about replacing water pump

slipcoupe

Registered User
in my 90 5 speed it says i have low coolant, and neither my radiator or my hoses are leaking, so im assuming its my water pump. it looks fairly easy to take off but i read some other posts and it says i need a PS pully remover to get the bracket off.

can i use a regular gear puller to get it off? will i need anything else besides the water pump and gasket to replace it? also, how difficult is it to get the ps pulley off? thanks lot - mike
 
First, what do you mean when you say "it says i have low coolant"? Are you refering to the readout on the VMM in the dash? If so, I hope you've gone and checked to see if your cooling system is actually low on coolant. The sensors in the coolant reservoirs have been known to go bad, so you may just be getting a bad reading.

Now, in the event you find that the system is truly low on coolant, then you have to ask where it has been going. If the water pump is at fault, you should be able to see signs that it has been leaking. If there are no signs it has been leaking, then I wouldn't just replace it under the assumption that it must be your problem.

Coolant loss could be from any of a number of places... It could be a leaking heater core, or a leaking hose, or worse... head gaskets!

Regards,

Sean
 
Well, if you decide to replace it, you'll need the pulley puller. I wouldn't risk using a gear puller as it might mess up the ridge. You can borrow one from Azone for free, or spend the $30 and buy one which is unused..
It is possible to get the pwr steering pump bracket off and pull it forward enough to clear the 2 studs on the WP without taking the pulley off, but I don't have the right tools for it and have never been able to do it myself.
 
If you end up taking that bracket off to replace the water pump, TOSS IT!!! I've been running my car for almost three years with that bracket gone without any problems. If I ever have to change a water pump again, it will be much easier.

Cheers,

Sean
 
A gear puller won't be able to get a grip on the ridge on the pulley, and it won't be able to apply enough torque to pull it off.

If you don't want to buy one, most parts stores will rent one. They are under $20 to buy and necessary for the p/s pulley on many cars other than just the thunderbird. Heck, my 78 Chevy 1/2 ton needed the tool to pull off the p/s pulley.
 
First thing to do is get ahold of a coolant pressure tester and test your system for leaks to see where coolant is going. Mine was leaking from a bad radiator and several loose connections.

I don't know about running without the bracket that mounts to the front of the water pump and rear of the bracket, but I do know you don't have to pull the pully off. some guys have cut the bracket in half and welded a piece to the water pump side - drilled two holes in the pump side of the bracket thus making a new removal point.

It's not hard if you've taken off your tubes before. Remove the belts. Remove the top/IC tube as a unit - don't break apart the collar nut. Remove the lower tube and intercooler. Remove the alt. and the bolts that hold the bracket in place are accessible. The tricky part is locating the bolts that hold the bracket and removing them.

Drain the coolant and remove the hoses. Remove the bypass hose at the top of the water pump. Unbolt the water pump and remove it.

Several things to do - remember to seal the water pump with Copper RTV.
Purchase new upper and lower hoses and a bypass hose. This is also the time to replace the thermostat. Get the Ford OEM gasket for the thermostat - it's the only one that works without leaking. Make sure your thermostat housing is level - hold it to a plate of glass to see if it is flush with no gaps. If badly warped - replace it - it'll only leak cause you won't be able to get a good seal. When installing the housing - don't overtighten it - it'll warp. Check your radiator to see what condition it's in - either have it cleaned by a rad shop or replace if needed.

Do a search - there's alot of info on replacing the water pump.

Good luck.

Mark
'93 SC
 
No need for coper RTV specifically. Any high temp RTV should work. I've always used either ultra blue, or "The Right Stuff". Also, as far as the t-stat gasket, RTV can be subsituted here as well, and will compensate for small warpage or inconsistancies. Just allow the the RTV to cure fully before filling the coolant and pressurizing the system.
 
i cut my bracket off with a cut off wheel,cut close to ps pump,then "shaped"the edges a little,and tossed the rest.you dont even notice it unless you look for it.for me that was easier than removing the ps pulley and all that.only took 2-3 minutes.whats that bracket supposed to do anyway?
 
I've been running around with my 35th now for almost a year without that bracket. No problems to report.

Shane
 
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