Clutch Adjustment

J

Joisey Jim

Guest
I recently had the clutch replaced on my '93. I bought mostly stock parts (Ford discount) and a local shop did the install. The car had 195,000m on the original and it was shuddering a bit during pedal release in cold weather , then finally the hydraulic slave system failed. Anyway, I tried to get an aftermarket reman. flywheel to save the delay (labor) time in getting the old one cut, but the store (AutoZone) screwed-up & gave me one for a Turbo Coupe; so it ended up getting cut. The mistake I/installer made I believe was not remembering to put spacers behind the flywheel to compensate for the cut. Now my clutch is great, but still has a very high pedal (like before when it was worn). There is no traditional adjustment on the rod for the master cylinder, so is there anything else I can do to lower the pedal. Maybe cut the rod and if so, how much? Any ideas would be welcome.
 
There is nothing I am aware of that can be done without removing the trans and puttint the spacers in.

It MIGHT be possible to find some sort of aftermarket ,adjustable, Master, but I bet the work involved with adapting it to function correctly would be more than dropping the trans again.
 
The rod from the pedal into the master cylinder is fairly standard, it just has an eyelet on the end to bolt to the pedal shaft. So instead of cutting it shorter, maybe I can find a standard one (like the one on my old Escort GT) which has the threaded adjustment.
 
i have a brand new clutch and my pedal is high, dont know why but it is.
when i put in my clutch i did,

Spec Stage III Clutch kit lightened pressure plate + thro out bearing
Spec Aluminum Flywheel
Rebuild 5-spd Transmission with brass syncros

everything new there and upgraded but high clutch pedal, i'm not worried because i know everything there is new, but i do wonder why ?
 
It's a hydraulic clutch, so I'm not sure what's playing with the clutch pedal height. Unless you mean it seems that there is "no" travel before it's released.

I'd be a bit concerned if there is no travel as how do you know that it's fully engaged?
 
shim

Jim,

I'ts unusual that you have a high clutch pedal now. A thicker clutch disc should require more movement of the slave. My experience with new clutches and clutches in general on these cars is a low pedal that is difficult to dissengage completely.

The important thing to note is that a flywheel shim or slave cylinder shim will bring your clutch engagment/disengagment point higher in the pedal because the slave will be closer to the pressure plate; and require less movement.

After installing a Spec flywheel and Stage II clutch I had to take it all back apart and put a slave shim in because it would not fully disengage. After the shim it was good.

Maybe spec has adjusted thier flywheels, it was a common complaint.

Cheers
Bob
 
There is nothing I am aware of that can be done without removing the trans and puttint the spacers in.

It MIGHT be possible to find some sort of aftermarket ,adjustable, Master, but I bet the work involved with adapting it to function correctly would be more than dropping the trans again.

i have found a way to change the clutch adjustment without using shims. the master is going to send the same amount of fluid to the slave. replace the line with a small diameter line from the master to the slave. this will reduce the volume loss from line area allowing for more fluid to pump into the slave. make sure that what ever you use is a hard line. the harder the better. this will also prevent expansion (which volume and pressure is lost from).
 
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