sparkplugs

TwoToneThunder

Registered User
how to change the sparkplugs on a 89
these are the original plugs at 162000 miles and for those of you who just frowned i did bitch slap the original owner ive got the pass front in but i have no clue on the others let me knio

jimchiasson2002@yahoo.com
 
Plugs

Since Ron is no longer with us, I take this opportunity to re-post his procedure for a '95. Something in here might be of assistance :) Paul

This is my experience on changing plugs and wires on a 95 SC. CAUTION this job can change your life.
Suggestion::
If you have lots of money and a reliable mechanic, let them do it. Ford charges approximately $300 to do the wires and plugs. THREE HUNDRED DOLLARS< THEY MUST THINK IM CRAZY; yeah thats what I thought.
Items needed; One full day with no interuptions 1 case of beer 1 bottle of scotch 1 dog to kick 1 good friend to negotiate with you and the swat team thats trying to get you out of the garage after your wife calls the police because your having an emotional break down. 1 list of tow truck phone numbers to tow your car to Ford if you wimp out. 1 box of bandaids 2 pints of blood on call at the emergency room, due to the SC is really a vampire and it will get your blood guaranteed. 1 3/8 inch vacum hose 1 good set of tools including 1/4 in. drive 1 floor jack 2 jack stands 1 creepy crawler 1 tube of anti seize goop 1 tube of dielectric grease 1 priest and the number to suicide hotline. 1 set of motorcraft double platinum plugs 1 set of wires of your choice Step 1 get a good nights sleep and have your parts ready before hand Step 2 get up early have a good breakfast. Now the fun begins MOTOR MUST BE COLD Open the hood, so far so good, and on the 94-95 SC you can actually see the two rear drivers side plugs, not so on earlier models due to the abs acumulator pump. on the 94-95 SCs you can change the 2 rear drivers side plugs from the top, no sweat. IMPORTANT REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG WIRES INTACT WITH CLIPS AND DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. OK lets do the drivers side first, get the spark plug wires off and get the matching new wires and place them alongside the old ones and place the clips with looms on the new wires in the same place as the old ones and coat the new wire boots with dielectric grease. Gap the plugs. I recommend the gap at the closed tolerence due to they will eventually open up with wear even though they are platinum tipped and since you wont be doing them again for at least 60,000 miles. Now remove the 3 drivers side plugs 2 from the top of motor if 94-95 SC or if earlier model all three from the bottom after jacking up the front end and securely placing jack stands other the frame, you can also remove the front tires if you like, to have more room to move around underneath. You should have now pulled a groin muscle from yanking off the spark plug boots and scraped your arms and knuckles from removing the plugs.Yes I know your bleeding but the wounds are approximately 3 feet from your heart. You'll live. Replacing the plugs from the bottom is by feel, you cant see the spark plug holes. Make sure you coated the threads with anti seize goop and be carefull not to cross thread them. OK you now got the plugs in and its time to put the wires on already connected to the clips and looms as 1 complete set. What? you took them off one at a time. Oh well you can get them back one at a time in probably an hour cursing the intercooler tubes every 5 minutes and at least you can do the other side the easier way. What?, you already removed the other wires one by one from the other side, You poor stupid SOB get the tow truck number ready. Get out your shop manual and make sure you connect the plug wires to the correct connectors on the DIS. coil pack or what used to be the old type distributer, coating the boots with dielectric grease. So far its been 2 1/2 hours, your wife is pissed cause she tried to talk to you when your working and you yelled at her and dismissed her from the garage, you kicked the dog twice but dont worry dogs are great, they run away from you when they get kicked ,but all you got to say is here poochy poochy Im sorry and they will come back and you can kick them again. OK its time to break for lunch. OOPS what was I thinking, after yelling at your wife , do you really think she made you lunch? Fucget About It, WARNING do not try to eat the dogs food, he will bite you, since he aint all that happy about being kicked in the first place. OK your tired , bleeding and hungry, but you got one side completed. I hate to tell you that was the easy side. But, you have options you can still have the other side done by Ford and might only be charged $200 and get snickered at.Hell no you say, theres still a half a box of bandaids and some beer left. I got faith in you, but you might want to read the instructions on that torniquet thingy in the first aid box first. Now we come to the passenger side of the motor. Yes there are spark plugs there, its just that you cant see them. Start removing the air intake tube, the cover off the shock, disconnect wiring harnesses and move water lines and vacum hoses out of the way. SEE, I told you they were there and its my theory , if you can see the little buggers with enough extensions and universal joints, you can get to them. OK take the plug wires off that side as a complete unit with clips and looms attached. WHAT? You say you took them off one at a time too. I know here poochy poochy. Ok you got the plugs out, but thers no way to get your hand in there to put the new ones in. HARK, the piece of vacum hose. Place the top of the plug into the vacum hose and snake the plug down to the spark plug holes and you can get them started. Make sure not to cross thread them. Tighten them up the best way you can, I can reach through under the AC compressor and get the front 2 plugs. By now most of the skin should be off your fore arms and you really should wipe the blood off the motor and engine compartment before it drys. I know your almost out of beer, still hungry, not sure about supper and the dog has learned how to call the SPCA. Replace the spark plug wires, put the hoses and wire harnesses back, shock cover and intake tube and pray it starts. YAY you did it, you saved about $300 dollars, your wife is divorcing you and the SPCA is going to have you charged with cruelty to animals. Get in your car and leave now before the cops come. Wow it sounds and runs good, lets see what it will do. Hell Yeah its flying.WHAT? you ran through a speed trap. UH Oh remember all that beer you drank while working on the car. Lets See $80 in parts, $500 bond for DUI and speeding, no more wife or dog, still havent eaten. Oh well at least you wont have to do it for another 60,000 miles, maybe never if your wife gets the car in the divorce. Until next time be SCing You. Ron.
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ROTLMAO!Ain't that the truth!
Mine was $400 for plugs and
wires.My regular mechanic wouldn't even have my car in his shop.
Sent to Goodyear.the mechanic said he was going to have a talk
with his boss,then told me $650 for valve cover gaskets.
'fraid not.
 
This thread is hilarious! I have just finished doing my spark plugs, wires, and valve cover gaskets on my 89 SC and let me tell you -- Splicer is telling the truth, LMAO! It will drive a person to drink, lol. I am praying that the valve covers do not leak or I will join AA.
 
plugs

I have found the passenger side easier if you unbolt the ac and flip it up and out of the way the you can reach in through the space where the compressor was sitting. all passenger side plugs aree with in reach. just be careful with the ac lines.
 
Oh come on now boys - it's not as bad as it's made out to be. You do need to be a little creative though.

The easiest way is from underneath the car. Especially on the '89-92's.

On my '93, I can do all three drivers' side plugs from the top. On the passenger side, remove the intake tube for the front plug. Be careful pulling the boots off, especially if they've been on a long time.

My favorite tool to use is a shorty ratchet. You'll have to wiggle your hand up, but it's not impossible - unless you're hands are the size of the Jolly Green Giant and have arms like Redwood trees.

Use antisieze on the plug threads and dielectric grease in the boots at either end.

When replacing the wires, be careful not to pinch them or lay them next to the manifolds. If you're concerned about messing them up - do them one at a time. Make sure they snap on to the plug or they can come loose causing all kinds of missifring issues till you figure it out.

Yes, a few beers are helpful, but only after your done and the car is on the ground.

Good luck.

Mark
'93 SC
 
I found on the passenger side bank on my 95's that it's best to use a regular 5/8" socket rather than a spark plug socket. When putting the new plugs in it's almost impossible to remove a plug socket from the plug. No room to get any leverage. A regular socket comes off MUCH easier. I did the front 2 passenger side plugs from the top & the back one from the bottom. Only removed the intake & MAF. Driver's side, relatively speaking, is a piece of cake.
 
I just replaced my plugs (twice) a couple of months ago. (First set of plugs had one cracked insulator) It WAS a life changing experience! Anyway, using a regular 5/8" socket is a good idea if you don't put the boot grease on the plug before installation. If you do, the spark plug socket will come off after installation of the plug much MUCH easier! I did all my plugs from the top. I got under my engine and the drivers side was feasible, but the passenger side? NO FREAKIN' WAY!!! I just removed the cover for the right front ride control sensor and pulled the fuel lines over the sensor to hold them back. Then there is just enough room to still your arm in there to get to the back two. I do agree with moving the A/C compressor forward. I did that. It was easy with just four bolts. Another INVALUABLE thing to have is a BUNCH of different size extensions and get a variable head ratchet. I mean one that pivots. Believe it or not, I did NOT use any universal joints. I found them too cumbersome when trying to remove/install the sparkplugs. That's where having one of those ratchets I mentioned came in handy. Mine has a handle on it that is longer that a typical craftsman one has. I hope this helps.
 
After two times...down to one hour....GRIN

I can change my plugs in one hour on my 93. I'm very proud of this and I have a right to be. I also have big hands and forearms. For the pass. side crawl up onto the top of the engine so that you can go straight down with ratchet and socket. You must go down with each, one at a time. Each turn will be less than 1/5 a turn. Be patient. Thats for installation and removal. The driver side is easier. Take your time or expect to lose a lot of skin. GOOD LUCK!!!
 
1st time I ever did it, took me a weekend.. next time.. about 1 hour. The trick is to jack the car up and go from underneath. Use a short ratchet and tighten them to no more than about 15lbs. Thats not very much, but it doesn't take much. If you think its not tight enough.. you've got it about right. Be sure to use the dielectric grease on the insides of the boots.. thats important for the next time you need to change the plugs.
From pass side front to back, plugs 2,3 are from underneath and the back of the engine. #1 is the hardest, but can be accessed from the front underneath by the A/C bracket. If you unbolt the A/C compressor, its easier. Just don't overtighten it when you put it back on .. 20lbs tops! Thats soft metal. You don't have to disconnect any hoses, but taking the intake tube off might help.

On the driver side, 4, 5 can be removed from underneath, #6 is accessible from the top. Oh, and you won't be able to see a thing.. its all by braille and touch, so try not to knock any crud into the cylinders. Thread the plugs BY HAND before using the ratchet. A thin rubber hose, which acts as an extension, on the plug tip will make this easier.
 
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