cutting tokico springs

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lostsoul74

Registered User
ok gents, time for decisions, next weekend I finally.... get the pearl coupe fixed. Newer motor to replace blown and gettin her lowerd while there. Time to finish what I started. On ebay I found ST (spring tech) springs and shocks lowering 1.5 for $330 total. And the Tokico spring and hp shock package for $370 but only 1.25 lower. Either way, it erks me to blow money just to make a vehicle at the right height the factory should of done in the first place, so 1.5 isnt enough, if i'm blowin cash, then I want it to look lowered, not just factory correct. So I need to go the full 2 drop (I hear 2 is what I can safely go without camber problems).
So heres the questions, if I go with the tokico setup, how much coil should I cut to get the appropriate drop I'm looking for (2.25 front and 1.75 rear would be perfect if possible) and is it an equal cut off both front and back (example, if I cut say 3/4 off front coil, would I guess it to be 5/8 off back to get appropriate lower and slight rake look -would probobly even out anyways once I add weight of system in trunk anyways)
So for those with the experience, how much coil to cut for ST's, or Tokico, or even Sprint (same price as ST from same seller), thanks for the help guys, I need to order very soon in order to arrive in time. thanks again.
 
You do know that you're strongly recommended NOT to cut soil springs correct?

If you cut the spring it'll make a very harsh and bumpy ride, which can be annoying as well as potentially dangerous. It'll mess up the spring rates amd make it very detrimental to handling as well.

Take these factors into account before you cut them. Also, do a search on cutting springs, I'm certain that it has been discussed before.
 
I would just try in either 1/4 or 1/2 coil increments. I cut my stock springs on my 94SC(-1.5 coil front, -1 rear). It sits just like it should have stock... Almost as low as the H&R springs, but a softer ride.
 
thanks doug, it's nice to see someone agree rather than disagreeing, went through all this last year over cutting stock, several threads later and many arguments with pro's and many mathmatical equasions later proved once and for all that cutting coils is perfectly fine and safe (providing you dont way overboard like 6 inches) so with that thanks black bird, but you should do the research yourself, you may learn a few things here and there. thanks again doug, but as for the ST's, does anyone know exactly how much coil to cut for 2.25 front and 1.75 rear from thier standard 1.5 drop. thanks for all those who have direct info to asert.
 
so how exactly do you cut a progressive rate spring and not change the attributes of the spring.
 
yes, from what I understand and whats been discussed by real pros here in the forms and else where more common on import sites you will change the rate by a very small percent. Think the way a progressive spring reacts, basicly the coil that we cut only matters when on extreme conditions and near bottoming out basically, like doing 360 turns and what not, it doesnt really affect normal driving conditions, and with the amount of coils givin, and they way they'be been tampered and treated, minus 1 coil in the least important area I would guess to only change the rate by say (guestimated) no more than 12 percent. thats my ball park anyways. Though I'm sure like i've seen everywhere on here, 20 replies will following saying it's unsafe and shouldnt be done, but then theres 20 more guys out there riding for years on thier cut ones saying no ride difference and perfectly safe, so either way, thanks everyone, I got my info I needed, going with ST's springs and shock setup for 330 bucks, and cutting 1.25 coil front and 7/8 coil rear. thanks again everyone, heard too much negative stuff about tokico, just overpriced crap I've been told.
 
It is acceptable to cut springs using a cut-off wheel or even a die grinder with a small abrasive wheel. Eaton recommends removing no more than 1 inch from the overall length of the coil. Don’t try cutting a spring with a hacksaw—it won’t work.


you can lower most cars about 2 inches before you begin to run into suspension and alignment difficulties. It is possible to cut the original springs to gain a 2-inch drop, but as soon as you cut a spring, the spring rate increases. This is due to a rule of coil-spring design that uses the number of coils and the wire diameter to determine the spring rate. Spring rate is expressed in pounds per inch (lb/in). For example, a typical front coil spring for a ’67 Camaro would be a 320-lb/in spring, where adding a 320-pound weight to the top of the spring would compress it exactly 1 inch.


Cutting a spring immediately increases the spring rate, which will increase ride stiffness slightly. But there’s more to the story. Because there is a ratio between the spring and the front suspension, the amount the spring is cut is multiplied when the spring is installed in the car. There is disagreement on the specific ratio, but our sources place it between 1.5:1 and 2:1. This means that cutting a spring by 1 inch would mean dropping the ride height between 1.5 and 2 inches. This only applies to the front suspension. Rear spring changes, either leaf or coil, are a 1:1 relationship.





That was from Global West suspension. Since they do it for a living I would say it seams pretty accurate.
 
lostsoul74 said:
so with that thanks black bird, but you should do the research yourself
Click to expand...

Thats BlckOnBlckBrd, get it right, and don't get mad at me for giving you my information. You asked for advice, I gave you advice. Plain and simple.
 
dont take it personal black, it seems anytime I post a question on here, I get a million opinionised arguements against rather than anything helpfull, so I've learned in here just nub it off the bat. Thanks Bad, that only goes to further show that in past arguements of cutting stock springs that in the end, you wind up with a safe lowered vehicle with an increased spring rate wich is exactly what you'd spend money for by buying eibach or anyone else anyways. thanks for all the info gentlemen.

ps Doug, your msg is overflowed, delete some so you can recieve, heres a bit that I tried to send you but all may interested.

Thanks doug, I was gona do stock cut last year before the engine blew and she sat for a year. You woulndt believe the arguements it started here and all the opinionated 2 cents around without thought behind. But I went even further than that and came up with a formula to do in 40 minutes flat without even having to remove anything but the tire. Simply jack under the arm to compress the spring, use small cable with cable clamps to loop around and and secure the spring in the compressed position leaving the bottom couple of coils free, release jack onto stands under frame side thus uncompressing the spring but allowing the cables to hold together and allowing you free access to bottom coils to allow for cutting. Cut, rejack the arm to compress spring again, release cables, put tire back on, let down to ground. Done. So that was my plan last year, but I got a guy here that will do the springs and shocks for 40 a tire and the springs on ebay are only 112 bucks (plus 30 shipping) and 150 for struts shocks, so my as well do it since it's gona be fixed finally anyways. Thanks alot Doug.
 
Yes I heard all the horror stories about cutting springs. But whats there to lose if you want it lowered anyway, if it turns out bad then remove and put on some H&R's. It seemed worth a try. In the end I have a car that sits right for me, rides great and was lowered for Free. I noticed very little ride difference.

A cutting wheel was used on my springs, but they were removed from the assembly.
 
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thanks bad, I guess that all depends on if it's liniar, progressive plus you have to take into account if old estimated wear differential. I came in this time asking weather to go ST or Tokico, and now it looks like i'm leaving doing neither and just saving the money for the same equasion by just cutting stock. funny how the world turns. Thats one inch of linial coil height correct Bad?? trying to picture in my head, I hear most are cutting 1 or 1.5 full coils to get 1.5 or 2 drop (depending upon front or rear), thats speaking stock, and heard (by memory, using cellular line so too slow to go back in previous post from many moons ago) 3/4 coils off eibach to achieve another 1.25 drop ontop of the given. the one inch theory isnt quite working out in my head compared to the spacing and coils I can remember people cutting and thier achieved gains. I'll have to look at it once thier in my hands and decipher the mathmatical kenetics...........sounded good.........anyways thanks gents.
 
I can send some pictures of my car lowered if you want. I have a picture of it with the cut springs fully loaded and unloaded. It is not slammed but sits just right for a daily driven sc and rides great.
 
Not trying to stir the pot but is the 1.5 inches off of the length of the spring or off of the height of the spring. I was always told not to cut the springs but have done it for someone else before. He loved the way the car looked and the way it handled.

My other question is...which company are you guys using for the shock part of the strut? Do you retain the factory firm/auto suspension selection?

SWS
 
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well i have heard both opinions , but ihave seen lots of gettho lowered cars that go bouncing up and down the road while mine goes kinda flat,
altough mine could be lowered that way because my ride is HARSH and i have 4 month old bilsteins in the forn and 5 month old LCA,s, and UCA,s , but my strut rod bushing, seems to have degraded pretty quick.......

if id were you ill go the rigth way , with this cars seems like if you save a buck today you spend ten tomorrow.
 
well opinions vary, thats for sure, and I know how hard it is to ask a question on here and just get a direct answer rather than opinions. I can say this for fact, my buddy did his a couple months ago, and get this, did them in place too. He used cable clamps and small cable to lock the spring in place, jacked up, which compressed the spring, used 3 cables and clamps to hold compression leaving bottom coils unclamped so to allow for cut, released jack slowly, then giving him room under compressed spring to cut. he got about 2 inch drop off of cutting 1 3/4 coil off the front, thats total length, and 1 1/2 coil off rear. I plan on doing the same for mine once the engine gets fixed soon, similiar dimensions, but a little less off rear due to age and sag. I know some guys buy cheap springs to save the cash, but personally, i'd rather cut stock then go with cheapies, much more reliable and hold thier wear. Also, just so you know, I rode in his car before he cut and afterwords, and currently too, and the end result was not bouncy bouncy, but very much like original, maybe slightly stiffer, since you cut some of the progressive rate out of the spring, but hey, after all, isnt that what the 200 dollar springs do anyways, theyre shorter and stiffer..... wont go any further than that other wize all hell breaks loose around here. the real ghetto ones you see on the streets that are bouncy bouncy, are usually 2 things, cheap coil overs for imports, or heated springs to give drop without the labor. But with the clamp method I seen, and talked about here before somewhere, that also cuts labor dramaticly, with same final results. I'm impressed. Anyways, choice is yours, but theres the answer to your question anyways. Cut is going to differ slightly depending upon how much sag is in original due to age, so take that into equasion too. Also, keep in mind, theres also alot of guys here that buy eibach then cut another coil off to give them then the drop they want. So opinions vary, but take the time and read every ones facts before you choose, remember to look for facts, not opinions. As for original shocks/etc. read above, havnt seen any for a lengthy time to decide how much wear goes on them.
 
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Has everyone that has cut the springs cut on the bottom? Is there anyone who cut off of the top?

SWS
 
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