code 217 DIS fault ignition system coil #3

LikeNew92

Registered User
My car has check a engine light and poor engine performance. I got the car to fail with code 217 DIS fault ignition system coil #3.

how can I further troubleshoot this? Change wire and plug?

Alex
 
that sounds like a DIS to me. When was the last time your plugs and wires changed? I would suggest you look into that as well. considering that both my xr7 and SC did the same thing and all it took was a DIS and it fixed the problem i would go with that...

Oh, if I were you, first check under the DIS to see if you need to apply some Dieelectric (spelling?) grease. If that doesnt work, I would replace the DIS.

Stephen
 
Probably the DIS

Just fixed a 217 on my 93 with a new DIS (cheaper at rockauto.com than at the stealership). You can check the coil out with an ohmmeter. 217 points to the plug wires that come out of the middle two coil positions. Search for the exact procedure on how to do that but it isn't hard, just need a 15 dollar multimeter.

Like Stephen said you might try ensuring the DIS ground (think it grounds through one of the four screws holding it down. You might also try a new layer of heat sink compound (can get at radio shack). Pretty sure I read somewhere that you don't want to use dielectric, I used heat sink compound. Good luck!

Brian
 
thanks

thanks for the tip. I changed the DIS ($400:eek: ). It seems to run fine. However, I need to test a little more.

Alex
 
Definitely ouch!

Definitely take a search on this site before you ever buy anything for your car. Post it up if the DIS doesn't fix it though - mine personally has gone about 120 miles so far just fine. Haven't run it real hard yet though.

At least it wasn't hard to install, right? :rolleyes:

Brian
 
Just went through similar problem. Codes led me to bad coil - replaced it with another used coil - Thanks to Mike Oefelein - and thought problem solved.

Not so, turned out to be the DIS module.

As said above - check around - for those that don't know it - the Taurus SHO and some Explorers also used the same DIS. Visited the yard around the block from me - don't want ot make you feel bad but used and tested - $50.

Good luck.

Mark
'93 SC
 
Similar Problem?

Did you guys experience very poor driveability under 3K RPM?? It's happened to me a few times, it's like after 3,000 it comes back to life. Is that an indication that the DIS is bad??? what size are the bolts around the DIS??lol cant find anything that fits...:confused: :eek:
 
5.5mm for the DIS bolts as well as the bolts on the Crank Sensor and Cam Sensor.

The Coil pack almost never fails, and if it does, you should always have 2 cylinders go down, not one since there are 3 coil packs used for all 6 cylinders.

I have a bad dis, and the signs where tach dropping to zero and check engine light but drivability the same. Odd thing was data logging the RPM, I'd still get RPm through the EEC RPM sensor even if the tach was at zero. Anyway, took a DIS off my 90 and the problem went away on the 93.

Note that there is a very old thread around here where someone replaced 3 or 4 DIS modules because they kept failing. The problem ended up being some issue related to the coil pack and some wiring causing the dis to overheat. Thus it is possible for a DIS to show up bad, but not be the actual problem.
 
My tach still works great, but my CEL almost never comes on. I was told that the CEl won't come on if the DIS is bad. I have been having some very strange problems with my Tbird. For example, inorder to get the car running I have to rev it up to 3000 or 3500 rpm and then it just jumps to 4500 or so and then it slowly falls to idle. (when i first start it, it sounds like it has a huge cam, and kinda sputters when i rev it.) Once it seems to be running correctly, if i rev it up, the rpms don't seem to fall as quickly as they should. The only thing I can think of that would cause this, is the computers safe guard when some sensors go bad. ( When the DIS is bad and the computer is trying to calculate firing order and spark curve)

What do you think??
 
In my case, the tach would drop, rpm signal still at the EEC, but a code would get set for spout signal failure and cel would come on.

You're problem sounds different. I'd first try running the car with the cam sensor disconnected and see if it behaves differently. If it does, the cam sensor or the wiring for it has a problem.

If that doesn't fix the issue, then it's something else. Idle problems always seem like a vac leak to me if you're sure the IAC is good.
 
If the DIS is bad, wouldn't that make the car idle rough since it can't send a signal to the coil, or recieve any signals from the Cam and Crank Sensors?

I am assuming that you want me to disconnect the cam sensor before I start the car right?? If the car acts differently, wouldn't that indicate that the sensor or wiring is good? I always thought if the car acts the same with a sensor connected and/or disconnected, the sensor is bad. (Maybe I just misunderstood)

Some body told me they had the same problem I was having, and they just replaced the DIS module. (Hasn't had the same problem since.)

Nonetheless, I am always open to new ideas and suggestion, and I really appriciate all of your guys's knowledge!
 
The DIS module is not a simple device. It is a complex electronic component and most of the issues it has are related to temperature. So just because the DIS is malfunctioning doesn't mean it won't be giving it the old college dry to keep things going.

If you disconnect the CAM sensor, you cause the engine computer to have to guess when the #1 cylinder is ready to burn some fuel. The computer will pick a coil to fire and fire that puppy. If the motor doesn't start, key off, key back on, and the EEC will try a different coil.

Once it runs, not having a CAM sensor shouldn't really affect things. As the EEC will just work off the crank sensor. (The engine will not run without a valid crank sensor input)

If the wiring is bad you don't necessarily eliminate it by disconnecting the sensor. A ground loop, or some issue that causes an intermittent signal from the sensor won't show up with the sensor disconnected. If the computer gets a flaky signal, it may work with it. If the computer gets no signal, it ignores that input.

If you have a buddy with an SC close buy, just see if you can swap DIS modules and see if the problem goes away. If it does, it's the DIS.
 
Alright, I will give that a shot! Thanks for all your help!

I may start a new thread to let you know what goes down.

Dave
 
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