Ok, this taint no 5.0....and FoMoCo taint no Help.

Dahoopd

Registered User
I need help, and it isn't just psychological. I have been on here reading threads for a week asking dumb questions, reading very few dumb replies. I am new to the SC. I need some guidance and don't want a year of trial and error. I know as a Newbie some would expect me to go through the same **** everyone else has by trial and error, but my impatience is getting the best of me. I NEED ADVISE, PLEASE. I just bought a 93 SC 120K. I am doing the heads in one week. What do I need to do first and foremost. I want basic mods for now, not a new engine. I dont want to redo what half of you already may have. sorry for that. Where do I go? Starting from the heads, then exhaust, then cooling, then intake. I want to do all of this NOW in one swoop on a stock bottom end. If its too time consuming then point me in the right direction if possible. Believe me, it wont be long before I have figured out what you can and can't do. Ford told me I couldn't put an E cam and 1.6 rockers in the lame 86 5.0 motor and I did. It ran 12.99 with a stall and slicks ( *** Mr. Ford) No piston to valve interfearance. I am not concerned with the cost as long as it compliments a stock bottom end. Please point me in the right direction. That would be a kick *** thread or FAQ, " Giving the beginner, a New beginning"
Thanks for any feedback.
 
How much horsepower and torque do you want? Or how fast do you want to go in the 1/4 mile?

Those are probably the key questions you need to answer before anyone can give you good, valid advice on what to do with your engine.
 
Heads...well...I am still in the process of getting that done right, but someone can help you there...

Exhaust - I would either go with kooks headers, www.supercoupeperformance.com, people will say they are expensive, i know, im just giving some info. or go here, for the exhaust. I know he is trying to buy them, but he is selling them as well...send him an email. Or, you can get the V-6 mustang headers and modify them on the drivers side to get them to fit.


Cooling - go here, mike does some good work..

Intake - I am still working on that too...other people can help out tho..

Stephen
 
"We" do not expect you to go through trial and error however "we" do expect newbies to use the search feature to get the base of their questions answered. This will get you started and help give you a direction to go in. I as are others are always happy to help out. Joining the club will open a knowledge base of information in the members only section worth far more than the $15 membership fee costs.

Paul
 
STIEGEMEIER PORTING SERVICE
2140 OLD HIGHWAY 94 SOUTH
ST. CHARLES, MO 63303
Phone: (636) 949-2275 Fax: (636) 949-2275

You can start here for ported heads...

Swaintech.com

To get thermal barrier coatings on those heads

Comp Cams..

To get a regrind of your factory cam

Paul@BlueTongueMotorsports.com

To hook you up with some nice Underdrive pulleys, BHJ balancer and other stuff..Headers..Ported blowers ect ect

mdkracing@alltel.net

If you want to upgrade to a whipple charger$$$$$

Magnumpowers.com

If you want a front mount intercooler

Hey someone had to get him goin
 
Oh, and the stock bottom end has stood up to 400rwhp so don't worry about that unless your bearings are shot which is a good chance at 120K. Every 3.8 I've torn apart has had the rod bearings down to the copper. :eek: Pull the motor and toss in some bearings. Doesn't require a rebuild or removing the pistons. Well worth the effort. :D
 
Paul,
As my thread stated, I have been searching the threads. I am a newbie but, not retarded. I have searched the threads and no where have I found a thread that says. Use the original valves and springs. No where is there a thread that explains what to do now that I am doing my headgaskets on a bone stock car with 120K on it. My question was , what is need to begin adding bolt-ons. There are far more people on this part of the site than the "Members Only" I am sure. If I can't get a help from here what would be the point of spending $15 to bother someone else. Just my thought. But thanks for all of your input.



BT Motorsports said:
"We" do not expect you to go through trial and error however "we" do expect newbies to use the search feature to get the base of their questions answered. This will get you started and help give you a direction to go in. I as are others are always happy to help out. Joining the club will open a knowledge base of information in the members only section worth far more than the $15 membership fee costs.

Paul
 
Well, the stock springs are good to about .480 lift and about 5500rpm. The stock pushrods and rockers can be used on up to .500" lift. The stock valves can be used but they recede into the head (sit low in the seats) so significant improvements in low-lift flow can be had by going to a bigger size that sits higher in the seats. The exhausts are the main handicap to these motors. Once you see them you will understand why. A mild port job can support up to about 300rwhp with the right mods to match it. Use Felpro gaskets and get ARP headstuds. The stock bolts are stretch-to-yeild bolts and should not be reused or you risk having to redo the gaskets in short order.

That's all I can think of, and yes that has all been discussed here many times. :p :D

Check your rod bearings, they will be shot. ;)
 
So am I to assume that you are telling me to put all new valves, seals and springs in the heads when I have them apart. I am not going to put major bolt ons on the car. This was the point I was making before. Yes, you may have discussed this before, but if you read your reply you are only telling me what the stock items are good for, not that they are still good. And that anything should be done to the heads while they are out. Why would I put bigger valves in without a bigger cam and no major mods.


XR7 Dave said:
Well, the stock springs are good to about .480 lift and about 5500rpm. The stock pushrods and rockers can be used on up to .500" lift. The stock valves can be used but they recede into the head (sit low in the seats) so significant improvements in low-lift flow can be had by going to a bigger size that sits higher in the seats. The exhausts are the main handicap to these motors. Once you see them you will understand why. A mild port job can support up to about 300rwhp with the right mods to match it. Use Felpro gaskets and get ARP headstuds. The stock bolts are stretch-to-yeild bolts and should not be reused or you risk having to redo the gaskets in short order.

That's all I can think of, and yes that has all been discussed here many times. :p :D

Check your rod bearings, they will be shot. ;)
 
Why would I put bigger valves in without a bigger cam and no major mods.

So they will flow more air at lower lifts than the stock size valves do. I'm still confused as to what performance level your looking to get out of the car.

Stock, the car will run mid to low 15s. There are different mods needed for 14,13,12 and 11 second cars. Decide where you want to end up and we can suggest specific mods to get you there without wasting your time and money on stuff you don't need.

For example if your looking for high to mid 13s, it can be done with a stock long block and bolt-ons. Mid to low 13s will need a little head work and a little bigger cam. If you want 12s, you will need some good heads and an even more agressive cam. Each of these performance levels will require different supporting mods.

David
 
Dahoopd said:
if you read your reply you are only telling me what the stock items are good for, not that they are still good.
Sorry man, without ESP I can't see what condition your parts are in. I stated what the stock parts are typically "good for" and beyond that it's up to you bud. :)
 
Dave,
My ultimate goal would be for mid to high 12's especially considering these cars are a yacht. I am just lost at the start. I dont want to just take 10 grand and say give me 12's. I want to add to it little by little, but want to make the initial start correct. I am mostly concerned with the heads. I dont want $6000 heads when there hasn't been any major block work or blower changes. I also dont want to waste money on the heads and go back and do it again later. If stock heads will handle the basic bolt-ons and gains up to 300hp than thats a good start for me. If they will handle it. Than it goes back to my first question. What to have done to the stock heads"complete"? Do I order all new stock parts for the heads through Ford? I have a hook up at the dealer so the price doesn't matter. Sorry to be dragging this out so much, thanks for all of the input.


David Neibert said:
So they will flow more air at lower lifts than the stock size valves do. I'm still confused as to what performance level your looking to get out of the car.

Stock, the car will run mid to low 15s. There are different mods needed for 14,13,12 and 11 second cars. Decide where you want to end up and we can suggest specific mods to get you there without wasting your time and money on stuff you don't need.

For example if your looking for high to mid 13s, it can be done with a stock long block and bolt-ons. Mid to low 13s will need a little head work and a little bigger cam. If you want 12s, you will need some good heads and an even more agressive cam. Each of these performance levels will require different supporting mods.

David
 
That makes a big difference. So far from the experience of the members here, "mid-high 12's" requires pretty much the best of everything. You will need some well ported heads and all new springs and valves if you want to get even close to that. From everything you have said so far, I would say that mid-high 13's is a more realistic goal.

12 sec capable heads (even with all the right supporting parts) are in the $1500-2500 range.
 
Now he tells us. ;)

For 12's you're likely going to need to do something with the heads unless you run nitros.

But in the mean time you can stay with stock heads. Just freshen them up. Larger intake valves would be nice but are not necessary for 300hp. In fact, almost nothing is required to be done to the internals of the engine for 300hp. (at the wheels)

Cleaned up and ported exhaust manifolds. New, bigger exhaust all the way back. Larger injectors. Larger fuel pump. Larger throttle body. Larger MAF. Better intercooler. 10% or greater pulley size increase. A custom EEC tune. It's when you want to get over 300hp it get's expensive/difficult.

Here are some threads where similar discussions were had that I found searching:

http://sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23293&highlight=300hp+bolt
http://sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25572&highlight=300hp+bolt
http://sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9490&highlight=300hp+bolt

Oh, and another:
http://sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5972&highlight=300hp+bolt
 
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