Tips on doing motor mounts

quick35th

quick35th

Registered User
Ok, so I am going to replace my crappy old motor mounts with solid rubber ones from SCP this week. I already started to take apart the motor today. I got off the pass. asessories bracket (A/C, jackshaft pulley etc.), fan shrought, intercooler, SC top + upper intercooler tube, intake tube, coolant reserve box, and I think that is it. I got stuck at the power steering pump. I guess I need to take the pully off and unbolt the pump from the bracket, then loosen the lower intercooler tube to get the driver side bracket off. Then I have to jack the car up and then jack the motor up, then I can change the mounts.

Is this the right way? I have read many post on this, but I wanted to get some expert oppinions and also wanted to see if anyone had any hints or tricks of the trade secrets that they could let me in on so I can get this thing done in time for this weekend's autocross event.

Thanks!
Shane
 
I did mine with the motor out so wait for someone who has done it, but I would say that sounds right. It seems like I got my lower tube off without removing the PS pulley, but maybe not.
Good luck
 
installing motor mounts.

hi, i just did mine this week while i'am doing the head gaskets. i did two other sc's from the bottom last summer. i'am in california, if you want to email me your number and the best time to call (i work 6:00 pm to 6:00 am PST) i can call your from work if you back east. bob (zaldain@aol.com)
 
quick35th said:
I guess I need to take the pully off and unbolt the pump from the bracket, then loosen the lower intercooler tube to get the driver side bracket off. Then I have to jack the car up and then jack the motor up, then I can change the mounts.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm doing now. I read all the "...did it all from above" and "...did it all from below" procedures and realized I couldn't do either one of them. My process involves some of each.

Taking off the P/S pulley made removal of the accessory bracket SO easy. Once the bracket's out of the way, you can just move the pump around so you can work. I highly recomend it, despite having to buy a special tool for the purpose..

Getting the motor-to-mount bolts loose is tough. There's very little room, no straight shot and they're TIGHT. ...at least mine were. If Ford would have been kind enough to stamp one large hole (per side) in that crossmember, we'd all be better off.

My problem right now is alignment. The new mounts have a slight twist to them making bolt-up rather challenging. ...but it was also getting dark after a LONG day when I got to that point. Hopefully, it will be easy when I'm fresh.

Good luck,
Keith
 
Hey Hockeydad2, sorry to hear you had to do this so many times but see that your located in san ho. Where abouts? Im asking b/c I need to replace my motor mounts and havnt meet any fellow sc owners in cali. You wouldnt be interested in helpin a fellow scer out? I know i can take it to a shop but learingin some info and hanging out with some new people can always be nice. Ill bring the beer and order some pizza if your down to help me get a little dirty ;) Just thought id ask, worth askin. Thanks, Zach
 
Well, I got the motor mounts in last night. Both of the old ones came out in two peices, and the new ones went in with no problem.

Now I have run into two problems: I cant seem to get the driverside asessories bracket back on. I am having trouble getting the stud at the botton if it into the hole in the lower intercooler. I dont know whether there is something blocking me from putting them togather like the PS pressure line.

The other problem I have is that I had left the windows down so I wanted to put them back up. So I started to reconnect the negative bat. terminal and it started to spark so I just thought that it was because the cable was loose but then the starter relay (I think that is what it is called, the round thing on the driver side fender up front beside the fuse box) started to smoke really bad. The motor is still mostly apart. What would cause this to happen? The two ground straps that are connected to the motor mounts are in their correct place. I am stumped. I wander if my starter relay is fried now?

Thanks!
Shane
 
Shane, i'am not sure what would cause that. did you work near he starter or starter cable, or the knock sensor shield maybe touching the starter cable? bob
 
Well I finally got done putting my motor back togather at 1:30 last night. I did fry my starter switch and I got a replacement one already installed. The reason why it fried was because of the ground strap that bolts to the back of the alternator. It wasn't connected at the time and was resting against the side of the alternator causing it to ground when I connected the neg. battery cable. I haven't started it yet, but when I get home from college today thats the first thing I am doing.

Shane
 
I was gonna tell ya take your time..Once I replaced my PS pump and after I got the whole thing back together I realized I left the pully pusher tool and bolt on the front of the PS pump shaft so back off came the IC and IC Tubes @#$%
Duh!! :D
 
Well it started fine and idled around 1000 rpm. I guess it might have been trying to relearn how to run properly. It still has a shake at idle though which is probably because of the solid rubber mounts. But now I have run into another problem. When I attached the neg. cable and it sparked frying the starter relay, it also fried the alternator too. So now I have to replace that too.

How do I get at those hard to get to alternator bolts?

Shane
 
Hi, I am about to do motor mounts also, along with new rear diff. bushins, tranny mount, and tranny crossmember mount.

I will be doing these with the motor in, anyone have suggestions? From what I read, I will need to tear the motor apart pretty babdly.

Did you replace the IC gaskets on the tube while you where in there quick35th?

I am going to be ordering parts to do this soon, how long did it take you? I am in no hurry, I would rather d it right the first time then do it again.

I am contiplating head gaskets also, the car is an 89 with about 101k on it, as far as I know, they are the stock gaskets...
 
Some of my personal tips for you...

Basically I did mine without going extremely too crazy.

Driver's side was a bit tougher, but I did that exclusively from underneath.

I disconnected the steering shaft from the steering rack and then went inside the car and disconnected the shaft from the steering column. I then pushed the shaft up into the firewall.

Then I loosened the two bolts on the driver's side collector to the exhaust downtube/cat.

With 2 swivel joints and a 9" extension, plus a 1/2 drive ratchchet ( I used a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer) I was able to get the 5 bolts out on the driver side mount. There was one, block to bracket bolt up front that I couldn't see, but I could feel it. I had to use my extension underneath the accessory bracket, but it worked. Once it was loose I pulled it out the back. I had to pull down on the driver's side exahust pipe to get enough clearance to slide the mount and bracket out.

After I got the driver's side back together, the passenger side was tough too. I took the passenger side tire off. I was able to see the mount and use my hands to get the mount bolts from the front and sides. However once all the bolts were loose, I did have to loosen the passenger side accessory bracket to get the mount to come out the front. I made sure to use wire to hold the weight of the accessory bracket with the A/C compressor on it.

I did this in about 2 days.
 
Dropped mine off at the Dealer at 8 a.m.......went to the bar......drank beer........picked up car at 4:30 p.m......paid them 3 hour labor ($195.00)......went home......took a nap! After reading all the threads on the subject........seemed like the best way out!!!!

Mack
92SC :cool: :D
 
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Mack92SC said:
Dropped mine off at the Dealer at 8 a.m.......went to the bar......drank beer........picked up car at 4:30 p.m......paid them 3 hour labor ($195.00)......went home......took a nap! After reading all the threads on the subject........seemed like the best way out!!!!

Mack
92SC :cool: :D
Click to expand...


That would be an option if I have the extra money. I am spedning 200-300 on parts to do this, I am doing the motor mounts, tranny mount, crossmember bushings, and rear diff bushings. Then, I am also doing valve cover gaskets, and water pump while I am in there, plus, I think I will re-seal my IC lines, clamp the vacuum lines, do plugs and wires. It will be a good weekend of knuckle busting.

Plus, I still have my LX I need to fix:(
 
sc0tty8 said:
That would be an option if I have the extra money. I am spedning 200-300 on parts to do this, I am doing the motor mounts, tranny mount, crossmember bushings, and rear diff bushings. Then, I am also doing valve cover gaskets, and water pump while I am in there, plus, I think I will re-seal my IC lines, clamp the vacuum lines, do plugs and wires. It will be a good weekend of knuckle busting.

Plus, I still have my LX I need to fix:(
Click to expand...

Of course you know I'm just teasing 'ya Scotty! I recently did the plugs and wires and the waterpump. I NEEDED A BREAK! I've got the diff bushings, 4 new springs and 4 new ARC shocks sitting on the garage floor......so I feel your pain needing to install all that stuff. Adding insult to injury, looks like I need a new accumulator on the ABS too. GET OUT THE BANDAIDS....here we go!

Mack
 
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