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tadmichael22
04-26-2004, 04:11 PM
I am really going crazy now and I would love any help I can get here. Those of you that have been reading and helping me with my problems in the past know I have went through 6 mafs before getting one that worked. My new problem is that I ordered a chip because my car was kinda bogging down off the start and just didnt want to run as well as it should. I have been through 2 now and it wont work either. All it does is when I turn the key on the fan comes on and the care just cranks and cranks but wont start. It wont even try. When you take the chip out it starts right up. Has anyone had this problem before. Its almost may and I still cant drive my car because all the incorrect parts I have been recieving. Thanks Tad

tadmichael22
04-26-2004, 04:14 PM
Oh by the way I ordered it from apten and they cant figure out why it wont work. He just told me to send this one back and they will try reburning it again. I just have a feeling it will come back the same way as the past 2 and I will be out another week and a half. Tad

David Neibert
04-26-2004, 04:19 PM
I'm guessing you don't have the EEC contacts cleaned off well enough. You must remove all that coating that the factory puts on there, or the chip won't work.

David

BlckOnBlckBrd
04-26-2004, 04:23 PM
My car does the exact same thing as yours, only most of the time it will start. Some times the fan will come on and it will just crank. If I play with the EEC and move it around it seems to fix it some times. I'm gonna go take it out right now and try cleaning the contacts a little better and see if that helps.

tadmichael22
04-26-2004, 04:32 PM
Ill try cleaning them again but I cleaned them really well the first time. I took the eec apart and got all the coating off the connections.
Tad

cougarsc
04-26-2004, 04:34 PM
When the fan turns on during a key on, means the chip is not on securely or you have not cleaned the contacts enough. You will have to sand down till you see copper on both sides of the EEC contacts. So you may need to unbolt the EEC from it's case to get to the underside contacts.

http://www.v6power.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10748

tadmichael22
04-26-2004, 04:48 PM
thats exactly what I did but I will try again.
Tad

David Neibert
04-26-2004, 05:02 PM
Tad,

I had to clean mine about 4 times before the contacts were clean enough. I don't know why Ford even bothered to put an access port, if they were going to make it so difficult to use.

David

XxSlowpokexX
04-26-2004, 05:56 PM
I never had to clean the contact points on my SC computer,,From what I understand teh silver is a coating for protection yet still conductive..I dunno..Maybe the chip just wasnt in all the way

tadmichael22
04-26-2004, 06:13 PM
well I just went out and cleaned the contacts again. They are completely copper now and still no go. I cant possibly get them any cleaner. Any other ideas???
Tad

J57ltr
04-26-2004, 08:03 PM
How exactly did you clean them? We have problems with our connections that our cards plug into a female busboard (at work, very sim. to the EEC port) we have a special fiberglass brush that looks like a eraser for a blackboard. In the feild a eraser on a pencil usually does the trick.

Check the connections on the other chip one of the pins might be pressed back and not make connection.

Jeff

tadmichael22
04-27-2004, 06:52 AM
What I did was I used a scotch brite and made sure that there was none of the clear film lefty on it and I scuffed the connections all down to copper on both sides. I will go out this morning and try the eraser though. At this point I will try anything. If this doesnt work you all will probably see a 93 red SC up for sale... Thanks for all the responses!
Tad

tadmichael22
04-27-2004, 07:37 AM
Well I just tried the eraser thing and it didnt make any difference. It was worth a shot though. Now I'm up to 3 pro-m mafs and 3 apten chips. Has anyone had this much trouble ordering parts for these things? It seems like everything I order comes in wrong.
Tad

z90sc
04-27-2004, 09:46 AM
This may sound like a silly question but are you piggybacking the chip properly?When I got my chip from Brian I first tried to mount it over the outside lip of the EEC housing because that's how my previous chip attached and had the same types of problems that you describe......removed the back of the EEC housing,placed the chip inside the EEC body,replaced the back and chip worked great.....just a thought......
z

tadmichael22
04-27-2004, 02:15 PM
The chip I recieved you just need to remove the cap ford places over the chip port and push the chip onto the board from there. It still doesnt go completely flush with the outside of the eec because it bottoms out inside the chip befor it will allow it to go in any farther.
Tad

David Neibert
04-27-2004, 02:21 PM
Is it possible that you are installing the chip backwards ?

David

tadmichael22
04-27-2004, 02:34 PM
No because if you have it in upside down it hangs way low over the bottom of the eec. So theres really only one way it can fit properly.
Tad

z90sc
04-27-2004, 03:46 PM
Tad,I had the same problem that you are describing....the chip wouldn't seat onto the eec board....it was angled.....take the back of the eec off,plug the chip onto the board,replace the eec back and try it......that's what I had to do and the chip worked great.....try it and see.
z

wezar
04-27-2004, 09:22 PM
Heres three pictures of my EEC when I installed my Apten Diablo chip.

The first is the cleaned EEC connector. Second shows the Chip on the board without the case on the EEC (notice the components carefully layed over on the board. The third shows how I trimmed the EEC case for chip clearance.

My chip has worked great for 6 months now.

SweetSc
04-28-2004, 10:44 PM
Well that first picture clearly shows that there is still silver that needs sanded. You also didnt post a pick of the other side.


Chris

wezar
04-29-2004, 12:04 AM
Well that first picture clearly shows that there is still silver that needs sanded. You also didnt post a pick of the other side.


Chris


Tough crowd..... The other side is the same deal. Take it down to copper. :).

XxSlowpokexX
04-29-2004, 12:19 AM
I still never had to sand my board!!!!

XR7 Dave
04-29-2004, 08:21 AM
My new problem is that I ordered a chip because my car was kinda bogging down off the start and just didnt want to run as well as it should. What do you mean here? Your car should run excellent w/o a chip. You don't have enough mods to be having driveabillity issues. Maybe something else is wrong. A chip can be used to optimize your engine, but it can't be used to fix other problems like a band aid.

SweetSc
04-29-2004, 12:40 PM
What do you mean here? Your car should run excellent w/o a chip. You don't have enough mods to be having driveabillity issues. Maybe something else is wrong. A chip can be used to optimize your engine, but it can't be used to fix other problems like a band aid.


I'm with dave, you shouldnt try to Baidaid your real problem with a chip. Fix your problem, then put the chip in.



Chris

tadmichael22
04-30-2004, 12:36 PM
I was told that not having a chip was my problem. I have 42# injectors and a 75mm maf and 70mm tb mainly and was told I needed a chip to make it run right so I figured that was my problem. What it does is when its at idle it runs fine. When you give it any gas while trying to drive it just instantly goes into boost and it just bogs down and wont go unless you start off real slow then still once you are rolling if you give it gas it still falls on its face. I also have new autilite dp plugs gapped at what they were from sc performance which was .054 or .055. If anyone knows another solution I would be more than happy to hear one.
Tad

XR7 Dave
04-30-2004, 12:48 PM
I was told that not having a chip was my problem. I have 42# injectors and a 75mm maf and 70mm tb mainly and was told I needed a chip to make it run right so I figured that was my problem. What it does is when its at idle it runs fine. When you give it any gas while trying to drive it just instantly goes into boost and it just bogs down and wont go unless you start off real slow then still once you are rolling if you give it gas it still falls on its face. I also have new autilite dp plugs gapped at what they were from sc performance which was .054 or .055. If anyone knows another solution I would be more than happy to hear one.
Tad

Does it go rich or lean when you try to step on it?

tadmichael22
04-30-2004, 12:49 PM
I dont know?? How do you tell?
Tad

wezar
04-30-2004, 08:54 PM
Do you see black smoke rolling out behind the car when you go to WOT? If you floor it and it has black smoke thats unburned fuel = Rich. No black smoke and it might be running lean.

XR7 Dave
04-30-2004, 09:35 PM
I dont know?? How do you tell?
Tad
There are a number of ways to tell. Are your plugs getting fouled? Do you smell gas? Any black smoke? Do the exhaust fumes make your eyes water?

You could go get a simple A/F gauge for $50 and see what is happening.

tadmichael22
05-02-2004, 09:00 AM
There is no smoke coming out of it. I pulled a plug out last night and it looked okay. It didnt look all carboned up or anything nor did it look like its real burnt like it was running real lean or anything. I tried doing that the other day and the plug looked like it was really burnt like it was running way too lean so I cranked my fuel pressure up to like 47psi and now they seem okay but I have never seen anyone need their puel pressure that high. but I am still having the bogging problem. Its not as bad now since I upped the fuel pressure but its still doing it none the less.
Tad

XR7 Dave
05-02-2004, 09:28 AM
Ok, so you are pretty sure that it is going lean. Leave the chip out, drop the fuel pressure back to 39psi with the vacuum line off, and find the problem. I am leaning towards some type of a wiring problem. The C&L meter that you had before with the purple sampling tube would have worked just fine on a motor that did not have other issues.

Is your fuel pressure gauge visible while driving? It would be a good idea to verify that fuel pressure is stable and responding in kind to vac/boost conditions.

tadmichael22
05-02-2004, 03:48 PM
I think so but I'm not sure. My f/p guage is on the rail so I dont know what it is at certain points while driving. I had to change my c&l maf out because my electronics were bad so thats why I went with the pro-m. I dont know what other kind of problem I could have other than if my maf still isnt calibrated right. It took them 3 tries just to get it to run. this is the third one so maybe its still off for some reason but I dont really know how to tell if thats the problem or not. Other than that what elso could really be my problem electronically?? Could my o2 sensors be causing a problem at all??
I'm so lost at this point. As far as the chip goes it wouldnt allow my car to run at all.
Tad

XR7 Dave
05-02-2004, 06:57 PM
Do you still have your C&L? You could just put in some known working electronics and see what happens.

tadmichael22
05-02-2004, 10:50 PM
yeah I do still have the c&l maf but I dont know anyone that has a SC to use their electronics and I surely dont want to buy new electronics from ford just to try.
Tad

XR7 Dave
05-03-2004, 04:47 PM
You can use the electronics from any Ford MAF that fits. I have numerous extras if you want me to mail you one.

tadmichael22
05-04-2004, 07:18 AM
I didnt know they were kinda inerchangable. If so then yeah that would be great if you could send me one to try. I would greatly appreciate it.
Oh and also yesterday I tried to drive it and after a little while, maybe 5 minutes after driving the check engine light comes on too. That was pretty much the first time I tried to actually drive it. The car didnt run any different before or after the check engine light came on so I dont know what its trying to tell me. If you shut the car off and re start it the light will be off for like another five minutes.
Tad
Oh and also I re gapped my plugs to .045 and it seemed to help some but still not right..