Need ball joint/end link part numbers

B

blownsc

Registered User
I get a bad clunk when braking and rounding corners comming from the passenger side wheel well. I checked it out and the rubber bushings on the upper and lower ball joints are badly torn, so I assume they're the problem. I have read a lot of posts and see that anti-sway bar and links are also a common problem so i'd like to replacec those too. I understand that just getting the bushings is hard to get pressed in/ not available for the upper, so i'm looking to just get the whole assemblies for both upper and lower ball joints/ controll arms. Can someone respond with the part numbers for both for the passenger side only (i'm poor and my drivers side look and sound fine), as well as the sway bar end link bushings, if that's what they're called.
Thanks for everything,
Kyle
 
Try this...

Go to Rock Auto www.rockauto.com and enter your vehicle info. They carry just about everything you can think of for your car. Good prices, fast delivery, excellent customer service. They offer a complete line of Moog Suspension parts for our cars. The lower control arms (MOOG K80053 & MOOG K80055) come with all new bushings and ball joints as a complete unit. Upper Control Arms: MOOG K8598 & MOOG K8596
Swaybar endlink: MOOG K8633 (complete endlink)
 
You don't say which year SC, or how many miles. Those rubber parts you refered to are only the grease boots on the ball joints NOT bushings. It's best to use a pry bar with the wheel off to check for actuall play between suspension components. Besides obvious suspension wear, bad door hinge pins can also produce a 'knock' when braking. So you should also lift the end of the door to see if there is any play. If you do re-build the suspension, that RockAuto site looks very good, especially for the lower control arms that typically only come from Ford (stock price around $150.00ea - discount anywhere between $80-100ea). If you find it's the door hinge though, then the $25 repair kit from MN12 Performance usually fixes it.
Jim.
 
I just replaced the upper and lower control arm assemblies, the tie-rod ends, as well as the sway bar endlinks and also the tension strut bushings (front and back). ...Basically the whole front end!

I picked up TRW parts for everything except the lower control arms. TRW doesn't seem to offer those anymore. I went with the MOOG lower control arms.

I bought all this stuff through PartSource up here in Hamilton. They include a lifetime warranty on all of these parts!

I've still got the boxes at home, but I may not be able to tell which one held the left side part vs. the right side part. Let me know if there are specific things you still need part numbers for, and I'll post them for you.

Best regards,

Sean
 
my sc's a 1990 and has 70k miles. The greese boots are what's visible damaged. I'm assuming those cannot be replaced w/o the whole assembly anyways. I'll check the door play today when I get off work. Thanks for the part numbers and link Larry, that's what I needed. I know I didn't really give a good description of what's wrong, but do you think driving it in it's current condition is dangerous? I don't have the time or space to fix it for another couple weeks.
Thanks again,
Kyle
 
Kyle - check the doors (particularly driver side), so you can maybe eliminate that as the problem. Then the only way to be sure is to jack the car up and use a pry bar between the various joints. You do have to replace the upper control arm as a complete unit (about $60ea); but if the lower control arm main bushing is in good shape you could spend just $25 (plus machine shop to press in/out) to replace each ball joint. Kinda hard to evaluate without seeing the car, but being as it's a '90 more likely everything needs replacing incl. the Tokico shocks.
 
yeah, well the car is lowered and the shocks are shot for sure. But that'll have to wait for a bigger paycheck.
Thanks
 
one more thing

anyone tried the High Performance Polyurethane Front Suspension Bushing Kit from supercoupeperformance? Those look like all the bushings seperately w/o parts. $255 for all of em. Would this be just as easy and does it replace all the same thing (minus the cast parts)? I know i'd need to get some parts pressed.
Thanks,
Kyle
 
My $.02

When I replaced the (left and right side) upper and lower control arms (with new ball joints), swaybar end links, and strut rod bushings (front and back), which is basically the entire front suspension, the parts cost about $350.00(US) from RockAuto. The only thing I haven't replaced is the tie-rod ends. I think replacing just the bushings would be as much work (if not more) and that doesn't include pressing out and replacing the lower ball joints. The poly bushings may have a performance edge over the stock suspension, but replacing the front suspension with stock components seems to be a better value (parts and labor).
 
Cheap fix

OKay here it is. You can get new ball joints from Oreilly's Moog part is number (K80055) with life time warranty for 45 bucks. They also have the end links for 13 bucks also moog. I would suggest checking the tie rod end links also. You can borrow the tool yoiu need and it will not cost you anything. Putting them on isn't easy but it isn't really hard. Just use the tool which looks like a huge c clamp to press the old one out of the bottom of the clower control arm and flip it over to press in the new one. You do have to take nearly everything off the control arm to do this but I was able to change both the ball joints and the tie rod ends in about 3 hours both sides.
As far as the sway bars just beware you will have a lot of work to do. Took me about 5 days to replace both sway bars, all bushings, both rear knuckles, and all shocks. I went with the 1 3/8 sway bars and I will not do that to my other bird. With that size sway bar I can't get into my driveway. If you take anything at an angle it lifts the wheels off the ground. No doubt the performance is vastly improved, NO BODY ROLL at all.

Theid
 
theid said:
OKay here it is. You can get new ball joints from Oreilly's Moog part is number (K80055) with life time warranty for 45 bucks.
Click to expand...

Just a note. I was looking up parts and that Moog number above is not just the ball joint. It is for the right hand lower control arm with ball joint and bushings. It's a complete unit. K80053 is the left hand side.
 
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