats first-hand experience, and thats why I'm asking these questions. Thanks in advance for any help/advice you can give...
 
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if I remember correctly Paul you buy a kit that comes with replacement dust boots the slider pins you just clean up with a wire wheel and put some break grease on them before reinstalling them.

As far as moving the pistons in or out for new pads. I just used good old fashioned c clamps. If you can't get them too slide my mechanic told me that they needed to be replaced when I was doing mine. the caliper that is.

I did adjust the e-brake cable but not sure if I did it right so i am not going to advise you on that one.

hope this helps
 
Paul
The slider pins dont come out all you need to do is take the bolt out of the end of them then the caliper will slide off. I would clean the slider pins pins up and re lube them thats all I did since there is no kit you can buy any more with all the parts need. The pins should not have any rust anyhow.

The parking brake cable should not need re-adjusting If anything it should be able to self adjust. Not a big deal If you need to do that.

Third, what did you use to screw the pistons back in? I don't want to buy that tool if I don't have to.
there is two tools you can buy one is about $100 and the other is less then $20 from CT looks like a box with points on each side that should work.
As far as moving the pistons in or out for new pads. I just used good old fashioned c clamps. If you can't get them too slide my mechanic told me that they needed to be replaced when I was doing mine. the caliper that is.

Thats the last way you want to do it on the rear calipers there is a reason for a tool that turns them in as you push them. If done that way your asking for problems.

Hope that help Paul
 
I was able to screw mine back in with a pair of needlenose pliers, but it's not easy. I'd rent the tool if possible or buy it.

If you use a C clamp, you'll ruin your calipers as they must be screwed back in. You shouldn't have to adjust the e-brake afterwards, just hang the caliper up with a metal coat hanger to make it much easier to get around :)
 
Thanks guys... that really helps a lot.
The slider pins dont come out all you need to do is take the bolt out of the end of them then the caliper will slide off.
Ahh, I see. The manual states" remove guide pin bolts" and then labels it a "pinch bolt" in the diagram, so this was a bit confusing.
I was able to screw mine back in with a pair of needlenose pliers
This is what Greg did as well. In case it doesn't work for me I think I better have the tool handy. $20 isn't that bad I guess... time to pry open the wallet again :mad:
 
Just be careful! I heard that the universal versions of the tool (the little square or box shaped thing) doesn't fit our cars. If you find one that does, please let me know! ...I've gotta replace the rear pads on my SC ASAP, and I would love one for my toolbox too.

BTW, Paul, what did you decide to do for new pads? I need to get fresh pads for the rear of my car. I plan on running the Cobra 11.65" rear rotors with Ed's handy brackets for repositioning the calipers.

I'll also need to pick up a new set of pads for the front. I'll be running the 11.65" Lincoln Mark VIII brakes up front.

I'll go with stock-type replacement pads if time and budget limitations dictate, but I'm open to other options.

Best regards,

Sean
 
Just be careful! I heard that the universal versions of the tool (the little square or box shaped thing) doesn't fit our cars.
Oh crap... that's not what I wanted to hear :mad:

As far as dishing out a hundred bucks for the Ford tool - well, that's not gonna happen. I mean DAMN!.. it's nothing more than a round plate with two nibs on it! (Screw it, I'm gonna build my own)

BTW, Paul, what did you decide to do for new pads?
I originally planned to get the carbon/kevlar pads, as you know. However (after thinking about it some) I decided my money would be better spent elsewhere. ;)

For the rear, I'm sticking with the OE pads & rotors.

Up front I installed a pair of "PowerSlot" rotors and heavy duty semi-metallic pads.
 
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Paul93SC said:
Oh crap... that's not what I wanted to hear :mad:

As far as dishing out a hundred bucks for the Ford tool - well, that's not gonna happen. I mean DAMN!.. it's nothing more than a round plate with two nibs on it! (Screw it, I'm gonna build my own)

Cant you jsut use channel locks...? I seem to remember seeing them being used once at school....
 
SkunkWorks said:
Cant you jsut use channel locks...? I seem to remember seeing them being used once at school....

Yeah, school. I really hope you've learned a few things since then....like use the right tool for the job. Channel lock and needle-nose pliers should be avoided like the plague for this. Good way to screw things up (pun not intended).

Paul, is there any difference between the calipers on our cars ("early" versus "late")? I desperately need to do something about my rears also (brakes, that is) and I was going to make this tool at work. If it will work for you then you are, and anyone else is, welcome to it.

Considering what it takes to re-adjust the parking brake tension, why not do it? Takes two minutes and you're set for a few years. All you need is a small pry bar or even a screwdriver to move the spring clip and.....voila. Slide it back in place and away you go.
 
I never said I used them in school.

Oh and when I did my J-Mod I lost a couple Check Balls... So I just used skittles instead....

Taste The Rainbow...:cool:
 
:rolleyes:

So you did, indeed, learn. Don't use those tools to do that job.

BTW - I hope you've got a really good tranny chiller, er, cooler for your Skittles, ummm, check balls - LOL!!!

Rainbow? You're seeing things. Stop smoking that cheap stuff! You don't use Twizzlers for a replacement drivebelt, too, do you?! HAHAHAHA :D
 
Hay it works for McGiver...

I hvae a B&M cooler I gotta put on. I was told that it does not come with the correct fitting to screw onto the return line.....?

" You'll need a 5/16" Male Fitting. You'll find Ford uses this stupid fitting that's too long to fit the B&M fitting over it. I got a normal 5/16" fitting, cut the old one off, installed the new one and reflare the tranny line. Then the fittings and hoses go together nicely, For the top line."

A Shorter 5/16" male fitting to replace the stock one on the line...? orrr....?
 
Cam - let's take this to e-mails and let Paul have his space. I don't know where you got the cooler from or who gave you that quote, but the send and return lines are the same thing. If it won't work on one then it won't work on the other.

You've got (e-) mail.
 
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lazybird4pt6 said:
Paul, is there any difference between the calipers on our cars ("early" versus "late")? I desperately need to do something about my rears also (brakes, that is) and I was going to make this tool at work. If it will work for you then you are, and anyone else is, welcome to it.

Andrew, I'll be working on my rear brakes very shortly. In the event the one tool will work for all years, when might the tool be ready? I've got new Cobra rear rotors coming from Ed today (Wednesday), and I've already got the special brackets. I'll be picking up a set of PartSource-special, Wagner Thermo-Quiet brake pads on my way home from work this afternoon. I'm hoping to start the bolt-circle swap this evening.

lazybird4pt6 said:
Considering what it takes to re-adjust the parking brake tension, why not do it? Takes two minutes and you're set for a few years. All you need is a small pry bar or even a screwdriver to move the spring clip and.....voila. Slide it back in place and away you go.

I was thinking the same thing. Unless your adjuster is totally rotted, this should be a really simple task, so why not do it? :D

Cheers,

Sean
 
I have the square tool from crappy tire. There is one side that will work with a small modification. There is one side with four pegs, and you grind off two of them.

You can use needle nose pliers if the calipers are not sticky. You will likely chew up the piston doing this because the pliers are constantly slipping off the piston.

As for the procedure, I remove the pads and reinstall one of the caliper mounting bolts. Leave the other off so you tilt the caliper up. If you have the rotor off, then reinstall both bolts. This will hold the caliper and stop it from rotating when you turn the piston. Then put a piece of wood or something between the caliper and swap bar (or whatever else is behind it) to stop the caliper from moving back when you push on it. You have to push quite hard on the tool to keep it from slipping. Remove the cap on the brake resevoir to make it a little easier. You can also crack the bleeder screw and let the excess fluid come out there, then refill and bleed the system afterwards.
 
I bought my brake kit from Princess Auto -- red box with about 15 pieces in it. It works great to turn in the rotors while pushing them in. I think about $50. has all the adapters to fit almost any type of brakes.

Eric
 
Well... got it done! What a PITA.

When they say to screw the pistons back in, what they really mean is screw, screw, screw, screw, screw, screw, screw, screw, and then screw some more... :(

You were right Wayne, you have to push hard to keep that damn tool from slipping. BTW, I didn't have to modify it like you described. (maybe they updated the design?)

I also discovered I have two different types of piston faces :eek: The drivers side has little "V"s and the passenger side was large "U" shaped slots... weird :confused:

I had to disengage the parking brake cable tips in order to access the bottom caliper bracket bolts, but just left the rest of the mechanism connected to the calipers. Once the new rotors and pads were on, the emergency brake system was adjusted perfectly. Just luck I guess :D

All in all, not a job I care to tackle again anytime soon... :eek: Thanks for all the great advice folks!
 
...Funny you should mention this tonight, Paul.

This evening I managed to get the old style spindle removed from the right front, and I started on the rears. I picked up one of those little square universal tools from PartSource, and I've got the rear calipers back on with the bolts hand tight in preparation for screwing the pistons back in before I pull the rear knuckles to take them in for the new bearings and hubs.

Here's a shot of the one side...

Cheers,

Sean
 

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Sean, are you going to be "wrenching" Wednesday night? I'll come up and lend a hand if you are.

That pic looks awfully familiar... :D I also noticed you have a wear point on the emergency cable in exactly the same place as mine. The cable is supposed to be held up to the sway bar with a plastic tie, but mine broke just like yours. I have a fix for this... :cool:

Andrew: don't bother making your own piston tool... the little universal block works fine, only costs $17, and you may find the slots are different on your rears like mine were :mad:
 
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