Looking for info to race T-Bird on an oval.

R

RPG1120

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Looking for info to race T-Bird on an oval.

Hello, I need any info from anyone that may have turned a Bird into a circle track car. And info on parts to show them Chevys what Fords can do at Evergreen Speedway. I plan to build a Street Stock/Bomber out of a 1991 Thunderbird I picked up. At this time it has 5 lug drum brakes on the rear. What would it take to convert them to disc brakes? Also, if anyone in the Seattle area comes across body panels in need of a little repair please let me know.
Thanks, Rod
rpg1120@aol.com
 
Re: Looking for info to race T-Bird on an oval.

Even thou you can get one of these beast to handlewith Vipers, ect.. it's costs a fair coin...

Bracing is #1 thing to do.. and since you are dedicating this car to race only.. ROLL CAGE!!! From Front `frame rails' to rear `frame rails' and pick up the Rear shock AND spring areas.. <or least put a decent `X-brace' behind the rear seat floor pan is known to crack there>

Tie all the front suspension together <Johnny Langton on TCCoA makes a decent setup> and even on a daily driver helps like 100 % :) Subframe connectors (JL pieces too) and try to tie the upper rear control arms together <some sheet metal `customizing' may be needed :) >

Also drop out the rear subframe, weld it all up (all butt/overlap seams) and do the same for the front <I've noticed mine is starting to crack now <shudder>> But i do love coner carving andit does stress alot of pieces in these cars..

Hmm what else.. H&R springs, Koni Adjustables, 1 3/8" sway bar front/rear with Custom Adjustable end links, 17x8" wheels, 225/45 at all corners.. '93+ spindles with 4 piston 13" brakes.. and custom brackets and 2 piston calipers on 12" rotors in the back <handbrake? Ahh piece something together>

Hmm listed the stuff i want to do with my car :)

what are you thinking of for a power plant and tranny?
 
Thanks 91XR7 on my T-Bird Street/Stock Project

Thanks for the info, glad to see that I will be getting some insight from those that have been in and under these Birds. The car will be getting completely gutted and a full roll cage. Thanks for the info on the seams and such. About your suggestions on the brakes, will all the 93+ parts just bolt on in front? I will need to change the rear from drum to disk and will need to know the best way to do this. Remember that the parts must be OEM. The tires are a spec tire so that isn't a concern. As far as power I am still trying to decide. With the handling that I think this car will have I may try and stay light. Either a 302 or 351 Windsor will probably be the choice. Although I do like the idea of a Clevor!
Thanks again, Rod
 
Re: Thanks 91XR7 on my T-Bird Street/Stock Project

'93+ spindles are bolt in..you just need the spindles, and all related brake hardware, and sway bar endlinks..

Rear disk conversion?
Rear hubs,
Rear calipers
Rear X-over Hand brake cable
Discs <DUH!>
and lines

and if they need to be OEM..

Tokico drop springs <OEM Factory option> Tokico shocks <Who yah think made ARC shocks for a S/C?:) Sway bars? Hmm s/c sway bars.. SVT-bird wheels.. (17x7") OEM, there where gonna be on a late '97 T-bird before the MN12 line was killed

Also 13" brakes are OEM on the mustangs <cobra/Bullet> so does that count? :)

and for better handling, you want lighter unsprung <?>weight <suspension parts being forced down?> so get a set of Mark8 Rear lower control arms, <cast alum VS Cast iron>

Give me till after work for the sway bars.. i think s/c's front <early> with a V8's rear..
 
Re: Thanks 91XR7 on my T-Bird Street/Stock Project

i would go 351 since a 351 dosent weigh much more. also you could stroke it to 408 or 426 with a popular kit.
 
302 vs 351

Unfortunantly we can not stroke the engines in this class. Although if it is a factory part you can interchange the parts. Like putting a 400M crank into a 351W block. I have heard of putting the Australian 302 crank into a 302 block will increase the cubes.
 
Re: 302 vs 351

ok sorry i didnt know that. what is the difference between the ausie 302 crank and the american version...both need a stroke of 3.0 to be a 302?
 
Re: 302 vs 351

Not sure what the difference is, just saw in the Ford parts interchange book I have that Ford Performance Solutions has a stroker kit that has an Australian 302 nodular iron crank as part of the kit. The kit makes 326 cubic inches, they may have just offset ground the crank. (not sure, still researching )
Thanks
 
Re: 302 vs 351

Hmm 302 vs 351. I'll take the 302, it'll rev better then the 351, unless you machine down the mains to 302 spec.. and so forth..

but there's alot of trick ideas of getting cubes fromstock OEM parts..
Ford 315
stroke 3.076
Rod 5.205
stroked 302 crank, Pinto rod

Also do the parts have to be OEM Ford? :) since there's neat ass combos you can do with Chev/Mopar rods and pistons

Ford 375W
Stroke 3.68
ROD 6.13
stroked 351W crank, Mopar rod/piston
 
Re: 302 vs 351

Looks like we can use any rod or piston combo. I need to talk to the tech people this next weekend and see just what I can and can not do to the crank. All I am sure of at this point is that they do not consider it stroking an engine when the Chevy guys drop a 400 crank into a 350 block. Just how much work they will allow on a crank to make it work I need to check out. Here is how they state the rules when it comes to the crank:
CRANKSHAFT AND HARMONIC BALANCER
53. Only standard steel or cast iron production design crankshafts permitted. If after-market crankshafts are used, they must be identical in appearance and construction as an OEM crankshaft. Stroke may not be increased or decreased. Balancing is permitted.
A. Counterweights may be polished, but they cannot be edged, undercut, or drilled to lighten the crankshaft. Main bearing journals or rod journals may not be drilled to lighten the crankshaft. No lightened crankshafts.
B. Stock harmonic balancers or fluid-type harmonic balancers are permitted.
Here is a link to the complete rules for the class that I am building the car for, www.evergreenspeedway.com/02brules.htm

Thanks again!
 
Re: 302 vs 351

Also sounds like u should abandon stock balancer
and go for the BHJ solid billet steel one. Good luck!
 
Re: Street Stock Buildup

91XR7- What is the diff. between the 91 and the 93 brake parts? As far as using the 13" brakes, i do not think that can be done with our 15" limit on wheels.
 
Re: Street Stock Buildup

the spindles on the 93s are different which makes it so you can swap in cobra 13" rotors, since you need 15" wheels that will not work as you need 17s to clear.
 
Re: Street Stock Buildup

As Nick said.. BUT!!!

with the '93 spindles, you can run as wide of a tire/rim as with the '89-92 spindles unless you get the correct offset <which isn't easy to get>

BUT! i've heard of people getting the 13" brakes to work with 16" wheels.. But You have choice your wheels Wisely and machine <IE grind> abit of the calipers...

Also you can get 12" Baer kit, which should work on 15" rims? <or are they 16 minium?> or a dual piston 11.57" setup.. or even the stock 10.87/dual piston and X-drilled rotors <which people say is like a good 25% better then stock> andyou can use all OEM parts <minus Rotors, unless you find it fun drilling/balancing them :) >
 
Re: Street Stock Buildup

So just what is the difference between the 91 spindles and the 93+ spindles?
Thanks again
 
Re: Street Stock Buildup

Ahhh more brake options??

'89-92 the caliper slides on `tangs' that's part of the Spindle, which were as '93's don't...
 
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