Next Step after changing ECT? (Over Heat Problem)

MikeKanterakis

SCCoA Member
Hey guys, after changing out the ECT sensor (electro coolant temp: sends temp signal to computer), what's the next step?

I'm chasing down a slight over-heat problem (gauge likes to hang out around the M in NORM), and getting a new ECT from Ford made the needle stick a little closer to the M than before.

So... now what? Car seems to run strong, has a slight miss at idle, but feels strong otherwise.

Coolant level is full. Low speed fan comes on. I say a little late, i.e. that's why the car is running on the hotter side of NORM, but at least the fan comes on.

Now I just want to get that needle back to the middle of NORM... Any takers?
 
First off...definantly don't trust your car's temp. based on what the factory gauge it saying. My car runs normal between R-M and halfway to the HOTTTTT mark, it hasn't overheated yet except for when I went to the track, but that was my fault pushing the car that much (overflow got FULL and leaked a little out). But generally speaking...don't base much on the stock gauges (temp and oil pressure at least!)

Nick
 
I hear you man. But I'm really wondering what the next step would be to diagnosing a possible over heat issue. I know that the ECT was a good move, b/c the needle doesn't go past the M anymore (and also, the fan comes on sooner), but I'm not sure what else would add to engine heat.

I'm testing the heat by idling the car in the parking spot (no driveway yet...), so there's no real load on the car, + I put in the 180 deg. t-stat., so I would expect it to cool relatively well.

I've yet to borrow an infra-red thermometer to check the actual temp of the radiator and gooseneck.

Thanks again for the reply.
 
MikeKanterakis said:
I hear you man. But I'm really wondering what the next step would be to diagnosing a possible over heat issue. I know that the ECT was a good move, b/c the needle doesn't go past the M anymore (and also, the fan comes on sooner), but I'm not sure what else would add to engine heat.

I'm testing the heat by idling the car in the parking spot (no driveway yet...), so there's no real load on the car, + I put in the 180 deg. t-stat., so I would expect it to cool relatively well.

I've yet to borrow an infra-red thermometer to check the actual temp of the radiator and gooseneck.

Thanks again for the reply.

If you don't have either a chip or haven't rewired the fans w/ either manual override switches or temperature sensor switchs to turn the fans on at a lower temperature, you're not really getting too much extra cooling by running a 180* thermostat. All it's doing for the most part is circulating hot coolant because the fans aren't there to pull air through an cool the coolant as it circulates. When I start to tear my car apart, I'm going to use a wiring diagram I found in another thread to rewire the fans so I can have an adjustable fan and run it to go along with the 180* thermostat.

Nick
 
Hate to revisit old threads but I am chasing the cooling problems too. I stopped at moms today to pick up the kid and the temp guage was about 210. I popped the hood and the fan was not on. I pulled the conector to kick it on cause its HOT here and I am tired of that thing running soo sluggish.

Anyway, Can you post the diagram of that schematic of the cooling fan circuit for me? Or at least tell me where it came from?

Chris
 
My car was doing the same and getting up to M, especially when I was cruising on the highway, and it turned out my air dam was gone (never knew the car had one). I built my own and ever since, I could be sitting at 120kph and the gauge barely went over the N.

I'm also going to get my spare rad recored and put it in, as I think the current one is partially plugged from garbage from the head gaskets blowing etc.

Frit
 
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