Final Motor Mount Replacement

I posted a while back that I gave up doing the motor mounts and took it to a local garage in Branchville NJ.

The guy did it the first time and looked at all alternatives and ideas I copied from you guys...and decided to do it from the bottom and drop the subframe.

I didn't get the right story from him until the second time he did it. I incorrectly posted that he dropped the exhaust and a few other things....
Since I took a second car to him to do....he's improved on the whole thing or I didn't get the story right the first time. Now he says he's "got it down"
This time $277 with tax....not including mounts.

He takes off the steering column and pulls it to the side.
Takes off the starter.
Get lifts under the engine and subframe.
Using E-22 inverted TORX (female) he removes the 8 subframe bolts
These can be difficult to get off.
Lifts the engine up "just enough" and drops the subframe down to get at the motor mount bolts so that he can get them out.

Nothing else is removed from the top or from the bottom. The starter and steering column are the only things touched other than the mounts themselves and the subframe bolts.

What about a wheel alignment?

Paul

I wish I saw him do it....

Next time I'll take some pictures. He said he didn't disconnect anything on the suspension....somehow he got the subframe to come down just a bit, about an inch or two....without messing with that.

If the subframe was dropped, then most likely the alignment is off. When reinstalling it, there are alignment dowels, however, getting it 100% right is not very likely, especially if you dont have a few people helping you at the time. Just a little food for thought..... tires are usually more expensive than an alignment.

Paul

OK...I'll check on that....

Do you mean that the entire front end of the car could be conceivably cocked one way or the other if you just "threw it back together?"....that's got me a bit worried.

vettewars said:

Do you mean that the entire front end of the car could be conceivably cocked one way or the other if you just "threw it back together?"....that's got me a bit worried.

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Yes, that is what I mean. Like I said, there are alignment holes you are supposed to put a dowel into, but the chances of getting it 100% right are pretty slim. I say this from experience of installing a few front sway bars and couple sets of motor mounts that way.

Paul

Take it to Ford?

Sounds like a job for Ford. Geeze...if you walk in saying you dropped the subframe and want it "aligned" are you looking at a soak job?

Now I'm thinking that you're not simply talking about a routine "front end alignment"....the $25 dollar special.

Though a $25 special may not be the best idea, they do need to check the overall alignment. I am not a suspension expert, so you may want to get someone like Duffy to jump in on this (he only helps out in the members section though).

Paul

I've changed two sets of mounts (on my '93 & '94) and, you only have to remove those rear Torx bolts on the subframe & then just pry the frame down enough (1/4 - 1/2") to get the old mounts out. I too only had to remove the starter, unbolt & telescope back the steering rod (no need to remove it, except maybe on '95+ models, where I understand they changed it to a solid shaft), drain the coolant & remove the knock sensor & heat shield. Should be even easier to install the new 'correct height' (SCP) mounts as they are an 1/8" or so shorter.

Maybe this is the best compromise

I know the guy I dealt with took out all 8....what are there....4 in the back?

I'll ask him about doing it like that....this sounds like the alignment could be pretty much preserved.

So what am I supposed to jump in on Paul? You gave the correct answer already. And I do on occasion help out in the General Forums as well.

Both the front and rear subframe replacement procedure makes note of using the alignmnet pins (3/4" OD pipe) when the frames are initially positioned to the side rails of the unibody structure.

You know what, man? I wouldn't worry about it unless it feels off. Measure it the toe yourself if you want to make sure cuz that will be what's most off, measure from the fronts and backs of the brake rotors with a piece of wire (not string, it stretches) and see if you're in the ballpark... if the wheels point together at the front by a tiny bit, than it's likely all good. Chances are he marked where everything was located and it's all good. It's easy to do stuff like that when you have a hoist ;-)

That's pretty much how I did it when I did one at work. I just loosened the subframe bolts on one side and moved the steering shaft. I was able to get the passenger's side one out and in without dropping it but from now on that will be the way I go because it was a major pain without dropping that subframe. I have to do them on my car soon once I get the money to buy the mounts.

Can't you get the alignment checked for free?



Jerry

Duffy Floyd said:

So what am I supposed to jump in on Paul? You gave the correct answer already.

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I was uncertain if a new alignment could be properly performed without attempting to adjust the subframe itself or not which I figured you would be better versed in asnwering

Paul

BT Motorsports said:

I was uncertain if a new alignment could be properly performed without attempting to adjust the subframe itself or not which I figured you would be better versed in asnwering

Paul

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A four wheel alignment will reveal if the subframe was placed back to the correct position since all four wheels are checked with respect to each other during the alignment.