SC won't idle or run...

b00stedv6biRd

Registered User
I was driving to work yesterday on the freeway for about 10 miles without my SC giving me any problems. Then as I was going over an over pass it started to putter like it was strugling to make it over the over pass. Then as I'm coasting down the ramp I gave it some gas and it went nowhere, it just shutdown. I pulled over and gave it break. Then when I restarted it it idled just fine, I drove around then parking lot and it seemed ok. Then I got back on the freeway and a couple miles down it cut out on me again. I pulled over in the median, sat there for a few and tried to restart it, nothing, it just shook a whole lot and then shut off. My brother, a mazda master technician, came and gave it a look over, he said the spark seems weak. He thinks it might be the coil pack or the DIS. He thinks it may even be a fuel pump? He decided I should fine some knowlegable SC guys, so here I am. I thank you all in advance and if you have anymore questions about what exactly happend please feel free to ask!

-Duane
 
Noone has any ideas?

Post anything you think it could possibly be. I need to be back on the road by Tuesday if possible!

Thanks again

-Duane
 
b00stedv6biRd said:
Noone has any ideas?

Post anything you think it could possibly be. I need to be back on the road by Tuesday if possible!

Thanks again

-Duane

Here's a quick and easy test. Unplug your MAFS and see if it will idle. If it will then the MAFS is your problem.
 
When it refuses to start, does the up-shift light on the tach come on and stay lit while you're cranking it over? If so, your crank sensor is bad; however, you should check the harmonic balancer to ensure that the main bolt is not missing. If the HB walks forward on the crankshaft, it will move away from the sensor and the engine will die or not start at all. Its also possible for the HB to clobber the sensor. If the bolt is missing, replacing it is only a temporary fix. Due to the way its made, the HB will need to be replaced.
 
The problems you describe are exactly what happened to mine. At highway speeds loss of power and cutting out, shut it down and when restarted runs just fine. I chased this problem for quite awhile and for me it was solved with a new DIS module. You can try something first though. The DIS module is a very heat sensitive electronic device that makes it own heat with operation. It is essential that this heat is dissipated. There is supposed to be a heat dissipating heat sink grease between the DIS and the mount. This grease dries up with age and heat. Cleaning and reapplying the heat sink grease may help with your problem without buying a new DIS. Don't use regular dialectric grease as it doesn't have heat sink properties. Heat sink grease can be bought at computer stores or Radio Shack. Good luck, John
 
Update:

Ok the car will start now, it idles for a little the will just die out slowly. The heat sinc is still good because it is cool enough that I can touch it while the car is idling. The shift light does not stay on when I crank it so the crank sensor is alright I'm guessing. However, my battery was strugling to start the car today, I have it on the charger as we speak. This is good because my brother and I both thought it might be something with the charging system which would result in a light spark. I guess we will see what happens when it is fully charged. I'm most likely going to buy a DIS and a coil pack anyway just to be on the safer side. They don't run very much money at AutoZone so might as well. Hopefully that will solve the problem. I'll keep you all posted and thanks for the info!

-Duane
 
Maybe bad spark plug wires

I had almost the exact problem about a month ago. The car sputtered on several occasions earlier in the year, but it would run fine if I just let it idle for a few minutes in neutral.

Finally it completely died. A local mechanic (Bloomington, IN) said that my spark plug wires were worn out, and they were shorting out. This eventually caused the ignition module, and consequently the crank sensor to go out.

He quoted the cost of parts and labor to be about $1000. I don't have $1000, and I found the cost of parts on the internet, and I could get new cables, a new sensor, and a new ignition module for around $200.

I have a couple questions for all you SC experts out there:
First, is it a good chance that if I replace these three parts I will have fixed the problem?
Second, the ignition module and the wires seem easy enough to replace on my own, by how hard is it to replace a crank sensor (can these repairs be made by someone with basic electrical and mechanical knowledge, and a free weekend?)

Any help is greatly appreciated. You can reply to the post, or e-mail me at masiemer@indiana.edu
 
indiana89SC said:
I had almost the exact problem about a month ago. The car sputtered on several occasions earlier in the year, but it would run fine if I just let it idle for a few minutes in neutral.

Finally it completely died. A local mechanic (Bloomington, IN) said that my spark plug wires were worn out, and they were shorting out. This eventually caused the ignition module, and consequently the crank sensor to go out.

He quoted the cost of parts and labor to be about $1000. I don't have $1000, and I found the cost of parts on the internet, and I could get new cables, a new sensor, and a new ignition module for around $200.

I have a couple questions for all you SC experts out there:
First, is it a good chance that if I replace these three parts I will have fixed the problem?
Second, the ignition module and the wires seem easy enough to replace on my own, by how hard is it to replace a crank sensor (can these repairs be made by someone with basic electrical and mechanical knowledge, and a free weekend?)

Any help is greatly appreciated. You can reply to the post, or e-mail me at masiemer@indiana.edu

if its your first time changing plugs on an SC youll have a fun time. ive gotten it down to about half hour.. wires add about 45 mins.
while your replacing the wires you might as well replace the plugs while your there. if you have an early model SC the DIS module has to have heat sink compound applied on the back of it. its an easy fix on early and late models. the crank sensor is pretty easy pop your three belts off and you have a pretty good amount of room. b4 you install the new one trim the cover so you can access it easier in the future..

chris

(ps i used to be a mechanic and its nature to prey on people that dont know much bout their cars.....)
 
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