Finding vacuum leaks?(i did a search)

S

sc0tty8

Registered User
Ok, after reading the faq, and using search, I see that I should be making more boost. Right now, I can't get it past 10psi.

After reading the faq, it says I should be able to get to 12psi.

The car idles hard, according to the faq, engine mounts, and search says cam sensor.

Another thing I seen was vacuum leaks.

How can I test the cam sensor to see if it is bad or not? How about vacuum leaks?

The cats are removed, along wiht the resonator, and some say the boost will drop, but, in a good way. I just want to make sure that the car is fine.

I notice at about 2.2k-3k revs the car does kinda make a weird noise. The FAQ section suggests head gaskets.

The car idles very hard, and virabtes. I will be doing plugs and wires, the faq section also said that if the oil filter is hard to remove, bad motor mounts, which, I belive, the oil filter has like NO cleanerance!

I also know the diff. bushings are shot, they make a clunking sound.

The car bucks hard when I go from first to 2nd, like the rpm's are not high enough, I generally shift at 3k, and there should be no bucking, infact, it does it no matter when I shift.

I would like some help, pref. with pics, I am the type of person that learns best with pics and examples.

I do have a 93 tbird lx, v8, so, I do kinda know my way around the car:)
 
Heres a little help for ya. Sounds like you have many things wrong with your sc like everyone seems to have. When you only run 10lbs boost, does kinda sound like a vacume leak. The other simtom that will go along with a vacume leak is a real bad idle. The best way to look for vacume leaks is get some carb cleaner or breaks parts cleaner and with the car running, spray all points where ic pipes cometogether and you can think of. If your idle returns and gets better, then thats the area of the leak. A real common area is right were the sctop nut and the top ic pipe come together. Also, if that fails, it maybe a broken harmonic balancer. That gave me a terrible idle, the crankshaft vibrated terribly and it even threw off my crankshaft sensor. I heard engine mounts do cause vibration and i need to change mine out, but dont have too bad of problems with mine quite yet and do have them here to change. You will be able to tell if you need to change those by getting under the car and seein how your engine is sitting. Also heard another way is to grab the top ic pipe of a none running engine and shake it back and forth, if it moves then mounts are bad, but dont quote me on that one. I would stick with the vacume leak first. Change differental bushings to poly, got myself a set for 30bucks. Really from sounds it sounds like a vacume leak with your hard idle and lack of boost. Where do you sit on idle? THats also another good way to tell. Should be close to 20hg or whatever it is. if its below that then you do have a vacume leak. Good luck figuring out your problem. Zach
 
SlinginBeauty said:
Heres a little help for ya. Sounds like you have many things wrong with your sc like everyone seems to have. When you only run 10lbs boost, does kinda sound like a vacume leak. The other simtom that will go along with a vacume leak is a real bad idle. The best way to look for vacume leaks is get some carb cleaner or breaks parts cleaner and with the car running, spray all points where ic pipes cometogether and you can think of. If your idle returns and gets better, then thats the area of the leak. A real common area is right were the sctop nut and the top ic pipe come together. Also, if that fails, it maybe a broken harmonic balancer. That gave me a terrible idle, the crankshaft vibrated terribly and it even threw off my crankshaft sensor. I heard engine mounts do cause vibration and i need to change mine out, but dont have too bad of problems with mine quite yet and do have them here to change. You will be able to tell if you need to change those by getting under the car and seein how your engine is sitting. Also heard another way is to grab the top ic pipe of a none running engine and shake it back and forth, if it moves then mounts are bad, but dont quote me on that one. I would stick with the vacume leak first. Change differental bushings to poly, got myself a set for 30bucks. Really from sounds it sounds like a vacume leak with your hard idle and lack of boost. Where do you sit on idle? THats also another good way to tell. Should be close to 20hg or whatever it is. if its below that then you do have a vacume leak. Good luck figuring out your problem. Zach
Click to expand...

I will try the vacuum leaks on the IC lines, is that the only area that is known for leaks? I noticed it looked like someone was wrenching on the coupler for it.

The idle is very hard and shakey, the car kinda vibrates, and at about 2.2-2.5k it kinda gets a diff virabtion feeling, I am guessing the motor mounts are shot.

Where did you get your diff bushings for the rear diff? I got mine from mn12performance for my other bird, they where close to 60$.

They also have the motor mounts, for 70$ a pair plus shipping.

I had planned on getting the ic gaskets from texas thunderbirds.

Thanks for the help.
 
THe ic lines are the most common place for vacume leaks. Ive heard that you should check your hoses behind you intake plenum but dont quote me on that one either. Top ic tube to ic is kinda hard too. WHats your vacume at simple idle? Its in Hg/in or somethin like that. If you tell me that im pretty sure i can help you on figuring out your pro. Also may be motor mounts. I got my mounts and diff bushings from Victor Mavalar aka SpinningWheels on ebay. He has a large ebay store and is a great guy down to help all sc people any way he can. B/f i buy anything for my car i ask Victor first b/c he usually can find the best price around. Bill at SCP says he will match any prices, ive spent alot of money through the both and REALLY like doing business with Victor. Hes a stand up guy. Diff bushings were 35 shipped i believe and motormounts were 65shipped or something and he gave me 10 off b/c he owed me that. Really suggest askin him, and tell him SLinginBeauty sent you. lol. Best of luck finding out your problem. Zach
 
I grabbed the IC line, and gave it a good shake, nothing moved too much...

I was going to do the brake claner test, but, I had just come back from rodding on her and was a bit leary of sparying something flammable on a hot motor :eek:

The hg gauge at idle reads at pry about 16-18ish, not on the 20 mark. Idles at about 500-800 revs, kinda bouncing up and down in there when it is warm.

I will wait til the motor cools down mroe and try the brake cleaner method again, and see if I can get back to the vacuum lines behind the intake plenum.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top