sticking clutch

Jason Wild

Registered User
I have just but in a new spec stage 2 it was fine for the first 700M now it wants to stick all the time when it gets hot out as in you can not get the car in to first or it will want to start rolling forword. as well the pedal engagement (sp) is all over the place.I have just but in a new master as well I did a lot of bleding of it to make sure the air was all out.
What I want to know does any one think this has something to do with the clutch because I kind of think it does.
thanks Jason
 
Hmmmmmmmm?

Jason Wild said:
I have just but in a new spec stage 2 it was fine for the first 700M now it wants to stick all the time when it gets hot out as in you can not get the car in to first or it will want to start rolling forword. as well the pedal engagement (sp) is all over the place.I have just but in a new master as well I did a lot of bleding of it to make sure the air was all out.
What I want to know does any one think this has something to do with the clutch because I kind of think it does.
thanks Jason
My SPEC Stage III did the same thing.

Prob. 1, Had to push the pedal through the freakin' floor to get the clutch to disengage. Problem also gets worse the hotter it is.

Prob. 2, My early model Ripper hangs in neutral for about 2 sec. before going into gear.

Prob. #1

I thought maybe the increased pressure plate spring pressure was causing the lines to leak. But saw no leaks at the clutch cyclinder or hyd. lines going into the tranny. Also my mechanic had never seen a slave cyclinder leak inside the tranny.

Fluid level was not down. He bleed the clutch just to make sure there wasn't air in the lines.

Thought maybe the pressure plate spring pressure was to much for the master cyclinder to handle, wearing it out. Haven't changed that yet.

My mechanic thought that maybe the fingers on the pressure plate were bent. That's just to expensive to even contemplate right now.

We discounted a loose pressure plate, cuz you would hear that rattling around.

I doubt the clutch disk is completely worn away.

Oh Yeah, the problem partially went away after letting the car sit for a few weeks (before taking it to my mechanic). That tends to make me think of air in the lines. Over the course of several weeks, the air bubbles will tend to raise towards the clutch cyclinder.

Prob. 2.

Tranny fluid level was fine.

New brass syncros have about 3K mi. on them, & do NOT grind.

I bought new shifter stick bolts & installed them with loctite & lock washers. When I had the late model installed, the numb nutz didn't use loctite on the bolts, so the stick loosened up.

Conclusion: I still dunno if these problems are caused by the SPEC clutch, or the Numb Nutz that rebuilt & installed the late model.

It took them 4 months & 2 complete sets of syncros, to figure out how to rebuild the tranny correctly. BTW; the Numb Nutz was NOT my usual mechanic. I would have BIG $$$$ ahead if I had put the car on a roll back, & taken it the 100 mi. to my mech.

68COUGAR
 
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bleed the master cyclinder again ..disconnect it from the pedal ..so you know you are getting ..the full length of the master cyclinder stroke on the piston rod and max hydrolic pressure built up behind the pedal to the slave ...likely too late now ..but watch your fluid level ...that is your clutch disc wear gauge ..and topping the system up.. won't tell you when your clutch is at its end of service ....dave
 
Not sure if this might help, but check my post on the "Non-Tech" Forum tittled "Need Tips, (Clutch Related)" last post date was 6/18/04.. Maybe soemthing in there can be of some use....
 
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