Help me prove my theory!

Scott Long

Registered User
My theory: colder t-stat causing my car to run rich and lose performance due to keeping the computer in closed loop mode almost constantly.

In my 92 SC I have a problem. Its nothing major, just that it runs a little rich and the gas mileage sucks. Now the CE light is off, never comes on, so its getting at least some sort of signal from my O2's. Granted my A/F gauge stays lean most of the time, its obviously in range enough that the computer is still getting a signal from them. Now when I replace them in a few weeks this will help me diagnose this problem.

I also have a 160 degree thermostat in my SC and the low speed fan constantly on w/ the ign. Around town the temp guage stays like 1/16" below the N. Car runs cool, has decent power (until the ic gets heat soaked), but the gas mileage sucks.

If I get on the highway and go long distances the temp ever so slightly raises up until it gets around the RM on NORM. It then seems to get much better gas mileage, like it seems to be about 8 mpg more than in the city (i always reset my trip meter when I fill up to monitor my mileage, just something my dad showed me when I was younger about keeping track of fuel economy.) Better on the highway but not where it should be like only 19 mpg. I do have 3.27's in this 5-speed, but still my friend w/ 2.73's gets almost 30 mpg constant at 80 mph. I followed him to St. Louis and I went through a tank and a half of fuel, he was on his first tank. Thats what led me to believe I have one or two problems, caused by one or two things.

Here are my thoughts:

I have been told time and time again that engine temp has no relation w/ the computer coming out of closed loop mode and that its based on a time limit rather than temp. I know that in closed loop mode the engine dumps a bit more fuel than normal and may even ignore the O2 sensors until its out of closed loop mode. Now, around town it runs cold but on the highway its running warmer probably because coolant is passing through the radiator faster than it can exchange the heat. I thought this fan was restricting it at speed and I unplugged it. Made it hotter so I plugged it back in.

Around town if I get on it hard I notice it puffs unburnt fuel. I can see the puff of black smoke in my mirrors. Its not terrible, but its something I notice. On the highway when I stomp it even on a downshift, its not blowing unburnt fuel at least not that I can tell. But then again the temp is up there. I believe the computer runs on engine temp, since its monitoring the O2 sensors and the temp is up, it doesn't have to dump extra fuel because the mixture is being monitored.

When I had the stock 195 t-stat in my SC, if I ran into the store for a minute and came out, the car would restart and imediately go to 900 rpm idle speed. Now with the colder t-stat, even if I shut it off for like a minute, when I restart the car, it does the cold start high idle thing. Everytime. Maybe the engine is too cold and the comp goes back into closed loop mode which has to run high idle BASED ON TIME. The idle speed always comes down about 35 seconds later. I believe that is the only thing based on time.

Watching my A/F guage around town, I notice it stays red and when I hit it, it only jumps to stoich (yellow). Green (rich) is almost impossible to light up. I think the O2's are shot since its obvious the car is running rich. Thats why I'm going to change the O2's and I know it will get better mileage, but I wonder if it will get much better. Either the O2's are shot and causing the poor mileage and rich running, or the colder t-stat is keeping the computer in closed loop mode around town due to engine temp, also causing poor economy. On the highway I expect MUCH better mileage w/ new O2's since the temp is up and the O2's are reading more accurate. But..... around town maybe I'll still get the same bad mileage due to the O2's being ignored from closed loop mode. I mean why else would this SC pull high idle all the time when restarted and my 90 w/ 195 t-stat only does it when you first start it after its been parked for hours?

I believe my O2's are bad so when I replace them I can rule them out, but for now the way the car is I may have two problems. bad O2's and too cold t-stat. I like the car running cold since I'm paranoid about HG failure due to overheating but I also am sick of using 10 dollars a day to drive this car. I put in about 5 gallons of gas, and get maybe 60 miles before its on E again. So yeah the mileage I assume is low for this car even when driven easy and no boost.

After I switch the O2's, I'll probably put a 195 t-stat back in just to test my theory. If it all goes well and runs better, no more high idle when warm restart, etc... and keeps the temps reasonable w/ the fan on. I'll leave it and be happy. Other wise I am not sure what I'm going to do.

I used to think the 160 t-stats were good for these cars but now I'm wondering if I'm not hurting my mileage and performance by keeping it so cold and so rich. I know leaning it out would show more power than having it flood out rich. My tail pipes have soot at the ends so I know its too rich.

Anyone experiment w/ colder t-stats and fan mods like I did? Did you notice a direct drop in mileage, performance, and a high idle on restart when warm like I did? My car just feels too slow for the mods it has. I mean I have trouble racing some cars I should just embarass. Makes me want to get nitrous or have a chip burned for my car but I think I better find out the cause of this running rich problem first. A $350 dollar chip might be a waste of money if its burnt to correct this problem that I need to fix first. So I'll see what I can do with it first and then maybe later get a chip burnt. I should still be ok w/ stock programming for now.... read my member page for my 92 if you want to see my mods. Let me know if anyone thinks I could benefit from a chip at this point.
 
hey man i was wondering if you got my pm's just wondering if you founf=d that info for i could rteally use it thanks alot wish i could help you out but i dont know much about that sorry. thanks steven
 
Scott I've never had any of those problems and I don't even have a Thermostat in my engine. I took it out 6 years ago because of an overheating problem. It is my understanding though that these cars, or any, run much hotter in slower city driving than in highway driving. Directly due to the rate of coolant circulation and wind velosity thru the radiator.

Rick in FL :cool:
 
well i know i get terrible terrible mileage partly due to it being my fault... i made a home made hot air intake... thats right it sucks in hot air instead of cold and makes my mileage crappy... also i dont even think my radiator fan works and i am gonna trip it so it turns on with the car...
 
So even without a t-stat you can start your car after its been running and it doesn't high idle?

I doubt the O2's alone would be causing that problem.

As for the highway, I am curious why it runs hotter in the highway at a steady speed than around city w/ no breeze. Even in a traffic jam it sits below N but traffic gets going up goes the temp gauge.

I still think this t-stat keeping the engine cold has something to do with my ****** mileage. I know they claim an engine will burn fuel more efficiently around 195-210 degrees. I'd like some more input if anyone has ideas I'd like to hear them. Thanks.
 
Scott Long said:
So even without a t-stat you can start your car after its been running and it doesn't high idle?

I doubt the O2's alone would be causing that problem.

As for the highway, I am curious why it runs hotter in the highway at a steady speed than around city w/ no breeze. Even in a traffic jam it sits below N but traffic gets going up goes the temp gauge.

I still think this t-stat keeping the engine cold has something to do with my ****** mileage. I know they claim an engine will burn fuel more efficiently around 195-210 degrees. I'd like some more input if anyone has ideas I'd like to hear them. Thanks.


I totally agree with you as I have had the same problems as you have with the cooling system and gas milege/performance. The high idle on restart is the only thing I am not experiencing.

I have experimented with 180 t-stat, adjustable fan switch, custom chip, and now I have returned back to a 197 degree stock t-stat with no chip anymore as well. My gas mileage has increased somewhat. Now I usually get about 230 miles to a tank before I have to fill up. Mostly city driving. I have a 94' and I think my tank might be a little smaller than yours.

I also don't understand why it runs hotter on the freeway with all that air blowing in but in the city it runs cooler?? My temp gauge is usually all over the place but with my recent change back to stock tstat it maintains the temp right in the middle of the gauge for the most part. If I turn on my A/C or Defrost, it stays in the lower half of the gauge because it turns on the electric fan.

Right now I am battling a leaky radiator hose that I can't seem to stop leaking for the life of me! I am going to try new hose clamps and a new hose from Ford. Too bad they are $35 bucks.
 
Scott, you mentioned having a 160* thermostat and your cooling fan is running all the time? It is logical that this would certainly be what is causing at least some of your symptoms then.

Around town, the SC engine compartment experiences lower airflow from the front. In a stock SC, this means the intercooler and radiator will not release as much heat from the air charger and coolant as they would on the highway with significantly greater airflow from the front of the car due to extended high speeds. The result is that a stock engine driving around town will heat up the cooling system from combustion until it becomes necessary for the cooling fan to increase airflow through the radiator beyond that which is available at lower speeds or short high speed drives. As you know, the computer determines this is necessary at about 220 degrees-before-thermostat coolant temperature.

In your SC, the cooling fan constantly running means that the radiator is constantly experiencing the greater airflow it would normally encounter on extended highway driving. This means it is transfering a greater amount of heat from the coolant than what would be encountered in a stock setup. In addition to this, the thermostat is opening at a lower system temperature allowing the radiator to cool the coolant sooner than normal. The resulting effect is an overall cooling system with significantly more heat transfering ability from the combusion chamber than normal.

I have heard both that the computer will stay in open loop mode when the engine does not reach a certain temperature, and that it has a timer which will cause it to eventually default to closed loop operation. I do not know which it will do.. but I would logically assume that even with a timer it would stay in open loop longer than necessary.

In either case, I do not believe it is necessary for your computer to stay in open loop to run rich from an engine which is too cool. If the cooling system is able to lower the combustion chamber temperature enough, the cooler temperatures of the cylinder walls and other interal metal parts can change the way fuel atomizes and cause carbon buildup. This process causes more fuel to be added to allow normal combustion. This is similar to what happens in a cold engine, hence one of the reasons for a richer programed fuel mixture on a cold start. I certainly think that your cooling system has enough cooling capacity to cause these types of symptoms.



As for running warmer on the highway than around town, several things come to mind.

First, as you said, coolant is probably circulating through the radiator faster than heat can be exchanged. This is especially true if you have replaced your radiator with one that uses copper tanks and a brass core. The rate of coolant flow through your radiator is greater than a normal stock SC due to the Tstat.

Next, even though temps are lower w/ the fan on for highway driving than if it were off, air flow through the system at those speeds has changed because the fan is on. The fan is not as efficient as those highspeed headwinds and it is changing the outside airflow so it is not beneficial, even perhaps a hinderance. To sustain highway speed, your engine works harder than it does in town. Thus, with only the fan to cool it rather than high speed wind, you notice a temperature increase.

Lastly, does your 160* thermostat have a hole on top like the factory unit? This weephole exists to bleed extraneous air from the system, and many aftermarket units do not have one. Of course, air inside equals less cooling capacity which could also show up on the highway.



So to sum everything up, I think these could easily be the reasons for your car running rich. Bad O2s could also certainly cause this, and a decrease in gas mileage. Perhaps before replacing them, you might consider dropping in a stock thermo and shutting your fan down for a while to see if a difference occurs.

If a difference does occur, I think you would benefit from leaving the stock Tstat, reprogramming your ECU to turn the fan on sooner or simply operating it manually like you have been, and adding a water wetter product to your cooling system. In my experience and from the reference material I have found, these products can drop our cooling system temperature 30-40 degrees and promote more even heat flow in the heads. This would help the headgaskets perhaps as much or even more than your current methods.

Hope that helps!

Also, that was a lot of typing.. If any of the more knowledgeable members on these topics should happen across this, please correct any anomalies you might find in my understanding of things!
 
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You wont be in closed loop mode...However you will be running richer...Car will think it hasnt warmed up yet....Shouldnt go lower then a 180 stat
 
Hotter with fan

I have my low speed fan on a switch inside the car.

When I'm on the highway doing over 80 the fan actually makes the engine run hotter. It's easy and immediate to see when I turn the fan on and off.
I'm assuming it is not spinning fast enough to equal the airspeed of my car at high speed.

cheers
Bob
 
actually, yes you are right scott.

There's a parameter in the EEC called "ECT To switch to base table". On most calibrations for the super coupe the factory parameter is 180. That means if the ECT is below 180 it will go to the pre-defined fuel table (rich). So even with a 180 degree stat you will often have times where you hit that fuel table. It was intended to work correctly with the stock thermostat. So if you have anything less than a 190 you may suffer some fuel economy problems with a stock PCM.

The fix is easy, lower that value to 150 via a chip or EEC tuner, or put a 190 in.
 
It is my understanding that regardless of closed loop, or open loop, the EEC-IV is using the coolant temp in it's decisions on injector pulse width and timing. And if your Oxy sensors are not every showing rich, you can bet the EEC is likely running things rich when in Closed-Loop mode. I don't believe it will try to get the engine to show rich on the oxy sensors, but it should richen up the mixture to the outside edge of it's fuel curve. Simply because it's not getting anything to tell it that it's too rich.

From what I've read, the warm up cycle is more to get the oxy sensors and the converters up to temp than it is the engine. Our sensors are heated, so it's not likely to stay in cold startup mode very long. And yes, that mode is on a timer.

I'd certainly start with new oxygen sensors. I'd also disable the override of the engine fan. Then see how that goes.
 
Scott Long said:
So even without a t-stat you can start your car after its been running and it doesn't high idle?

I doubt the O2's alone would be causing that problem.

As for the highway, I am curious why it runs hotter in the highway at a steady speed than around city w/ no breeze. Even in a traffic jam it sits below N but traffic gets going up goes the temp gauge.

I still think this t-stat keeping the engine cold has something to do with my ****** mileage. I know they claim an engine will burn fuel more efficiently around 195-210 degrees. I'd like some more input if anyone has ideas I'd like to hear them. Thanks.


With the 160 you maybe getting too much flow through the radiator at high water pump speeds. The coolant may not stay long enough in the radiator to dissipate the heat before going back into the engine. I have heard of this happening with people without thremostats.


Jerry
 
interesting

pressure versa flow .....back to high school ....cooling system needs pressure ..the more pressure ....the higher the boiling point becomes for the coolant ...the more anitfreeze mixed with water ...within reason ....the high the boiling point again ...and with this pressure .. coolant can can absorb more heat and the more it transfer it out the rad ....running a 160* t stat may not raise the working pressure enough ...for the transfer of heat out of the system ...as a thought you may want to run straight water ...lower the boiling point and make more pressure in the system...dave
 
Do not run straight water unless you really want to replace all your cooling system parts. Corrosion will kill them all.

I run a 160 thermostat in one of my cars. However, I do not run the fan all the time. When a thermostat has an open value of 160, it does not fully open until almost 180 degrees therefore I set my fan to come on at 180 degrees when the thermostat is fully open. I do not have any mileage problems and the temp gauge usually stays rock solid at about the line below the N (my real gauge reads 180-190 at all times). - Well, except for when we were running fast in the high desert. Then at a 90mph cruise (3100rpm) and 108 degree outside temps it climbed up to 210 deg.

However, remember that the stock gauge is very innacurate and each car will read differently. For example I have a stock SC whose fan comes on at the N and another the stock fan comes on at the R.

No car runs best at 160 degrees, and if you are seeing any black smoke then that would be bad. I get 340miles on a tank (new style tank) with the Cougar running 3.55 gears on the highway. Well, unless I'm running with Kurt K at 100mph+ for 4 hours. Then I get about 250 or so. :( :cool:
 
I agree somewhat

Sweet90SC said:
Scott I've never had any of those problems and I don't even have a Thermostat in my engine. I took it out 6 years ago because of an overheating problem. It is my understanding though that these cars, or any, run much hotter in slower city driving than in highway driving. Directly due to the rate of coolant circulation and wind velosity thru the radiator.

Rick in FL :cool:
i have no themostat only a 1/2 s.s. washer fitted in the gutted out themostat. It has a 9/16 opening .also cut 14 wire low speed fan runs all the time..only in winter it is not running...I get 16 mpg city & hwy :confused: :eek: ;) :cool:
 
I wondered also why my cooling system has little pressure even after a long drive. I thought the head gasket was leaking. Maybe this all revolves around my t-stat.
 
Scott...

I don't think this was explained correctly yet.

My '95 will go closed loop in about 30 or less seconds from the start regardless of the collant temp. I tested this with a code/computer reader. This issue is you your computer does not go into 'learn' mode until a much higher temp than 160 F. I think it is around 180 F. This means that what ever your EEC has learned previously through the adapative process will never be updated. If you pulled the battery during the tstat install, your eec is stuck with the basic (safe) curves. While your O2 sensors are used in closed loop, they will not help to update the fuel curves in the eec. No adaptation.

I have several 160 tstats that I never installed for this reason. I will put in a 180 at some point though. With a switch on the rad at 190 or so, I hope to get the eec into the learning mode.

One thing you do get from the cooler temps is more spark advance. Your spark advance is determined by the coolant temp (among other things). More spark = more power if you aren't detonating.

Because you lose more heat through the cyllinder walls at lower coolant temps, your economy will be lower. Think about it. More of the heat from the fuel burn is lost to the engine with the cylinders/heads at a lower temp. This means less heat goes into power. Make sense? Combined with the base (unlearned fuel curves), your mileage will probably suck.


Hot Rod Joe

P.S. Just read the head gasket novel and saved it to my hard drive for future reference. Great Post!
 
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