AC isn't working... Is this going to cost me?

Broham

Registered User
I seem to remember seeing some horror posts on what a pain it is to fix the AC in these cars. All i know right now is that my AC dosn't work. Any ideas on how much it might cost me to get up and running?
 
About as much as an auto trans rebuild, about $1200. That seems to be the price I see everyone get charged no matter what type of car it is. R-12 systems it's going to be more it's about $100 a pound. R-134A is about $14 a can. Might as well do a R-134A conversion as well (about $60). If you have the tools you can get by a lot cheaper. I did the compressor, dryer, and orfice tube and flushed the system in my Grandma's Buick for about $400 total. Come to think of it that was changing the serpentine belt and a tune up as well (had to undo a motor mount to get the stupid belt out).

Jeff
 
There is no way to know what its going to cost without knowing whats wrong. As for r134 costing $14 a can, what size can? I can get it a WAl-Mart for less then $5. You first need to see whats wrong and if you have some decent abilities, you can do it yourself with minimal investment in tools. You can get an untraviolet dye that you add to your A/C system that will show where your leaks are, then you can start by fixing those. When your done there, you can put a vacuum to it and see if it holds and if so, then recharge it. Just do some research about A/C systems and once you understand whats involved, its easy to swap parts.
 
I got a compressor, drier, o rings, oil, r134a fittings (I changed over to R134a), and a liquid tube for $240 from a guy off ebay. Also had to get the main line because it had a fricken hole in it, that alone cost $110. So $350 + refrigerant isn't too bad for a whole new system.

You need to find out why it's not working - most likely the refrigerant leaked out. If the AC clutch doesn't come on when you turn on the air conditioning, there's a good chance the refrigerant leaked out. The cheapest way to fix would be to replace all the o rings and the drier, and then have it charged again. It's not too bad to do all the o rings, you just have to get all the connections. There's 2 fittings in the front condensor (very easy access), 2 large o rings that go under the fitting that bolts onto the compressor, 2 fittings on the drier, and 1 additional fitting on the evaporator. You need a set of special plastic fitting tools you can get at Autozone to get the fittings apart.
 
You can also get the a/c disconnect tool from harbor freight for like $5. There is a place here in town that can replace or rebuild your A/C lines for less than half of what new lines cost. I believe its Polar bear. Try this place for help or parts first http://www.polarbear-air.com They rebuilt the high pressure line for my 2000 Mustang GT for $35 when a new 1 was $140 and took a week to get. They had it done that day.
 
Really need more info on what is wrong. It could just be your climate control system acting up. If you have a 94-95 SC you shouldn't have to worry about the conversion to R134a. Both the a/c systems in my SC and my wife's Explorer work, but not the way they are supposed to. In each case, the blend door motor is the culprit.
 
None2Slow said:
There is no way to know what its going to cost without knowing whats wrong. As for r134 costing $14 a can, what size can? I can get it a WAl-Mart for less then $5. You first need to see whats wrong and if you have some decent abilities, you can do it yourself with minimal investment in tools. You can get an untraviolet dye that you add to your A/C system that will show where your leaks are, then you can start by fixing those. When your done there, you can put a vacuum to it and see if it holds and if so, then recharge it. Just do some research about A/C systems and once you understand whats involved, its easy to swap parts.

It looks like he isn't going t do it himself and that's what most shops charge for a can of 134
 
I agree that you will need to isolate the faulty parts and replace them with new or good used units. Most A/C problems seem to stem from a leak.

MY a/c recently stopped functioning, the compressor is to the point that the car will stall when it enguages; that is, it is almost locked. After my heater core started leaking, I believe I isolated the problem when I saw coolant coming from the plastic valve on the lower passenger firewall. I found out this valve was the drain for the evaporator core, hence coolant must have been entering a leaky evap and going out the condensate drain :eek: .

If I am correct, I will prbly need a new evap, dryer, some tubes/lines, compressor, and possibly more. Not sure where the coolant will end up or what it will do either. Since I only used a/c while carrying passenger or when extremely hot, I will likely just remove it due to cost :( .

Goodluck, I would start by further detailing the exact problems you are having with the A/C.
 
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