Supercharger Porting

SC UL8R1990

Registered User
Theoretically could i port my M90 on my own? Im a patient guy when it comes down to working on my car. :D Aluminum is a soft metal so im assuming it is rather easy to port. My only concerns would be the metal shavings/dust getting into the internals of the blower. Anyone have experience taking the blower apart and porting it? Id like to do the inlet and outlet as much as possible.

Lets get some brains together :D
 
porting the blower a DIY job? definitely! so far the easiest mod i've done without the use of air tools, the blower itself comes off relatively easy i believe 3 bolts hold it to the lower manifold, M90 dissassembly is easy as-well before you start porting you want to seperate the caseing from the snout and rotors then cover the needle bearings in the caseing with duck tape. I used a variable speed dremel with a snake extension and a router to port mine so far no problems and the blower sounds sweet, ive actually ported a second caseing for a friend of mine with the same results. PM me if u have anymore questions.
 
have you got any pics on your work?


92silverlx said:
porting the blower a DIY job? definitely! so far the easiest mod i've done without the use of air tools, the blower itself comes off relatively easy i believe 3 bolts hold it to the lower manifold, M90 dissassembly is easy as-well before you start porting you want to seperate the caseing from the snout and rotors then cover the needle bearings in the caseing with duck tape. I used a variable speed dremel with a snake extension and a router to port mine so far no problems and the blower sounds sweet, ive actually ported a second caseing for a friend of mine with the same results. PM me if u have anymore questions.
 
i don't have pics and thats my only regret, i may be able to get some pics of my friends M90 i ported,overall the width of the inlet was opened up by apprx 1/4inch as well as the height and the outlet is very similar to magnum powers, apprx 1/4inch or more on each side of the triangle, as far as making more power i really dunno i figure in conjunction with high flow exhaust and intake it would yield a substantial gain, the only true way to test to see is if u did dyno runs before and after sameday.
 
:cool: A little off the topic here but SCvidar thats a nice looking Mav. just traded mine in for the SC (a little better of a daily driver) and my brother has one too. Nice to see them around especially since their so uncommon around here. Already miss it and its not gone yet. :(
 
Porting the supercharger(inlet/outlet) should decrease the air temperature coming from the supercharger a bit and slightly raise the amount of boost being produced by the supercharger..so porting does "help." It also increases pontential power output which will be evident when you do more modifications to the car(because the sc will be slightly more efficient then it used to be, so the gains from other modifications will be higher then if you had a box stock M90 on the car). The actual amount of difference it makes is going to vary according to what else you have done and how good of job you done porting the SC, don't expect a huge increase from this alone(Do not let that statement discourage you though, "every little bit helps.")
 
big bang 4 little bucks

by far the biggest gains ..was opening the SC inlet up and porting the exhaust manifolds ....I also did alittle experimenting ...which I feel now is a safe trick to try ...I coated the inside of the blower with engine enamel ...baked it in the oven @ 150 for 30 min and then let it sit for about 3 weeks to cure ..then wet sanded a smooth surface ...on first attempt things did not go well ...oversight... was the enamel did not react well to the oil being dumped into the SC from the vent line ....so it was taken all apart and redone again... this time I capped the air intake tube and put a catch can in for the vent to dump into ...my SC was badly scored up on the inside ...made about 8psi ...when I first got it ...she has a good seal on the rotors now ..making 12-13 psi normal and just about pegs the gauge when you step on it above 90 mph and take it into red zone ...5,500 rpm is about as high I will go with it ..but have bounced it off the rev limiter a couple of times doing burnouts ...all on a stock exhaust ..with no cats ...they are there ..but have blown all the guts out of them ...and rattle from hell @ low rpm....I'm very impressed ...before the car would die @ 4500rpm now the sky is the limit ..5,500 rpm I let off :eek: ..set the TV cable to shift at 5,000rpm ..though I can shift it earlier by feathering gas ...
but second gear rubber allways turns heads ...dave
 
I have never thought about this, but now my mind wants more. This is a good idea. A cheap USEFUL way to gain hp. Now, if you need me I'll be searching the boards.
 
Don't do that... The thickness of the paint severely changes the clearance on the rotors... One may have lucked out with the thickness of paint, but if you make it too tight, one is liable to break something at high RPM. Also ACT will likely go up if you make it too tight.
 
Paint will always come off of the aluminum. You need something that will bond to the aluminum. Engine enemal won't it will flake off.

Jeff
 
maybe should of used the word ..high heat engine enemal...well 500*F and the blower ...never gets anywhere near that temp ...I really wanted to use General Electric ..electric motor paint ..but could not find ...I also had a rough surface to start with ..like it had been drivin with no air filter ..for awhile..it had alot to stick to ...been over a year ...once I stopped the oil getting in and running as a dry system ..it has stayed stucked ..sure it's not OEM and going to last for 100,000 miles ..but it has big time helped ..draw more air ..through the motor ...without spinning the SC faster .... to each his own ...just sharing something ..I've tryed and I is pleased with the results ...results may very...dave
 
I finally got up the motivation to port mine today after seeing this post yesterday. I posted some pics of the port job I did on the Florida Forums here: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48241
It was an easy job, just takes patients and a lot of aluminum shavings. I ended up using a metal rasp on my die grinder to remove the bulk of the metal and then used a stone grinder on the die grinder then I finally went over all the edges with some light sandpaper to smooth it all down and finish it off. I now need to powder coat her and put her back together.
Hope this helps ya. :cool:
P.S. Thanks for the motivation! :D
 
Porting the outlet helps a lot, but the major problem with the blower is that the inlet is placed too low under the rotors. This is why the later style blower has a rectangle port and is much closer to the bearings, and makes much more power. The inlet cant be ported that large unless a lot of welding happens. And with heat, you'll get a lot of warping. This is why MP cuts the rear end off the stock blower and glues another inlet in its place. The new inlet wont warp the case, and also provides a much larger inlet. Here are some comparison pics.

433758_59_full.jpg

433758_60_full.jpg
 
I can tell you that the case can be welded,i had one welded and i ported it out.It has been run on my car and one other one and has over 2 years of use with no problems.This is just a case of someone who says something without looking into it for themselves.I have also read things and posted such info myself but i can tell you that the case can be welded.Look at my avitar!! :D
 
Welding is not a problem if done correctly there have been a few people that have welded their own SC's and plenums. The key is knowing how to weld aluminum. There are other things ya'll are missing in the pics ;).

Jeff
 

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That is the early version of my first welded and ported blower,yes it can be done.I have since made and installed a piece under the rotors to update the blower inlet to the same as a late style blower,but of course with a larger inlet. :D
 
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