PDA

View Full Version : Wow, finishing up head gasket swap



HSKR
05-08-2004, 10:01 PM
Well, got the motor itslef back together, basiallcy just have all the accessories to put back on, hook the rear diff back up(did clutch at same time) and add fluids to be done. Wasn't as hard as I thought it woudl be from reading this forum and talking to others. Also, there weren't as many vacume hoses as what some people made it out to be. I was expecting to be staring at my motor scratching my head, but all the vacume lines pretty much just fell where they need to be and there wasn't any confusion as to which went where.

Now, I do have one question. I couldn't get my EGR tube disconnected to pull the SC off, so I used a hacksaw and just cut the tube. I plugged the exhasut side and currently don't have anything hooked to the EGR valve. Will this cause any problems on performance or check engine lights?? I have all the electronics hoked up and vacume lines. Also, the part that has the two rubber hoses running from the EGR tube to it and a large rectangular connector. What is this for and is it okay to leave the rubber hoses unhooked and just hook up the connector?? So basically I have the EGR unhooked, just need t oknow what all I need to "cap" off besides the exhasut side of things.

Tbird1712
05-08-2004, 10:14 PM
Well You may get a check engine light, but it shouldnt hurt anything, I had mine pluged at the manifold and i got a check engine light every now and then..

Shockwave
05-08-2004, 10:19 PM
You could have unbolted the EGR at the throttle body plenum or unbolted the flare nut on the exhaust manifold. Your trying to tell me neither was an option? :eek:

Well without exhaust back pressure on the EGR tube you will throw EGR codes. The PFE sensor will not see that the EGR is opening and the EEC wont advance engine timing under part throttle without EGR flow.

You have two options:

1. replace EGR tube and EGR

2. get a custom chip that removes EGR function from the EEC program.

HSKR
05-08-2004, 10:41 PM
You could have unbolted the EGR at the throttle body plenum or unbolted the flare nut on the exhaust manifold. Your trying to tell me neither was an option? :eek:

I couldn't get behind the manifold to even attempt to unbolt the EGR. Just no room back there fo rmy hands. And I tried the flare nut on the manifold and it wouldn't budge.


Well without exhaust back pressure on the EGR tube you will throw EGR codes. The PFE sensor will not see that the EGR is opening and the EEC wont advance engine timing under part throttle without EGR flow.

You have two options:

1. replace EGR tube and EGR

2. get a custom chip that removes EGR function from the EEC program.

Why does it advance timing with the warmer air form the EGR going into the manifold? Guess I'll have to live with check engine light. Also, what is the other sensor I mentioned?? It's just an aluminum sensor that hase two hoses from EGR tube going to it. Isn't hooked to the EGR valve. Is this the PFE sensor you mentioned?? If so, how does it sense the EGR opening?? I really wanted to remove the EGR valve all together, but didn't have the means to make a plate to cover the port.

Shockwave
05-08-2004, 11:03 PM
You remove the plastic cowl first. Then you will have plenty of room to get to the bolts.


Jerry

HSKR
05-09-2004, 12:35 AM
You remove the plastic cowl first. Then you will have plenty of room to get to the bolts.


Jerry

I did that, but it didn't help much. Might have been because tranny cross member wasn't in the car because I did the clutch at same time and decided to leave exhasut off until I finished heads.

Shockwave
05-10-2004, 12:08 AM
Yeah, if the tranny crossmember is not there you loose your third engine mount. If you would have supported the engine from the back you would have had plenty of room.

Jerry

HSKR
05-10-2004, 01:05 AM
Well, it's all back together and runs good. I get a check engine light after a couple minutes of cruising. Probably from having the EGR tube removed, but it doesn't seem to effect performance any.